Toyota Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
My 85 4x4 22re was running fine, then suddenly stopped. It fires, turns over and runs for a moment then dies. It seems like it is not getting enough gas. It is doing something similar to when the air sensor wasn’t plugged in.
I already checked the mass air sensor. Getting readings on all the wires except the brown with black tracer and the white with black tracer.
Do you know what each of the 7 wires are supposed to read? It was running just fine until we had a rainstorm.
Hello. Welcome to Just Answer. Please allow me to assist you by discussing your concern. I have one question - the vehicle was running fine until you encountered a rainstorm. Is this correct?
This is true, but upon starting it the next day it ran fine for about 5 minutes then died while sitting at a stop sign. From then on it would start right up just fine, but then only die moments later.
Is the vehicle available?
Please go out to the vehicle, and pull the passenger side kick panel. In that area, there will be a relay with 6 pins on it. This is the Circuit Opening Relay. Check to see if the box is corroded or the wiring connector has corrosion in it. This is the most common culprit. Let me know if there is corrosion/oxidization, etc on or in the box.
The only thing I see behind the passenger side kick panel is the ECU, and it looks fine. Would this be on the drivers side?
It is higher up on the passenger side. Check behind the front of the dash panel
Sorry, I hope I'm not missing something here, but I don't see a six pin relay, just the ECU, the wiper control behind the kick panel
No worries, we will back track. DO you happen to have a 12 volt DC test light or a DC voltmeter?
I have a voltmeter.
Open the hood, and locate the diagnostic connector. Under the lid of the connector there should be a label. Look for the Fp cavity.
Ground your black lead on the voltmeter, and insert the red lead into the Fp terminal. Ensure you make good contact. Once you have done this, crank the engine. Observe the voltmeter. Advise if the voltage drops to zero when it dies, or right before it dies. Another thing, you mentioned the white with a black tracer on the air sensor. Did you have power in that wire or not when you checked it, and, how did you perform the check?
I'm at a loss as far as the data link connector. I cannot seem to locate it. There is no diagram anywhere either that indicates what terminal would be Fp.
That presents a problem. Let me ask you this - Did you have power in the green wire on the air flow meter?
The white with black tracer read 0.00. I had the key in the "on" position, black lead grounded, red on the "on" position and the terminal in the boot.
Please test the green wire for voltage, and see if the voltage there drops out and causes the engine to stall. Air flow meter = air sensor.
12 volts on green.
Start the vehicle and see if the voltage drops.
Voltage climbs when started. It does not drop below 12.
The diagnostic connector should be on the passenger side, near the fusebox, on the windshield side of the fusebox.
No dice. It is either not where it should be or there is something wrong with me
Let's do this. On the injectors, you have a blue or a yellow wire going to them, and a white and a white with a red tractor. See if you have voltage in the yellow and blue wires when the engine is started. If so, see if it drops when the vehicle stalls out.
Full voltage, it doesn't drop. What's weird though, is that it ran much longer with one of the injector plug off
Resistance checks: on the air flow meter, the white with a black is terminal, the green is terminal 2. The brown/black is terminal 3. The black is terminal 4. The blue with the red trace is terminal 5. The yellow with a blue is terminal 6. The yellow is terminal 7. On the air flow meter, with the wire connector disconnected: open circuit with the air flow meter door closed, between terminals 1 and 2, with the door open, the resistance should be direct continuity with the door open. Move the door open until the resistance changes, and continue moving the door. See if the resistance drops out. Terminals 6 and 3: 20-400 ohms with the door closed. Terminals 6 and 3: 20-1000 ohms with the door fully open. Terminals 5 and 3: 100-300 ohms. Terminals 4 and 3: 200-400 ohms. Terminals 7 and 3: 2-3 K ohms at 68 degrees.
All resistances check out within the parameters you supplied
Does the vehicle start right back up when it stalls out?
How long does it run, from start to stall, in minutes?
it has been running for about 3-6 seconds then cuts out fast. It actually just ran for about 5 minutes which hasn't happened since it first died. I was able to put in gear and move it forward and back then it died again.
This vehicle has all the earmarks of a circuit opening relay that is dropping out. It would be most helpful in our diagnosis to locate this relay. According to my book, it is on the passenger side of the dash, perhaps above the glove box. Lets do this - Remove a plug wire. Start the vehicle and hold the plug wire close to the engine to allow a spark to jump. See if the sparks stop jumping right before the engine stalls out. Use insulated pliers.
Just the wire? leave the plug in...
Yes. Leave the plug in. Disconnect the wire, hold the boot about 1/2" from the metal of the engine. You should see the spark jump. It should be blue-white, and not orange.
It sparks. But now it will barely runs at all, just enough to see a spark maybe 2.
Based on your statements, you either have a bad circuit opening relay, or the distributor/igniter has an issue. Without checking Fp on the check connector, we cannot verify if the fuel pump is dropping out or not. The air flow meter appears to be okay. Voltage at the injectors is good. That leaves us with either the circuit opening relay, the distributor/igniter, or the computer. More diagnosis is needed to sort that out. Voltage on the green wire indicates that the EFI relay is good.
Is it possible the previous owner removed the data connector or that my 85 never had one?
I wish I had better information on this. All I have been able to do is tell you what is not wrong.
Well at least I can save the mechanic a little bit of time tomorrow. Thanks for your time though. It is appreciated.
You are welcome. Thanks for choosing JustAnswer.