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Skyvisions
Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 12722
Experience:  Toyota Master Diagnostic
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tacoma: 98 TacomaXXXXX 2.4 4 cyl 5 speed manual.

Resolved Question:

98 TacomaXXXXX 2.4 4 cyl 5 speed manual. Battery indicator light on during early morning commute, headlights needed. Was able to charge battery for approx. 6.5 hrs. drove home 1 1/2 hrs. installed new alternator, charged battery, tried to start, nothing, dead. Have had intermittent problems with starter solenoid so changed starter. I am somewhat of a shadetree mechanic but not good with electrical. Both alternater and starter have 1 electrical plug in connection and a single post with single wire. I do have power to the starter (tried with test light) but have no power inside cab - heat, blower, tail lights, turn signals... I DO have headlights and horn and warning buzzer. I did have (about month ago) have a shop replace the ignition switch. Pulled off dash panel and that connection looked to be fine. Do not know what to try next. Stuck and am 30 minutes from nearest garage. Any ideas would be great, Thanks, Bo
Submitted: 6 months ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 6 months ago.
Hello, thanks for trusting me to help you with your vehicle today. I have over 30 years of Diagnostic experience. I look forward to working with you. At any time did the post going to the alternator get touched to ground or the cable even for a second? Do you have a volt any reasonable knowledgeable of how to use it? Is the warning light for the battery charging system and check engine light coming on when the key is in the on position?
Customer: replied 6 months ago.


Yes, the OLD alternator did get touched for a second and a spark came off the post. No I do not have any indicator lights when key is in position. I do have a meter but do not know how to use it!

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 6 months ago.
Do you have a simple test light?
Customer: replied 6 months ago.

yes I have a simple test light

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 6 months ago.

Connect the clamp of the test light to the negative battery post/cable then probe the large cable/single post on the Alternator. Does it have power there? Probe the positive terminal of the battery to make sure your light is working.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.

I already did this, the post on the alternator does not have power. yes the light is working, I do have power to the starter post. Thanks

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 6 months ago.
Okay, this normally means the 80 amp ALT fuse has blown. This is a main fusible box type fuses in the fuse box under the hood on the driver side. Remove the lid of the fuse box and identify this large square box type fuse. There is a clear plastic lid over this fuse you can pop the lid off make sure the copper band is not burned in between. If it is take a jumper wire or press the two pieces of the copper band together so that they have good contact turn the key on and see if everything lights up. Let me know how this goes.
Customer: replied 6 months ago.

Thanks so much that was it!! Are these dealer only or can I get it at a NAPA or other parts store?


You have just made the rest of my day much easier!


Bo

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 6 months ago.
You should be able to get one of these from Napa. The hard part is not over yet. This fuse does not simply pull-up out. The box has to be disassembled in order to get access to the busbar within the fuse block to unbolt the two bolts that hold the fuse in place. Unfortunately there are no written instructions for this it's like a jigsaw puzzle. Some of the sub components inside unclip and pull up or push down out of the block. You will have to release the lock clips and kind of fumble through it in order to get this exposed to unbolt the two bolts that hold the fuse into the block. Glad we got it resolved. Please don't forget to rate our exchange at three or higher.
Customer: replied 6 months ago.

Ok, don't quite understand about taking box apart. can't see how to take apart, there are 2 fuses there alt and heater, just below there are 2 bolts, I undid the bolts. The heater fuse (closest to the engine) had a blue wire going to it. I also undid the white wire that goes to a post. I can get this bar which looks like it goes next to and below the fuses to giggle but not come loose. Afraid to force anything? am I on the right track? what am I missing? can I solder that fuse back together? - Bo

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 6 months ago.
In a pinch you could soldier the fuse back together. Any excessive current would cause the solder joint to pop apart. And this would leave you stranded. Without seeing the box and I don't remember on that specific year how that module comes out whether it's a clip upward un clips and falls down out-of-the-box. Usually the fuse block has to be unbolted from the inner Fender to allow access to the lower panels to remove the clips and panels. If you can post a photograph close of the top of the panel and fuses then along the sides and bottom I may be able to decipher by looking at the photographs. Unfortunate don't have one of these handy to take a quick look at.
Customer: replied 6 months ago.

Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX took the box off the fender well, I figured it out.


Your patience is a virtue!!! Bo

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 6 months ago.
That is good to hear glad you got it. If you need anything in the future feel free to ask for me Skyvisions, in the question and I will get back to you.
Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 12722
Experience: Toyota Master Diagnostic
Skyvisions and 9 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you

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