Have Toyota Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello. Welcome to Just Answer. Please allow me to assist you. Let's start wioth what does not work. Then we will go thru this one wire at a time. Be advised that thsi is going to take a while.
Does the engine start?
The first thing we need to do is verify how many WHITE with a BLACK STRIPE wires you have.
Would you happen to have a DC volt=ohm-meter?
Traditionally, all of the wires that are GROUND wires are White with a black stripe. The silver dots have no importance. The only exception to this rule is engine ground wires form the computer. Those are solid brown. But solid brown wires could be elsewhere. ....
I caution you on any wires that you bare the insulation and splice together. Taking two wires and twisting them together creates a weak spot where they join. I would hope you have access to a soldering gun to do all of this right. If you know how to properly splice wires, good. If not, I can explain that too.
Are all of the wires that are disconnected in the radiator area?
Here are some colors (stop me if you already know this):
LEFT Turn Signal: Green/black stripe
RIGHT Turn Signal: Green/Yellow Stripe
Radiator fan motor: Solid Blue
AC Fan Motor: Black with red stripe and solid Red
2 SOlid Black wires: there are power into the panel from the 100 amp ALT fuse main buss. This powers the panel with the ST relay in it. Same panel, power IN, is a Black with a red stripe from the 50 amp HTR fuse main buss. This powers the Engine Main Relay socket
Whilst you do that, let's talk splices. You do not want to take two wires side by side and twist them together.
Take one wire in each hand. Match the wires 1/2 of the way down the uninsulated part. Then mate the wires to form an X. The wrap each of the wires (the top of the X back onto the other wire). Keep wrapping the wires around the other wire. In other words, they wrap back onto each other. You do not want 'bunny ears' twisted together. One the X has been achieved and the wires are properly twisted, the wires should look joined together as if just the insulation was missing on a single wire in the middle. Then solder and tape. When soldering, heat the wire with the gun. Then touch the solder to the wire. Do not touch the solder to the tip of the gun. That cools the wires and you get a cold solder joint that will break or will not adhere the wires together. Never use crimp connectors unless you really have to. And, when you do, solder and tape them too. .
OK. Got it. I assume all of these wires are in front of the radiator area, and move from the passenger side fo the car to the driver side. Yes?
If you havd a voltmeter or a test light, we would be in business. The Black/red wires feed power. 2 wires leave thew fused side of the 100 amp ALT fuse and feed the fuse panel under the dash. Another Black/Red feeds the engine main relay stationary contact. Green/WHite are the horns
There are a few other wires that you have listed that could be one thing or they could be another. I am hesitant to tell you exactly where they go because I cannot see the car. Your best path at this point is to strip the Harness back so you can trace all of your wires from their destination across to the driver side. Then I can tell you where they go,
Red/yellow: Coil side ot DIM relay Socket 3
Red/Black: Stationary contact side of DLT relay socket 1 this goes to the headlamps
Thick white/Black: Most likely goes to the daytime running light resistor (not sure) To Ground
White/Black: DRL relay 4 moveable contact socket 2 To Ground
Red #1: Coil side of DRL #4 relay socket 2 leads to Daytime running light module in the car
Thick red: not sure
Red #2 not sure
Thic k red/Blue: Most likely drom socket one (stationary contact of the DRL #4 relay to the headlamps (not 100% sure)