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Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 2727
Experience:  Master Automobile Technician L1 Advanced Level Specialist
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Toyota Corolla CE: 05 Corolla Security light is blinking and

Customer Question

05 Corolla Security light is blinking and not all the instrument lights come on when I turn the key and it won't start. Previously everything worked fine then the radio stopped working yesterday. I pulled the CIG fuse and P/POINT fuses and both were fine. I then read that possibly the DOM fuse under then engine could be it. I failed to notice the dome light or clock on beforehand but the fuse was fine and all other accessories worked. I assume I reset the security and bought this car with just a keep and no remote. Is my conclusion correct and is there some way to reset it so it will start? I've checked all other fuses with my multi meter as well as connections to the starter etc.
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  AMD replied 4 years ago.

hello and thank you or choosing just answer.

 

In order to better assist you, I need a little bit more info.

 

What 2 lights are on in the dash when you turn the key on? Does your vehicle crank and does not start? or does not crank at all?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
It does not crank at all I had the ebreak on so that was one of the lights and the oil light was the other i know they should all come on when I initially turn the key. The security light just left of the steering wheel and next to the mirror control blinks unless the key is in it. When I turn it to Acc. it becomes solid then turns off and when i turn it to On it remains off. It started only a few minutes before i began checking and pulling fuses then not at all after.
Expert:  AMD replied 4 years ago.
OK, start by checking your battery. When the security lights blinks it is not detecting a key when you insert the key in the ignition it will come on and will go off if it recognizes the key as a registered master key. If your car does not crank at all and you have abnormal electrical behavior then start with your battery, You need to load test it meaning check the voltage on the battery with accessories on and see if it drops less than 12v. I would hate to be chasing ghosts and end up being a bad battery. Start with basics then we go from there.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yes sorry I checked the battery first thing, it is less than a year old and is putting out plenty of juice it was over 14v if I remember correctly. Plus all accessories and lights were fine and did not fade or flicker when turning the key to start it,
Expert:  AMD replied 4 years ago.

OK since your car does not crank that has nothing to do with immobilizer since the immobilizer will cut fuel\spark and the vehicle will crank but will not start. So moving on to check basic starter circuit.

 

Start by checking for voltage at the S terminal on the starter. Using your multimeter on VDC connect the black meter lead on the battery negative side and your red meter lead on the small gauge black wire on the starter and attempt to start the vehicle. Let me know what voltage reading you have when you try to do that.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I'll have to do that in the morning but it doesn't explain why the lights on the instrument panel aren't coming on when the key is in the on position. From where I look in the car above and below I can only really see and get to the wire going to the starter cylanoid is there anything I have to remove to get better access to the S terminal on the starter itself? Oh and can I connect the black to just bare metal for a ground? It would be very difficult to get both wires from the multimeter that far apart from one angle. As I stated before the car was perfectly fine just prior to pulling fuses and my buddy doing the tacho reset of the maintenance light, where you hold the trip gauge in and then turn the key or whatever. Could that have had an affect on the cluster lights?
Expert:  AMD replied 4 years ago.

Why were the fuses pulled? And which fuses?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I pulled them initially to check if they were blown right after the radio went out. all were 15 amp fuses. The ones i stated initially in my question. I read online that the CIG or P/POINT fuses could be the ones that go to the radio both were fine and the car turned on when I tried the radio again, then the DOM fuse was pulled and checked and also fine. When i told my friend to give me the 15 amp extra fuse that comes with the car he accidentally pulled the EFI/2 fuse, it also was fine and replace. It was after that I bought a multimeter pulled the EFI relay and tested it and then proceeded to test all the fuses. None were blown. Is there one fuse that would possibly reset the immobilizer? I still dont understand about the gauges not coming on.
Expert:  AMD replied 4 years ago.

OK, I am sorry to be direct and rude maybe. You and your friend misplaced something. Go back into that fuse box and check every since fuse and relay to make sure that you did not misplace a fuse or a relay and make sure that everything is in it's correct place and seater properly. Refer to this diagram below to know where everything goes.

 

PLEASE check every single fuse location and proper connection, Pull every fuse out, pull every relay out and make sure it goes to the right place. Remember that there are empty slots in that fuse box, every fuse you pull out shine a light where it goes and make sure you see 2 metal tabs inside.

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Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yea it's not rude i feel ridiculous about it but that's initially what I thought was the issue as well. I rechecked to make sure and obviously I didn't pull the relays unrelated to the issues(fans, headlights, horn etc.) i dont have the owners manual and thought i might have put a fuse in the wrong place but a mechanic friend (more of a body guy) came by and looked at it a his conclusion was probably have to get a remote from the dealer and have it reset and programmed. The first thing he noticed was those gauge lights not all coming on and the security light blinking but I figured it might have some possible reset it in a way similar to GM, turning the key to on waiting 10 minutes then repeat 3 times, or hondas which I believe have a reset button for anti theft system, I tried pulling the battery cable off for 10 min with no success. there are only so many possibilities with the fuses and I do have both the fuse diagrams for under the engine and steering wheel I'll check again but I feel like i have everything in the right place I know what an empty slot with only a tab on one side and a fuse slot look like and how they differ. Also not missing any fuses and dont have any extra ones either.
Expert:  AMD replied 4 years ago.

I'm sorry about that.

 

I don't believe it has to do with the immobilizer. I will opt out and let other experts help you although i'm sure most experts will focus on the same area where I was.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ill begin checking the starter tomorrow, I am guessing you believe a misplaced fuse has to do with the gauge? I appreciate your help but I can't work on it anymore tonight I will let you know.
Expert:  AMD replied 4 years ago.
OK check the starter and let me know. You may remove the air cleaner housing to get better access to the starter and yes you may ground the black lead to any exposed metal as long as it's clean so it would make a good connection.