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Skyvisions
Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 13077
Experience:  Toyota Master Diagnostic
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Toyota Corolla: My air conditioner on my 2001 Toyota Corolla

Customer Question

My air conditioner on my 2001 Toyota Corolla suddenly stopped working on the highway. I think there were some noises as the a/c failed, but I can't be sure of that. The power light does not come on with the switch inside the car, although the heater switch light comes on. The radiator fan has also completely stopped working. I checked a couple of the 10 amp fuses under the dash and they were okay. I wonder if it could be a relay under the hood. I'm not a skilled mechanic but if you walk me through and provide diagrams or photos as needed, I can probably do the necessary troubleshooting and hopefully repair.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

Thank you for choosing JustAnswer and allowing me to help you resolve your Toyota questions!

 

Just to clarify you're saying that with the blower set to any speed and you push the air-conditioning switch in to turn on the light in the switch does not illuminate and you cannot get the A/C compressor to engage? Did the noises appear to becoming from the engine compartment area? When the noises occurred and then stopped is that when the air conditioner quit working?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Right, the air compressor does not engage whether the blower is on or not, and the light does not come on the switch. I'm not sure about the noises. They may have been a noisy car on the highway, but those noises seemed behind me, not from the engine compartment area. Unfortunately it was extremely noisy on the road so I cannot confirm that. But yes, after the noises, the a/c quit working.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

Let me look at a few options and I will get back to you.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Okay no problem.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Relist: Other. Skyvision asked a couple of questions and then said he'd be back, he had to think over the options. I said that was no problem. I didn't mind. But that was about an hour and a half ago, and I thought he'd be back by now. He didn't even make an initial suggestion or procedure I should try. I would think there is a definite list of things to check, so why not get me into it. I would have been happy with a beginning set of troubleshooting or diagnostic suggestions, and then getting back together after going through those. I'm not in a big hurry. But I think maybe he just wasn't interested and went on to other customers.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

It got busy here at work. There is a 7.5 amp A/C fuse that supplies power to the A/C switch. Then there are other multiple fuses. The first thing You need to do is verify that the A/C clutch is working and you can make the compressor turn on. At the 4 wire connector going to the compressor use a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal and apply 12 volts to the BLACK wire with the White tracer. This is a direct apply to the clutch mechanism. If the compressor engages and does not make noise check to see if the A/C blows cold. You need to dis connect the connector if you are un able to back probe the wire at the connector. Let me know how this goes.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Ya sorry, I understand, I wasn't complaining but this is my first time here and I wasn 't sure what to expect. I'm totally okay with working on this slowly or intermittently -- just let me know. Thanks for picking this up again. So 2 questions. 1) is this 7.5 amp a/c fuse under the dash or under the hood? Under the dash was an a/c fuse that was 10-amp, the one I checked. 2) Do you have a photo or diagram to show me where the compressor and 4-wire connector are? Also if it takes longer to complete this first suggestion and I have to sign off, how do I get back to you? Do I just reply toXXX@XXXXXX.XXX? Or use a more direct email or web address. Thanks.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
No worries. The 7.5 amp A/C is in the small fuse box by the rt head light. The connector is straight down on the compressor as seen below. The black wire with the white tracer is the power input to the compressor clutch mechanism to engage the clutch. Dis connect the connector and check for corrosion in the connector and broken wires. This is common. The locate the pin in the connector that goes to the clutch and install a jumper wire from there to the positive battery terminal and see if you can hear the clutch click on. If it does then start the engine and try to make the compressor turn on by the jumper wire you just used. If the compressor is noise or the belt starts to squeal then the compressor is bad do not leave the jumper attached. Let me know how this goes and the fuse condition.
Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 13077
Experience: Toyota Master Diagnostic
Skyvisions and 13 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Okay good, I've got what I need to work with except you implied there was a diagram or photo attached to your answer, but I'm not finding it. Do you have one you can provide for me as to where the compressor and 4-wire connector are? Thanks.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

OOPs old age.

 

graphic

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks again. I did an "accept" and feedbacked and paid you but I assume I can follow up with you on this after I troubleshoot it? It will probably take me at least 24 hours to get this all done -- today and tomorrow are totally hectic for me.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
No worries I am always around and I will get back to you. No need to reply until later if you need additional assistance after checking above things.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Customer I just remembered the issue of the radiator fan also, which I mentioned in my first post. Will this troubleshooting address that also? For example, does the 7.5 fuse I'm going to check also complete the circuit for the radiator fan? Or the wiring that goes directly to the compressor? Because as I said, I'm pretty sure both went out at the same time. Thanks.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

The radiator fans do not come on if the A/C is not engaging at least for the A/C side. They should still operate for the regular cooling. Make sure when it gets up to operating temp that they come on and it is not overheating. This would be a separate issue.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Okay, you're saying that's a separate issue? So it's just coincidence it stopped working at exactly the same time?

I'm talking about the huge fan about the same diameter as the radiator. It doesn't work at all now. Sorry I don't know what you mean by "they" or "fans." I know of only one such big fan.

And no, the car doesn't overheat. I can drive it 100 miles at 75 mph and it doesn't overheat, even without the operative fan.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

It can be a separate issue if the fan ( forgot they only have one.) does not come on for the cooling system and it starts to over heat. Hold the engine rpm at 2500 rpm and wait until the fan comes on to verify. It may take awhile and happens at mid point on the gage or 200 deg. The A/C controls the fan also. when the A/C is on.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Customer

The prompts imply that I am supposed to pay for this but this was a follow-up on the same issue, because I thought if both a/c and fan went out together then the diagnosis would be very simple. But since we didn't talk about it yesterday, I thought it just slipped our minds, so that is why I brought it up again (I had only mentioned it in my first post).

I don't mind paying twice for two issues, but you had said I was allowed follow-up questions after I tried your suggestions. I just wanted to ask this question before I tried, in order to save some time if the two combined problems point to the same easy solution.

I was not opening a new issue on the radiator fan. I admit I still don't quite understand what you've said, so perhaps it is a separate issue. I'll just follow the first stuff you gave me yesterday and get the a/c problem resolved first. Then worry about the radiator fan.

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

No disregard that. If i hit the need info tab to send it back then it implies I need more info. I am responding to you either way. No need to hit the accept button. Let me know how this looks.

 

The fans are controlled by two circuits. One is the A/C input and demand top keep the condenser cool. The other is by way of the temp sensor and is strictly coolant related. They work independent and together depending on the cooling demand.

 

I also confused this fan with the newer corolla that I am working on with another customer on. This has 2 fans in 2001 to cool the condenser and radiator. they still operate the way I explained.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
ah, i see, okay well thanks for that and let me get under the hood to see what's going on. I'll check back with you later and let you know status.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
OK
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
HiCustomer

I just wanted to tell you that I noticed today that the switch light DOES come on inside the car when I turn on the blower fan before trying the A/C. It's the compressor that doesn't come on. I don't think this information will change anything you've told me, but I thought I'd let you know. I'll get to the troubleshooting a little later.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

Let me know how it goes and if you can jumper the clutch and make the compressor come on.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
HiCustomer

Unfortunately there is no 7.5 amp fuse under the hood. Also, none of them are labelled "a/c", like the one under the dash, so I don't know which one is the right one.

Also, there is no clutch connector in the location you specified on the diagram.

I'm thinking that maybe you're thinking modern Toyotas. I have a 2001 Corolla.

Please update.

Thanks -- Eric
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

Do you have the VIN available?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes, but I'm not sure I want it "out there" on the Internet. I'm not sure I don't want it out there either, because I have no idea what anyone would do with a VIN. But it feels a little like a license number or a bank acct. number, which I don't readily post on the Internet. Why do you need it? The 10th digit is a "1", which correlates to 2001, I believe. Do you need something else?
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
I understand your concern. I just want to verify that the model and equipment is the same. The A/C connector is where indicated. I will see if I can get a actual photo of the connector location. I have a 99 at home and they are the same as the 01.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
JTDBW23E410016942
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
Can you wait for the photo this evening?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes, of course.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
ok
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
What country are you in?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Why?
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
The VIN shows this as a corolla model not used in the USA and the wiring info as far as color coding is not the same for this. I assumed this was a USA 01 Corolla. Does the connector and location look like the link below? LINK
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Well I'm definitely in a place (3rd world) where you could say technical know-how is, uh, questionable. Which is why I'm talking to you in the first place. So even though I know very little about mechanics, I would rather try to fix this myself with the help of an expert than take it to any of these people around here.

That said, now it seems you bring up a problem. Is the black wire you specified maybe not black? If I jumper 12V to the wrong wire, what happens?

Well I'm still searching for the actual a/c and a/c clutch connector under the hood (you said you were going to send me a photo of your '99, but I haven't got it yet), so I haven't got into the wiring yet. But I hope to do so soon. I'll look again in a few minutes, but I didn't see an a/c where you pointed to in the first diagram you sent me. Sorry if I'm a little bit of a moron on this.

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.

Disregard any wire color coding I gave you previously. When you replied back that none of this matches I was beginning to wonder whether I was losing my mind. Just kidding. Normally when questions come through from other countries there will be a listing stating which country or region of the world it's from. This one did not list that so I assume that it was a USA built vehicle. The first picture above is the exact compressor and connector location for the air-conditioning. This comes directly from the vehicle identification number. Unfortunately I don't have access to wiring diagrams for world market cars. This being said Toyota still uses a lot of basic designs throughout their whole model ranges. The air-conditioning magnetic clutch is the same worldwide. The only difference is slight configurations and of course the wiring schematics. This being said your air-conditioning clutch will have either one or two wires going to it, there are two different designs. The electrical main connector will be the same because there is a rotation sensor and heat sensor built in the compressor also. You can see these located on the compressor in the previous picture. There is another separate sub connector or small connector right at the edge of the magnetic clutch assembly. These can be seen in the links below. Click the link to download the image. These pictures were taken from a 2000 Corolla with a 1NZ engine. With the engine off reach down and grab the end of the air conditioning compressor and see if you can turn it manually by hand. This is the front plate part just in front of where the belt goes on the Pulley. It should be very similar to the picture listed below. If there is a one single wire connector going to the magnetic clutch disconnect the electrical connector and that would be the wire going to the magnetic clutch that you would apply 12 V to and you should hear the magnetic clutch engage. If there are two wires going to this connector right at the magnetic clutch then you would need to supply ground to one of the pins/wire and then another jumper wire and supply 12 V to pin/wire going to the magnetic clutch. This is basically electromagnet. If the clutch is clicking and you can manually turn the end of the compressor by hand then start the engine with the jumper wires attached at the electrical connector for the magnetic clutch then provide the power or ground or both with it running to see if the compressor makes noise and blows cold air. LINK1 LINK2

 

The air conditioning compressor is located directly underneath of the alternator and is on the right front corner of the engine compartment: right front being as you're sitting in the car.. If you were to remove the lower plastic splash tray you would see the compressor bolted to the bottom corner of the engine block.

 

sorry for the confusion.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks Skyvision, but you were talking according to the normal situation, which is a USA vehicle. I should have mentioned that. That's more my fault.

Thanks for the info. I think I can take it from here. I'll check back with you if necessary.

Good job.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 2 years ago.
Let me know how it goes.

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