Hello. Welcome to Just Answer. Please allow me to assist you.
I would thing based upon your statements, that you either have either a leaking vacuum line to the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) or a bad MAP sensor
We also replaced the Map sensor
And all the lines were checked for vacuum
I'm not sure, was working with a neighbor who is a certified Jeep Mechanic. He was using all Factory Toyota parts for the replacement.
Your statements indicate VSV for EGR, EGR modulator and EGR valve. Did you remove and clean the tube form the manifold to the EGR valve?
You do not mention the MAP
WhenI asked him about the new map sensor he said he replaced it also. but I did not have to pay the toyota dealer price for that one
yes he did that also
Is there vacuum going to the EGR at idle, any vacuum at all?
i'm going to call my mechanic lee in theis instance
Well I was not present for most of the work he did, he drove the car to and from his shop and worked on it there
It sounds to me like you either have a vacuum line incorrectly installed, or the MAP issue I described.
P0401 is insufficient EGR flow
P0402 is excessive EGR flow.
Lee said that all the hoses were on correctly, I checked the hoses and followed them to each position as a backup check using my toyota repair manual as a guide.
correct weird i know
These codes, if everything is 100% new and perfect, indicate that the EGR is sticking closed, and also sticking open.
I think that every time he checked it was only the 401 kept coming up
You stated P0402
I had him let the emission inspector got through the whole process and give the codes, and that is what I got
401 and 402
Lee also said that the EGR is getting really hot, more so than normal
He showed my another camry running and there was a reall difference in mine
Hotter than normal? THat indicates a lean condition in the engine.
Lee also indicated that there was a lot of black gunk in the exhaust pipe
Any other Ideas?
I would recommend an induction cleaning. Maybe two, back to back.
i guess, he used a paper towel and just wiped the inside of pipe and it was like black chalk
how do yu do that?
A hot egr = too much exhaust gas flowing thru it, or a lean condition. This would not set a 401. A 401 is the valve is not flowing.
The black chalk is normal
right not flowing.
Here is another thing
You see a auto shop; they hook up a device that squirts clearner into the intake manifold, which aids in cleaning the tops of the valves off
The Car was running great no problems other than would not pass inspection
The we replaced those parts
Now it is has an Idle problem, almost dying
what could that be?
Almost dying is a partially open EGR valve
EGR affects the idle, and causes the car to stall.
"squirts clearner into the intake manifold, which aids in cleaning the tops of the valves off"
is that like using seafoam, Iwas wonderif that would help?
Go out to the car. Disconnect the rubber line to the EGR valve, and put a suitable plug in the vacuum line. Start it up and drive it. See if the idle gets better
Seafoam? I do not use that product.
I recommend BG products, a personal choice.
ok I'll try that plug when I get home.
what else should I try?
If the EGR is open, you are getting hot exhaust gas right int the intake manifold.
You are only supposed to get EGR on deceleration (foot off of the gas)
No other time
That is excess flow, if the EGR is passing exhaust gas any other time than decel
The possibility of a faulty modulator exists.
rare, but possible
from the dealer?
Been known to happen
we have thought about putting each piece back on to see if that fixes the idle problem, since it was running great befor all this
The ticket is to check whether is has any vacuum at the EGR at idle. If so ,the VSV is either being told to be on by the ECM or there is a mechanical failure
would I need a vaccuum gauge to check that?
That would help a great deal.
and use the manual to for the proper inches of vacuum?
There should be no vacuum at the hose to the EGR at idle.
you mean the top pipe should not be sucking air at Idle?
vacuum opens the EGR valve. EGR gas entering the engine at idle is no good
top inlet on the RGR I Mean
The rubber tube, to the top of the EGR. Yes. NO vacuum.
but there is
the little inlet on the top of the EGR is sucking air, and infact it runs better when tht tube is not attached
but then it goes into a surging cycle
Then you either have something allowing the vacuum to pass (bad VSV/MAP/modulator) or something like that
Sure. It will run better whn you close the EGR gas off from entering the engine, by removing the tube
ok, so, I guess I need to recheck all of my dealer paid parts one by one, and what else?
Yes indeed. And make sure the MAP is new, and a Toyota MAP
If it was running OK before the parts were replaced, the new parts are causing your new issue.
I would refit all the old parts, get an induction cleaning done, and retest
OK, Can my Jeep guy do the induction cleaner or does it have to be done by toyota?
(there are not service bulletins on the P0401 or 402 issues.
Your Jeep tech can do it. Sure
Do you have any other questions for me today?
ok, yeah, I had also checked if there were and recalls on my vin number but there were not. I have been dealing with this problem for a while and been riding the bus to work every morning. My wife says I should just sell the car and not put anymore money into it. My jeep guy said he would take it off my hands for $500 my wife said to take it and run. but I think that is too low. and that the car still has life left in it,
but here is just one little thing that is keeping it from passing the inspection.
I had it out on the road and got pulled over for the tag being 9months out of registration. luckily he only gave me a warning
A good Toyota tech with an oscilliscope can check the electrical signals of the EGR VSV. Something to keep in mind
How much is a diagnosys from toyota about how much?
I charge 1 hour in my service department. 90 dollars
your area may vary
ok thanks I wish there is a smoking gun 100% fix for this. It is so frustrating!
So do I check on thses things and then write back or is this it?
The smoking gun is there. It just nees to be found. I think the MAP is the culprit, but that is speaking from experience. This is a hands-on issue, which is difficult for me without seeing feeling touching
Followups to an accepted anser are free of charge. If you have another issue, like something else is causing the EGR issue (intake manifold/knock sensor, etc), there would be the requirement of an new session.
do I hit accept button?
If you do not have any other questions, yes. If you have additional questions on this issue, please feel free to get back to me.