The radiator fan in my 2000 echo does not come on. Relays appear ok. Fan comes on low speed when a/c is turned on. Have pulled the connector off the radiator temp switch but no change in fan speed. Does the engine coolant temp sensor near the head have any input to fan speed. If I pull this connector off the sensor, should the fan come on full speed? What other components affect the fan operation. Thermostat & coolant have been replaced & coolant flows through the system ok.
Hello and thank you for using just answer! This only comes on upon command....does the car run hot? If you unplug the a/c high pressure switch does the fan work?
I have had the engine idling for about 20 minutes & the engine feels hot but I can't tell if the temp is higher than normal as there is no temp gauge in the dash, only an overtemp warning light. I will unplug the a/c hp switch in the morning. (it is midnight now) & see what happens. Thanks.
Ok let me know
I've unplugged the a/c high pressure switch and the fan does not turn at all. I tried this with a cold engine & then a hot engine. ( I still have the plug on the bottom of the radiator unplugged as I gather this simulates a 'hot radiator' condition)
Have you tested for power at the fan connector directly to be sure this isn't a failedfan motor?
That was going to be my last option as space is very limited and I need to unbolt a few things to get to the connector. Is there a fuse directly associated with the fan function. I can't find any markings on the 3 fuse locations to suggest a fan fuse. Maybe I can supply power to the fan via the relay socket. Which of the relay sockets are directly connected to the fan plug?
There is a fan relay in the underhood fuse block yes, the fan connector is not bad to get to, I need to know if power is present there when the fan should be operating
I assume you are in the US. It is midnight here. I will check for power at the fan connector in the morning. Thanks.
I managed to take off the plug to the radiator fan. No power present. I then ran the engine & turned on the a/c. Conditions: engine hot, a/c on for a few minutes. 14 volts present at connector plug. I then connected the plug to the fan. It ran at full speed for about 15 seconds, then I heard a clunk from the bottom of the engine & the fan relay. Fan operated at slow speed & never switched to high again. I turned the a/c off and the fan stopped. I took the connector off & their was 0 volts at the plug. I repeated all steps again & had the fan going at full speed again for about 15 seconds. Sames noises. Could it be the Condensor Fan Resistor being faulty and going open circuit.
The fan does not run all the time on this.....only when commanded when the coolant reaches a certain temperature.....are you sure you have an issue here? Is the car running hot?
Do you mean that the current flowing to the fan when it is running at normal speed does not go through this resistor.Where and how is this resistor bypassed when it is running normally? I am running out of components to check. The fan is ok, the thermostat is ok, the switch on the radiator has been bypassed (disconnected simulating a hot radiator), the relays are ok (unless the terminals/contacts are sagging or disengageing under load). The only things left are the water temperature switch and the resistor. (or the part that bypasses the resistor?) What is the life expectancy of the resistor & associated components?
Cooling system is running ok now. I found someone with a reatively new Yaris which has the identical 1.3 litre engine. I had them let the car idle for an unbelievable long time before the radiator fan came on. It came on for a short time & remained off for a very long time. This made me think that a new engine runs fairly cool. I had replaced my thermostat & coolant, & the old thermostat was still working but with restricted flow as the rubber seal in the middle had started to warp.I had been used to the fan coming on more regularly at idle as the engine was probably heating up alot faster. The increased water flow of the new thermo had now made the engine take longer to reach normal temp. The echo only having a red light to indicate overtemp and no temp gauge, I couldn't tell how hot the engine was. Obviously not hot enough & the increased water flow kept it down. After reving the engine for a couple of minutes the fan came on full speed. All is well. I am happy. My echo has done 600,000 km and still going strong. Still original muffler, exhaust etc. Have only replaced 1 oxygen sensor at 200,000 km, 1 set of brushes at 310,000 km, 1 fuel pump at 550,000 km & 2 sets of rotors for the front brakes. Thanks for your help...like you suggested, was the engine running hot enough. I was running out of components to check as all were looking ok. Regards...Derek.