Wow, drive in movie. Haven't been to one of those in a while. A few more questions that I didn't think of the other day. Do I replace all the bolts with new ones?
Sorry, 95 Accord LX with 4 cylinder non-VTEC.
How about the tensioner? Replace or use the old one?
I'm trying to visualize this operation. Won't I have to remove the camshaft, valve springs, etc. to send the head to the for milling?
Is this more complicated than I anticipated or does it just seem that way because I've never done one?
If I leave the springs and valves alone how do they do a valve job? They only remove metal from the gasket side, right?
Relative cost? Milling only happens on the gasket side?
Even with 208,000 miles I believe this is better than a can of sealant wouldn't you agree. I'll use Honda OEM parts unless you can suggest a less expensive alternative. I'm going to do this in my garage rather than my gravel driveway this time. My wife has been wanting me to clean it up a bit anyway.
It's going to be a long process. I have to work on it in increments. Thanks
I've been thinking along the same lines with electronic. Nice if I use them every day, but there's something about the click style. Snap On seems to be the standard, but for me way to expensive considering the amount of use. More for professionals like yourself. I was looking at a CDI (made by Snap On) for 126 bucks on Amazon. Also looked at a Husky and Kobalt. Links below.
I wasn't sure my 25 year old Sears DigiTork would be accurate. It's nice because I turn the dial to set the torque which I can see through a window. The end cap is pulled from the end and turned to set the torque. It snaps back for a positive grip and no chance of the torque setting slipping. I just wasn't sure if the price of the Kobalt one was an indication of enough quality for this type of job. Maybe I'll buy one of the 50 dollar adapters to check the calibration just because.
When I get ready to remove the head, don't I loosen the bolts from the outside in and turn each one a quarter turn at a time until all the bolts will come out by hand? Been watching YouTube and see that often.
One of the videos had the guy using his impact wrench to remove the bolts. He did go from the outside in, but that was a little disconcerting to me.
Is there a chance the head doesn't need resurfacing or should I tell then to do it anyway? I know they run a pressure test first.
Ivan, the destruction has now begun. Several things I have learned so far......dirty job since this engine is coated with oil everywhere!!!! I've had to move a few more things (brackets, etc.) out of the way to get to fasteners. I can't pull the exhaust manifold forward as the manual says. I have two choices here....remove the 3 very rusted bolts where the manifold meets the first part of the exhaust or remove the bracket that holds the exhaust pipe steady under the car near the first joint which has the two bolts with the springs. I'm betting the bracket and bolts with springs is my best bet at this point. The intake manifold is more challenging. I have the top four bolts off and need to work on the bottom ones next (penetrating oil is working now). It looks like I would be better removing the oil filter to get to things better also. I am also sending some photos. Only one fastener issue so far. If you look at the photo with the top timing belt cover you'll see the fastener on the bottom left. The larger part fits into the small cover which goes under the cam sprocket. This bolt was so tight it broke the plastic and would spin. The large part is supposed to have the plastic molded around it. I had to put the piece in my bench vise to get the screw out. The timing belt isn't centered. There is at least an inch of slack in the belt on the radiator side and just a little on the firewall side. Here's where I placed my jack stand for safety.
Everything is getting replaced. Good reason to do the tensioner because of the obvious drift. Is that slack on the front side norm? Slack on the front and more tension on the backside? Any tips on how to get the intake exhause off?
Just a little update. Got the intake mainfold pushed back far enough to clear the studs. Had to remove some extra bolts and I took the oil filter off. That made it easier access. I'm going to change the sensor above the oil pan in that area (I believe it's a oil sensor) and change the oil pan gasket. The lower timing cover is a bear to slide out, but I did it. It took the pulley removal tool, a six foot cheater, and my 230 lbs to snap the crankshaft bolt. It popped a good one when it gave. The only trouble I have now is the tensioner bolt. It won't give. There isn't enough room between it and the fender to put in anything thicker than a standard box wrench. Everything else is too thick. I hit it with PB Blaster and will tackle again tomorrow. I still have the disadvantage of working on my back, but it could be worse.
Which part is the sealing surface. I haven't pulled one to see. I'm assuming the oil pump has a couple of seals and it's just a remove and replace? Oh, I found there is a bolt missing. The bolt which holds the timing belt tensioner just to the left of the tensioner and near the larger of the two springs is missing in action. Oh, I got the tensioner nut off with the double wrench trick. It was really tight.
Oil pump seal the same or o-rings? Oh, I want to go ahead and add a little bonus for all this advice. I think I've been asking more than the standard fee would cover. If I add it now, does it end the questioning or do we forge ahead?
Am I looking at this correctly? I see two seals (#25 and 26). This diagram isn't the clearest for me. They don't look like they go behind the sprocket.
Ahhhh. That makes sense. I was looking for the crankshaft seal under the crankshaft heading and it wasn't there. Now this looks better.
I'm going all Honda parts for this too. I can get OEM from a place in CA. or another place in CT. I think is where it is. Hondapartscheap.com is in CA. and Majestic Honda is up north near you.
I'm also going to change the oil pan gasket. Fel Pro or OEM? There is oil all over this engine including the bottom and firewall side.
Ivan, when I do the oil pan do I need to do anything with the oil pump seals on the side (you can't do one without the other being involved)? I'm assuming all I have to do is remove the dust shield for the tran seal and remove the bizillion bolts holding the pan on.
Ivan, I looked again and kind of answered my own question. If I want to remove the pump I have to remove several of the oil pan bolts. If I remove the oil pump pulley only then it is only about 3 bolts. I assume I should only replace the oil seal for the pulley. There is a bit of oil there which means it did leak at some point. The cam shaft pulley had leaked big time. That's probably why there is so much oil down the side of the engine on that side. Can't see it unless you remove the cover. Now for the big news. Head is off. Took a cheater and 1/2" breaker. Really tight. Looks like the leak was in cylinder 3 the most and some in 4. I could go swimming in cylinder 3. There is a little oil there if you can blow it up. I'm guessing this is from the natural lubrication and the leaking seal above the cylinder from the cam assembly. They did use Honda belts at least. Intake manifold ports are really dirty. Suprisingly, the gasket didn't look all that bad. Photos to follow.
That amount of oil in the cylinder isn't a problem? I just checked the bottom of the head with a straightedge and it seems level. No detectable warpage.
The head will be checked regardless. I've gotten this far and won't get cheap. Should I use some throttle body cleaner and and clean it the best I can? Should I remove the injectors before doing this?
One of the bolts on the engine mount was stripped-the top back one behind the bolt which is a post. It's probably a grade 5. I figure if I get another grade 5 slightly longer and a slightly smaller diameter I can add a split washer and nut. Cheaper than a new engine mount.
I'm making my parts list. I'll choose either the CA or CT folks. I'll have to ask them a few questions like does the gasket come with the water pump as a kit, etc. so I don't duplicate things. I still have to take the cam assembly off.
I was just looking at prices and the rubber gaskets for the 3 timing belt covers amount to 40 bucks. Are they that necessary? I'm replacing all three plastic sections--the top and middle one due to bolt problem I had. The bottom one was scored pretty badly by the crank pulley and had a hole in it.
Most are missing altogether.
OK. I'm right about 500 bucks for parts at this point. That's not including shipping.
I forgot to send the picture of the valve side. Cylinder 1 is on the left. Don't know if this is normal or abnormal. Cylinder two valves are out just a bit. and it's still at TDC.
My suspicion is that those valves are bent. If the motor hydrolocked, that could be enough to bend them.
I was a little suspicious because everything was a TDC and they shoud be flush. I presume they would replace those during the trip to the shop.
How would the valves become hydroblocked? Overheating? Clogged ports? Maybe someone didn't have it TDC on the last belt change or valves not adjusted correctly?
Sorry, forgot about my physics from high school. So long ago.....The cylinder 1 and 2 are the lightest. Those are the exhaust valves right? In the photo cylinder 1 is on the right.
Indicative of an issue or just normal wear and tear?
When I remove the cam assembly will the protruding valves stress it on that side? Just remove the bolts from the outside in? There are 14.
Update time. I got the assembly off with a minimum of hassle. It was difficult to remove the spark plug side and I had to use a padded screwdriver and gently pry. The gaskets under the assembly stayed intact, but are probably brittle. I haven't removed them yet. The valves seated when I removed everything. Maybe someone adjusted the valves incorrectly (too tight)?? I'm looking for a shop now. NAPA, CarQuest, or a performance place I learned about today. Do they routinely chase the spark plug threads?
Why would the valves stick out? I had everything at TDC.
I didn't hear any gunshots, so your dog must still be alive....I'll keep you posted on my progress.
I played with the cam assembly gaskets and cam seal tonight. The cam gaskets (o rings) were so bad you could snap them like soda crackers. The cam seal was very easy to remove and was rock hard. Guess where the two major areas of oil leakage were. I'm taking the head in tomorrow. I called today and the estimate is about 250 dollars. Machining, checking valves and seats, pressure test, and cleaning. He'll check the threads also.
I'll work on the oil pan gasket Saturday. Got my Fel Pro kit and Permatex RTV (black). Where do I put the RTV? Chilton's said put it in the corner where the crank is and I think Haynes said a thin layer on all mating surfaces--block and oil pan.
I remember seeing one gasket listed as "leakless". Is that one that doesn't requre RTV due to its' design or just a marketing ploy?
OK, I just have to remember where I saw it. Dog still alive or walking with a limp?
It's sort of like being Sgt. Schultz from Hogan's Heros. I know nothing, I see nothing...........
Would it be acceptable to use this Dayco kit? It would save me a ton of money. I've always thought Gates and Dayco were pretty reliable. The Honda tensioners alone will be 100 bucks whereas the Dayco or Gates about 75 bucks (not including my discount of 20%).
Just an FYI, the Dayco kit is 125 bucks at Advance and 64 at RockAuto (the identical kit)! Pays to shop around. I decided to replace the o-ring in the oil control orifice also. I just happened to see it on the parts diagram. The only issue right now is trying to locate the timing covers and gaskets as a kit. Dorman makes several, but they all say for the California emission cars. It must have something to do with the bottom cover design. I also looked for replacement motor mounts (the one near the timing belt cover) is the one that went south on me. Even though they look similar, they aren't the same. Mine has a stud in one of the positions and another is threaded. The aftermarket do not have this.
Just found the Gates equivalent for about 20 bucks more. Pictures can be deceiving though. The RockAuto photo for the Gates shows the belts, pump, pump gasket, two tensioners, and both springs. The more I look it seems that is incorrect. It probably has the belts, pump, and tensioners. What to do, what to do. Gates pretty much equivalent to Dayco or vice versa?
I put out an email to Gates just now and will call Dayco on Tuesday (something about the email not working correctly for the moment).
Can you help me identify this sensor It's the one just behind the oil orifice I popped out in the center of the block. I can't seem to locate it on the parts diagram. It doesn't make contact with the coolant in the sleeve around the piston as far as I can tell.
It's screwed into the back of the block and beneath the intake manifold. I have the oil orifice on the back surface of the the block popped up as a reference. You can just see the black o ring on the popped up orifice in the middle of the block on the back. Just over the edge toward the firewall is the sensor which sticks out horizontally. There is a molded black cover on the sensor.
That's what I'm thinking since the open hole in front of the orifice has oil in it as far as I can tell. There is oil all over the place back there. I'm wondering if an o ring has hardened.
I found it. It was under engine wiring harness. It isn't located near the block on the photos. It's on the end of the wiring harness.
I found a BWD for 10 bucks at Advance. I didn't spy an o ring anywhere when I removed it.
I'll wrap it with a small amount of Teflon plumber's tape.
How should I clean the carbon off the pistons?
Lucky me, I have all that. I'll be looking at spark plugs next. I'll probably get Denso or NGK platinum. These I think are middle of the road without going overboard on iridium.
Running out to get some parts. Does it use the 170 or 180 degree thermostat?
I think it is stock at 180. I'm going to replace the o rings on the water pipe on the back of the intake manifold--the one that runs from the tstat to the water pump. I figure I'm there and it would be my luck it would leak after getting everything together. Real pistol to get to once I have reassembled. One bolt holds it in place from underneath. What's the price of a couple of o rings as compared to the hassle of having to tear it down later. Probably original too.
Got the oil pump gear off. Gasket was hard as a rock and broke easily, again much like a saltine cracker. I'm supposing that I didn't need to place the bolt in the chamber in the rear when I did this. Once I get it back together don't I spin it a few times and it falls into to place by balancing? That's just to keep it in place during the belt application? I'll run the gasket through my fingers with some clean oil before putting it in the groove. Do you think I need to apply some Permatex black to the mating surfaces? There's an oil passage on the bottom of the photo with the gear (a little oil is left). There was no sealant when I took it off, just the gasket. Can pick up my head tomorrow. Around 258 bucks. I am going to let him put the cam and rocker assembly on for me. Saves me a bit of trouble.
OK, I pretty much have it in the same position as when I pulled it off. I believe the lower timing mark on the gear balances out to the bottom mark which is actually at the 5 o'clock position. Eric the Car Guy has a good video and he showed the one he was repairing was actually not in the correct position from a previous repair. He rolled it a couple of times to show how it would balance itself naturally with minimal adjustment.
I started using the Seafoam on the cylinder heads. It will take a little scrubbing with a shop rag saturated with it, but a little elbow grease is what they need. How should I scrape the gasket remnants off the surface without scratching the head mating surfaces?
OK. I finished ordering all my parts today. Hopefully, they will all be here by the end of the week. Oh, the Honda head gasket said "leakless" in its verbiage. Do I still use the High-Tack? I think I got the right stuff--it's purple and has an applicator brush.
Head gasket. The other expert recommended it before you were able to pick up my question.
In the infamous words of Astro from The Jetsons, "Rut roh, George". Hit a snag. Camshaft lobes and rocker arms are scored pretty significantly. Bad luck. Looking for used ones now.
Holy moly! I got the oil pan off. I had to remove another section of exhaust down to the converter. This is not pleasant while on your back looking up. Trying to hold a nut and operate the impact with the other hand in a cramped space is enough to make one drink. The oil residue in the pan was really bad....can we say Hershey's Syrup...........I'm surprised at this because this was my sister-in-laws car and she was always good at keeping it maintained. I've only had one thing worse and it was my girlfriend's mom's car back in the early 80's. It was a cheap Subaru and I cleaned the muck out of its valves. It was shear parafin. I don't see how it even circulated any oil.
Yep, unusable scored. The shop doing the work for me cleaned it overnight and saw the scoring on the cam lobes and rockers. If I hadn't taken it in and had him clean everything I would not have seen it. He's looking for a used cam and assembly. To buy the cam and rockers it would be over 500 dollars new. I saw a place on eBay that would sell the head and rocker remanufactured for about 270 dollars. Free shipping. Seller has excellent ratings. Had I seen the scoring I would have bought that unit on eBay and trashed the current one. On the other hand, I do have a 258 dollar paperweight now.
The oil pan gasket removal was a bear. Took 45 minutes of slicing with a razor blade. Didn't lose any fingers doing that either. I think it was original. The adhesive holding it on was obviously thin and evenly distributed. Thick rubber gasket. Didn't look like Permatex. Hondabond?
Yep, a light gray. Look factory installed and heavy duty the gasket was. What's the best way to dissolve the remainder?
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX scraping tomorrow.
I was looking at the breakdown of the oil pump. Do you think there is any reason I should remove the oil screen and check it?
What about the oil pump itself? Just the screen?
Good thing I got the kit with all the gaskets and o rings for this. I didn't hear back from my guy doing the head cylinder today. Probably still looking for the camshaft and rockers. I may end up buying the whole shebang from a place in California for 279 bucks (including the head). It's off eBay and they have nothing but positive ratings.
Ivan, my parts from Honda came today. No directions with the head gasket. It's a 3 piece unit--3 sheets of aluminum with a pressed sort of copper ring on two corners. Got the new o ring for the oil orifice. Look at the new one as compared to the old one still on the orifice. Odd. Old one is really flat.
Went by a salvage yard today looking for a used camshaft and rocker assembly. I did find a few possibilities. I have the F22B2 engine. I did see some F22A1 engines that look similar, but I don't know for sure that the camshaft and assembly are interchangeable. I do know the VTEC can't be used in my case. I believe it has an extra cam lobe.
Am I OK to use the green Scotch Brite pad on the piston heads also? I've used it on the cylinder mating surface.
OK, I just want to make sure I don't gouge or scratch. It works better with the SeaFoam to get the carbon off things. Oil screen is shiny and clean. No muck to be seen there. Oil pan is all degreased. May put that all together in the next couple of days. I was looking at the new head gasket. There is no UP written anywhere. The main difference is if one side is up then the aluminum blocks the oil orifice in the center back and if it's the other way it is open to the cylinder head. If my photo from when I took it off is correct, then the aluminum blocks the oil orifice where the low pressure switch is.
If I flip it from top to bottom that's the difference in the two photos. One of the holes in the center and at the bottom in the first photo is blocked by the second of the three sheets of aluminum. At the top of the photo the middle outermost hole at the opposite side is open. It's hard to tell in the first photo, but the edges around the each of the holes is pressed slightly toward you whereas the second photo there are pressed slightly away from you since it is flipped.
Well, I got my answer about the head gasket. I picked up my cylinder head today and the guy told me you can only put it on one way. The two dowels fit only in the holes at each end of the block on the firewall side. You can only place the head gasket one way since the holes in the gasket are slightly larger in diameter on one side than the ones opposite them. Subtle, but it's true. You can't place the dowels or head gasket in incorrectly due to this design. As Sherlock Holmes says, "You see, but do not observe". My photos should be turned 180 degrees left or right. The black side would be the one that is up.
As I put things back together what do I do with the exposed cylinder sleeves on 2 and 3? Do I wet my finger with some oil and moisten the sleeve or just leave it dry?
I'll hit the boneyard Saturday to look for the camshaft and rocker arm assembly.
How does this look? The cams are spotless, but the area of the cam that fits into the journals is a little iffy? I can't really feel scratches if I run my fingernail over them. Go or no go?
What is crocus cloth. Can't say I'm familiar with that. Where would I purchase it?
Found some 1000 grit 3M on eBay. Sound about right for the grit?
Thanks. I'll order some. It was about 8 bucks for more than I would need, but I'd rather have too much than not enough.
I've hit a bit of a snag. I was doing a dry fit on the rear balancer sprocket and I can't get it to mate with the oil pump surface. I've added a little grease to the two posts and no luck. I tried a little silicone spray and no luck. I've jiggled and tried to get it to slide on and it just doesn't want to slide and meet face to face. Any tips?
The site is having issues tonight and says the engineers are working on it. I'll send a photo tomorrow.
I forgot about my Dropbox account. Hold on and I'll send the link.
Here's another. Is it such a tight fit I need to tap the outer casing with a plastic hammer?
I didn't try pulling the gears out a little bit. It seemed to mesh pretty well until that last 1/4". It feels like the posts or dowels are a tight fit.
OK, I'll try that tomorrow night after work.
I had another thought on my to work just a while ago. I need to measure the two dowels length and compare them to the depth of the holes in the gear assembly. If the exposed length is longer than the depth of the holes in the assembly I'll know they got pulled out a little bit when I removed the gearing.
Well, I got the oil pump gear case cover back on. I had to put a little grease on the inside of the slot where the dowels would ride. The tolerance is so close you can't wiggle too much or they stick. I guess it's because the aluminum against aluminum makes it difficult to slide the cover over the dry dowels. I'm working on the front balancer seal now. Does this look far enough in? I've reached the limit of my deep 32 mm socket.
Push a little more or leave it where it's at? Look how clean I have the block.....squeaky clean! I'll send some photos. Things are really slow tonight for some reason.
When it's all done she gets a steam cleaning.
Working on the water tube behind the engine next. I know there are two o rings, but do I just wiggle and pull the thermostat housing off and then pull the tube off from the back of the water pump? I know there are two hoses near the water pump as well as one bolt that holds the water pipe in place. The black water pipe enters the thermostat housing and I can see the o ring inside the housing.
I'm surprised it's not a more secure system.
Got the rear water pipe out this evening. Wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. Remarkably, the o rings are still pliable. I'll replace those as well as the o ring for the thermostat housing. Any RTV on the RTV housing gasket? I plan to use a little mineral oil on the o rings to make things slide a little easier.
Any RTV needed on the water pump or water outlet gasket? I've seen different opinions on the water pump gasket.
OK, that sems to be the most prevalent application. When I pulled the water outlet gasket it didn't appear to have any sealant other than the gasket itself.
Ummm, Permatex Black for this? I know it's the most oil resistant. Should I use Permatex Blue? I think it's blue for water pumps.
Nuts. I used Ultra Black on the oil pump stuff and that's the tube I have now.
Tomorrow I tackle putting the camshaft and rocker assembly back together. I'm going to smear everything with cam lube and carefully reassemble. Once it's on then I'll put the head back on. Any tips?
Hit a small snag. I have to order cam lubricant. Any substitute?
Would it also be called Engine Assembly Lube?
Got the camshaft and rocker arm assembly back together with a little fuss. Used Lucas engine assembly lube. Torqued to specs. Tough to turn the whole thing by hand, but I figure it's lube, not oil and new valve job, etc. The #2 exhaust valves and #3 intake valves are pushed out a bit because of where the cam hits. The sprocket is pointed up since the key is in there which makes a mistake impossible for me.
Sorry, I had to take the wife to dinner. 23rd wedding anniversary. I'll try putting the head gasket on this week. I have the torque sequence listed in my Chilton"s (3 stages). I'll smear a little oil in the #2 and 4 cylinders since they are deep in the sleeve.
I think they do. I'll double check though. I'll clean the threads up with my wire wheel on my bench grinder first to get rid of any debris.
I was right. Apply clean oil to the threads and contact face of the bolts.
Torque values are 29--51--72 ft. lbs. I saw a video about torquing the head bolts and applying the oil to the contact surface so you could hear the click of the torque wrench at the lower settings. If you didn't, then you might hear the scraping and popping of the bolt against the washer which is quite noisy actually.
I was getting ready to put the timing belt on and remembered something. I read somewhere that if the belt had writing such as brand, part number, etc. then it should face the engine. Is that true or just an urban legend?
Got the cylinder head back on too. I just need to find the wire brush wheel for my bench grinder. My wife relocated it. I took some motor oil and spread it on the cylinder walls with my fingers. Cleaned the block surface on more time with cleaner. No sealant was used.
For some strange reason I can't respond from my iPhone. So, I went looking for a wire wheel for my 8" grinder. The only one I can find is coarse. Would that be too much on cleaning the threads? I could pop on a 6" one for this quick job since it's the only one I could find with a fine rating.
Good. I was thinking coarse would be a bit much.
Got the head torqued down a little while ago. I tested my new torque wrench on my digital torque converter. I had it at around 72 on the dial (directions called for 72.3) and it would click at around 70 on the converter. Would that be close enough?
My only mistake was not putting oil on the bottom of the washer which rests against the aluminum. I did put it on the top of the washer and bottom of the bolt head. Several of the bolts would creak when torquing. Oh, I did put it on the threads also. Made it hard to hear the click.
I'll work on the timing and balancer belt next. The Woodruff key on the crankshaft isn't totally vertical, but this is where it stopped when I put it at TDC. I used a screwdriver in the number one cylinder to determine the max height. Is it OK at this angle?
OK. I have the bolt in the back of the engine to keep the oil pump pulley in place, the timing marks are good on the front balancer shaft, and the marks are good on the cam pulley. I'll work on the tensioners/belts in the next few days.
A little put more work this evening. The timing belt is on except for the camshaft sprocket. The balancer belt is on and the marks are true on the rear and forward balancer. The long bolt in the rear trick really helps hold the rear sprocket. All the marks line up with the tensioners on (no bolt on the tensioner shaft yet). I believe that I put the lower cover on next and put the bolt on the tensioner shaft. If I'm correct I tighten the bolt just enough to make contact with the washer that is over the outer tensioner, not too much to allow the tensioers to move. I believe I then put the outer crankshaft pulley on and torque it down just a bit in case I need to turn the crankshaft. I check the timing marks and if they aren't correct then turn the crankshaft a smidge to make sure all is lined up. Next, I put the belt on the camshaft sprocket by pulling on the tension side to the slack side making sure the two marks on the sprocket are in line with the cylinder head. Next, I move the camshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise and then tighten the tensioner bolt. Does that sound right?
When I put the balancer belt on I pushed down on the belt to make sure the marks lined up then I put the outer tensioner on. This way everything lined up once the outer tensioner was on and the last thing to go on was the two spring fulcrum piece. I have just enough tension on the bolt to allow the tensioners movement until I get the belt on the camshaft and make the 3 tooth turn.
If you go beyond 3 teeth does it really make a difference?
More progress. I have the lower cover back on (frustrating little devil to get back on). I put the tensioner bolt on, but did not tighten it. Left enough space to allow the tensioner to move when putting the timing belt on. I have not pulled the timing belt over the cam sprocket yet. I put the outer crankshaft pulley on and the timing mark is not under the plastic cover sight. It is slightly to the right if you face the belts or closer to the firewall. Do I adjust the crankshaft pulley first? I went ahead and marked the single groove with Liquid Paper so I could see it better. The white paint had faded some time ago. The 3 grooves to the left have faded red paint. It almost looks like if I put the belt on and turn it the 3 teeth counterclockwise the white mark would line up on the sight.
Should I go back and realign the timing and balancer marks? I didn't think to realign the crank shaft before putting the belts on?
Went back to the drawing board. I reset everything. the crank indicator is now vertical to match the small arrow on the block. I was off a tooth or so off on the front and rear balancers, so they now line up. I left the tensioner bolt loose and worked on the timing belt. The two horizontal marks were dead on and I pulled the belt on starting from the front. Crank was rechecked and it was true with the single groove. I moved the camshaft forward 3 teeth by moving the crank counterclockwise. I then tightened the tensioner bolt. Moved the camshaft back to TDC with the two horizontal marks in proper alignment (oh, the cam pulley also has the up arrow in alignment). The TDC timing mark is within the sight on the lower cover. Here's a couple of photos of the timing belt deflection.
There should be two different photos. One with the front slack and the second with the firewall slack.
Here's the other.
I'm going to tighten down the crankshaft bolt then turn the engine counterclockwise a few times to make sure everything looks good. I still have the cam lube on everything that I put on a week or so ago. I had also spread some oil on the 2 and 3 cylinder walls. Do I need to adjust the valves since the guy who did the valve job did this?
No, I put them on after the head cleaned and machined.
I'll check the manual. What should I adjust them to? The manual gives a range. I know the intake and exhaust are different.
OK. Should I pour some oil over the cylinder head now or wait until everything is sealed up?
Yep. I still need to add the distributor. Just pour it over the valves, cams, etc?
I'll work on that in the next couple of days. Hope you had fun with the kids. They grow up too fast in my experience.
Good luck carving it. Pumpkin pie anyone?
Ivan, I'm a bit perplexed. I have my camshaft at TDC, but the lobes don't look right. If I'm adjusting cylinder #1 then the bottom of the lobe should be contacting the rocker arm, right? The peak of the intake cam is pointed toward the radiator.
In other words, the least amount of pressure on the rocker isn't necessarily 180 degrees from the cam's highest point. In this case, it seems that it's 90 degrees from the cam's highest point.
Just checked the number 1 cylinder. Intake should be .010 (there was a typo in the Chilton's, it said 0.10) and exhaust should be .012. I can't pass the feeler past either one. Way too tight.
1995 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder non-VTEC
I sprang for the 15 dollar tool to make it easier to adjust--the one which has the screwdriver and wrench together. Should I adjust the intake and exhaust for each cylinder then move on to the next or adjust each of the intakes then the exhausts?
Luckily, I have the old camshaft to visualize what I'm doing. If I sight down the shaft from the pulley end I can see the exhaust lobes are at the 5 o'clock position and the intake are closer to 9 o'clock. I can wiggle the rockers for the exhaust and intake side, but there isn't much room. Goes to show you that since putting the rocker assembly on that things can change.
Totally unrelated, but I though you might enjoy this. Saw this at my local Honda dealership last Saturday. One of only 300 left in the U.S. in running condition. A Honda 600 coupe 1972 vintage. I had a neighbor who had an orange one back in 1973-1974 when I was a Senior in high school. A motorcycle engine with a body on it. She could get three of us in this thing. Granted, I was very skinny in those days at 120 lbs. The sign that was in front of it said it could probably do 80 going downhill with a tailwind. I learned that if everyone one inside would grab something in front of them and rock back and forth in unison the laws of physics would catch up and we could propel the car a little faster since we were all in sync.
I decided to order the valve adjustment tool since I thought it might be a little easier. My wife called me and said UPS left it on the front porch. It arrived a day early.......NOT! They delivered an empty package. Big 6" tear in the bottom of the mailing envelope. Nice empty package. Not even a packing slip. I was so excited and they rained on my parade.
I seem to have hit a snag. I was adjusting the valves when I saw green coolant in the center trough of the cylinder head. I was working on cylinder #3 and saw this. The only thing I see in that area are a couple of plugs that look removable. I did have this pressure tested. The only coolant was what was left in the passages around the cylinders and it was below the level of the top of the block. What the heck? The photo is looking down from the radiator over cylinder 3 and 4. Fluid is also in the trough near 1 and 2.
Your're gonna love this one. It wasn't coolant. I used the Lucas cam lubricant and guess what dripped into the reservoir. I kept looking and looking and telling myself why would it go into a section where there was no connection between the coolant and cylinder head. So, I dipped the end of my screwdriver into it and smeared it on my fingers. Viscous, not thin. Duh on my part. The lubricant is in a white bottle and you can't see the color until your pour it out. Double duh. As my dad says, a college education isn't everything, sometimes common sense kicks in. I really hate it when he's right. Parental revenge. I did break off the end of the cable exit point on the cruise control vacuum module. Darn it!
I may head back to the junkyard. It looks like I may only have to replace the cable which appears to have the housing part I broke on it as a single unit.
Slightly off topic. Have you ever had to replace the center hinge on your Sienna?
Mine gave way on the driver's side sliding door. It's scraping the paint and metal. When I compare the two open doors you can see the drop on the left. Been researching this and discovered you don't want to break the cable. It's 500 bucks to replace.
Alas, another auto repair job.
Getting closer to the finish line. I put the exhaust gasket on yesterday, but it looks a little weird. It is identical to the original and actually has UP stamped on it. It almost looks as if it would leak. It looks like gaps at the top of the gasket. I looked at the parts diagram and the orientation is correct. Is it just me?
Should I open and clean the EGR chamber while I'm into to this much detail?
Do you have any directions for that?
OK. I'll be playing with it soon.
I found this video on the web earlier and just remembered it. I was thinking I would use all new o rings. Silicone paste.?I would also use my Shop Vac to suck up the carbon as I scrape it out of the ports on the engine.
What about silicone paste? Can I get that at the auto parts store?
I have the spray. The paste seems costly. Thanks.
Popped the EGR chamber open. Guess what? Can we say carbon...Looks like a bunch of carpenter bees were working..
I don't see how it ran with all that carbon clogging the whole thing. I've bought the kits for each injector which has the seal ring, cushion ring, and o ring. How do I clean the crap off the injectors?
I'm going to put some SeaFoam in a container and soak each one overnight.
I have the injectors out and clean. Pretty nasty. I saw something in Chilton's that said align the marks on the injector and fuel rail to make a straight line. I don't see any marks on the rail. Is that unusual? I bought all new seals for about 6 bucks per injector (Beck/Arnley). Testing theory here since I'm not a mechanic. The black movable stem and cap at the top opens and closes depending on whether or not the electrical signal is sent. Right? It opens based on what the computer tells it to do at a certain point to send fuel into the cylinder.
I'll silicone the 3 rings and pop it all back together once I get everything nice and clean. i still can't believe how much carbon there was. The chamber needs a really good scrubbing.
So, I learned something today. How not to remove the gas filter. I decided that since I had some access I wound do this. What I didn't see was that there is access to the bottom of the filter if you look between the panels from below. They did design the filter with the clip on it so you can gain access from underneath and remove that compression nut FIRST. The clip holds the filter in place so you can torque that nut. Well, I didn't do that. It also helps to have long extensions and most importantly, a crow's foot. I've moved the filter past the clip in a clockwise fashion since I was trying to loosen it. I just need to figure out a way to grip that filter to keep it from moving any more. I may have to find some of those big boy channel lock pliers plumbers use to hold that filter in place while I attempt to remove from underneath. I'm going to enlist a friend to hold up top on this one.
How do you reach it? Wow, tight quarters.
Sorry, what's a line wrench?
Gotcha. I have a set of standard flare nut wrenches although they are a slightly different design. With mine, I can hold in one direction, but slides in the opposite direction..kinda like a ratchet without the ratchet. Two other ideas I had. One is to take a vise grip and place it on the nut on the filter with just enough force to hold everything without crushing. Place it close to the body or firewall so that when I try to unscrew the other nut it uses the firewall to keep the vise grips from rotating. I just have to be careful its not near the brake lines. The other method is to use one of the long wrenches plumbers use under the sink to tighten those hard to reach faucet nuts plus the crows' foot for the other nut. Drawback there is two people need to be underneath and you don't get as much torque.
Interesting, I haven't seen that before. I'm going to tinker some more Sunday since I'll be heading to my dad's house tomorrow. It's a 4 1/2 hour drive one way so it's a bear to go and come back in a day. Caffeine, caffeine.
I finally got the lower fuel filter nut off. There wasn't enough room to get the wrenches underneath. I used my extension and the crow's foot. It took a lot of force to get this off. It even bent the holding frame it sits in a bit. It popped just like a stuck crankshaft bolt. I was surprised at the amount of force it required.
I'm back after a bit of an absence. I'm having a bit of a problem adjusting the valves. I push down on the cam side of the rocker to make sure the height at the spring is at its highest. I try to pull my gauge through and it really sticks and catches. I put some oil on my finger and smeared it on the feeler gauge and try to pull it through. It isn't smooth when I pull it through. What would I be doing incorrectly? Oh yeah, I torqued the exhaust bolts down and darn if two didn't pop and strip. The manual said 23 ft lbs., but I didn't get close to that.
Can you really prevent the studs from stripping like that? Do I repair them?