Hello - here's some more data that might be of interest to you. First of all, I disconnected the battery cable and cleaned the 2 connectors on the Nippon-denso distribution box behind the passenger headlamp, and then I took the car for a morning 30 mile ride - no failures whatsoever. So, I thought I had it. The same day - but in the afternoon when I had the A/C on because it was hotter, the ABS failed fairly often, sometimes when just going straight. Huh?
Today, I measured the car's voltage (via the aux power plug) to see if I could relate a dip in the voltage with the ABS failure - Nope!
This afternoon, I took the car for another long ride with the A/C off - Perfect! Shortly after I switched the A/C on - another failure!
Taking it one step further, I tried driving the car with the A/C off and just the blower on and this produced another series of random, intermittent failures, almost immediately.
So - here's what I think might be happening: The car has 102K on it and during that time either the A/C or the heater was on which means that the blower motor was running, right? While the motor is producing no audible signs of mechanical duress, I noticed that it does drop the system voltage about a volt when it's running, so it does suck up some current.
The blower motor is a DC unit that has - I would assume - brushes within it, and after 102K miles these brushes may be quite worn.. It's within the realm of possibility that this motor is producing pulse interference (i.e. sparking) on the 12 volt like that feeds it which is also in close proximity to the ABS controller, causing the ABS controller to produce a false diagnostic code.. That's my hypothesis anyway.
So, I'll be ordering a new motor to see if this makes things better, and will keep you posted. I don't have the enthusiasm to run the car with my scope hooked to the running motor. If this works, it's just an academic solution which I'll share with the local dealerships. If not, I'll just keep looking.