1995 Toyota Camry LE V6 4DSD Original issue coolant leaking from radiator. Mechanic diagnosed issue caused by crack on top of radiator and hose leaking secondary bypass hose. Replaced original radiator with new radiator with new lower radiator hose and clamps, installed new therm. and gasket. Flushed cooling system, replaced manifold set and original radiator cap with manufactures specified cap. Car started overheating again after a week, this time the hoses ontop the engine [forgot what theyre called] were leaking pressure, so he electrical taped/aluminum taped them so they passed a pressure test, no leaks. 3 days later, over heats some more, and is burning the water away. Go to car, water is gone. replace water, still over heats after 4-5 miles of driving. Mechanic now suspects a crack in the head, but says we cant know for sure unless its taken apart. Bought car for $500 running fine, now overheats like crazy and Ive paid over $1200 in repairs. I would like to know if there are any other areas to be suspected or if i should give up on my daily driver. here are photos of the engine to show the 3 foil-patched areas.
HelloIf its losing water still then yes its could well be a cracked headhowever if its not then replace the thermostat in the engine. Whilst the thermostat is being replaced you might as well also reverse flush the cooling circuit (remove top hose to rad and use a hosepipe to push water into the engine until you get clear water out of the radiator hose) and top up with 30-50% fresh antifreeze. Also check that the small diameter bleed hoses that run from the top of the radiator and the top of the engine aren't blocked as this allow the air to vent back to the header tank automatically. If you still have a problem then check that the water pump impeller / turbine isn't spinning on its shaft.
You should be able to achieve this by removing the bottom hose from the engine and use a screwdriver or similar to feel for the water pump impeller blades, whilst your assistant turns the engine over by hand.
If you can stop the impeller with slight pressure from the screwdriver the pump needs replacing.
Also its possible the belt is slipping so its worth replacing its especially if the rubber ribs are cracked or it looks shiny on flat side of the belt - while its off check that the tensioner and other pulleys all spin freely the exception to this is the AC pump ( if fitted)
I'd also suggest ensuring that you've got all the air out of the system as this sort of episode can leave pockets of air trapped and prevent the coolant from circulating properly.
So check that the small hoses that run from the top of the engine and radiator that run back to the header / expansion tank are free flowing and not blocked If these are OK then remove the tank pressure cap and run the engine from cold with the heater set to full hot
As the engine starts to warm, squeeze the large hoses running to the radiator to help displace any air - all the time keeping an eye on the level in the header tank, making sure it doesn't drop below the minimum
Once the engine is up to temperature the tank should be quite full. Switch the engine off and leave it to cool
Then top up to the mark once its all cold and replace the cap
Im not sure I understood much past the first sentence, Because it is indeed still losing water. At first there was no sign of where from, so the head was suspect. Now I can clearly see and feel water dripping from under the car, under the reservoir area. My question was basically if it is still losing water, is that very likely the head crack, or openly and fairly possible it is all those other things you suggested. I can run all those by my mechanic, but its important you know its still burning/losing water.
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