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Dj
Dj, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 1909
Experience:  ASE Master Tech, 30+ years in automotive repair.
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I have a '95 4runner that has been sitting all winter. A few

Customer Question

I have a '95 4runner that has been sitting all winter. A few weeks ago, I jump started it and drove for just 10 minutes...everything was fine. I tried to jump it this weekend after some very very cold weeks (-30F) and it wouldn't start and the battery looked terrible (bloated, corroded, etc). So I went and bought a new battery and put it in. When I open the drivers door, the buzz from the key being in the ignition sounds, the headlights turn on, but there is no power inside. No dome lights, no radio, no dash lights, no clutch start cancel, and the ignition seems to not work either because there is no clicking, no turn over, NOTHING! I checked fuses and replaced two 15's in the engine but don't know how to check the relays...should I just bring them to CarQuest? I also know the battery terminal cables are new. I heard maybe it is the cable going from the battery to the fuse box?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Toyota
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It's a 1993.
Expert:  Dj replied 1 year ago.

Hello and thank you for trusting us with your question. I'm DJ.

There are three large scale fuses in the fuse box under the hood. They are much larger than the plastic colored ones.

They are labeled AM1, AM2 and ALT. It's likely that at least one of those fuses is blown.

These are bolted in, so they are harder to change. You can look in the window on the top to see if the bar inside is burnt through or not.

Do you have a volt meter or a test light?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
There a little corrosion and have been for years. Nothing's changed. I have a test light. Do you suggest to change them all out?
Expert:  Dj replied 1 year ago.

Nope. We're not going to change anything until we know it's faulty.

With the black lead from your test light on the negative post of the battery (not the sheet metal, not the engine) and the key in the RUN position, check both metal lugs on the DOME fuse and the EFI fuse and see if the test light illuminates.

Then check the ENGINE fuse under the dash on the left side.

Here's a picture of how to test the fuses.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/245

Both sides of the fuse should illuminate the test light. If only one side lights it up, then the fuse is bad. If neither fuse lights it up, then that fuse isn't getting power.

So please check the EFI, DOME and ENGINE fuses. This will tell us if AM1, AM2 and ALT are good or not. EFI and DOME are under the hood. ENGINE is under the dash.

DJ

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The 80 amp alt fuse was blown. Put a new one in and instantly blew. (Bought extras for that reason.) unhooked alternator and fuse will not blow now. Truck cranks up now and everything is normal. So question is, should I test alternator or buy a new one? I do kno if you were to hook main power to alternator the 80 amp fuse will blow. Also I got a oil leak coming from the dist. cap area which is right above alt. So I'm assuming all the oil in alternator shorted it out. Please let me know what you think about it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'm also going to finally fix oil leak while I'm here fixing this.
Expert:  Dj replied 1 year ago.

If the wiring isn't pinched anywhere, then there's an internal short in the alternator. The only choice is to replace it with used or rebuilt.

You're right, the oil leak cause the problem by dissolving the insulation on the windings.

DJ

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
10-4. I'm out of state now and will be for 14 days. When I get back home I'll swap alternator out and fix oil leak. If it does it again after new alternator I'll let you know.
Expert:  Dj replied 1 year ago.

Great. I'll be here.

DJ

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