Hello, and thank you for choosing Just Answer to help you with your questions!
If they did a compression test, do you happen to have the numbers resulting from this test? And how long have you had the truck?
Did you just get it, or is it something you've had for a good while?
Not in front of me at the moment, I have had the truck for a few years it has high mileage but has run strong till now.
Is this something that has recently happened all of the sudden, or something that has slowly gotten worse with time?
How many miles are on the truck?
It just happened in the last 3000 miles all of a sudden I guess. Truck has 228000 miles on it.
And honestly, this is a very gutless engine overall, so if you were missing one cylinder, it wouldn't necessarily be a major power loss. (I have a 91 myself)
Have you ever done a valve lash adjustment on it, or had it done?
When it runs, do you hear a lot of clicking in the top end of the motor?
Not since I have had the truck have I had the valves lashed. It does have a bit of a ticking sound.\
These are VERY prone to valve issues. This is why I bought my 91 for under 800 bucks.
I'm not one to automatically suspect the head gaskets like many will, because I know better
and that would be obvious symptoms...
theres is no trace of oil in my antifreeze or vice versa
But without seeing it, I would have to suspect valve problems.
The owners manual recommends you get valve lash adjusted every 90k miles (I believe). And in these older motors it is VERY important
Otherwise what happens, is they will get looser and have excessive clearance
And when the cam lobe turns, the valve basically slams shut
This is the ticking you hear
Eventually, over time, this will basically beat the valve seats out of the head
Makes sense, what would my first plan of attack be?
When this happens, you have 2 options, both of which are usually cheaper than replacing the motor. Either find a good head in a junk yard, and do the valve lash adjustments on both heads (and I would recommend a basic valve lap job on both heads, which is really easy with the heads off)
per say Im not a mechanic
and get a top end seal kit (from the dealer is a couple hundred bucks.
OR take it in and have the valve seats re-cut, and basically a full valve job
Again I would recommend doing both of the heads
Any Idea on cost?
When I bought my 91 this is exactly what happened. Cyl 4 exhaust, and cyl 6 intake valves had no seats left. I found a used head in a junk yard for 75 bucks, swapped shims around until lash adjustments were in spec, and threw it all together with new gaskets and stuff
IF you were to do it yourself, it would be under 400 bucks probably, with all of the parts
(and replacing the head with a good junkyard head)
If you were to pay a shop to do this same thing, then labor rates are going to make the biggest difference. Please find someone that is very familiar with this motor, or the dealership. This motor has some quirks that need to be in mind when putting the motor together
I would estimate about the 1000 dollar range
(ball park, could be a few hundred dollars in either direction depending on labor rate)
If you get the valve job done at a machine shop, add somewhere between 300 and 500 for machine shop work for the full valve job and having the heads reworked
Difficulty? if i were to tackle this with time with a Haynes manual?
Again, local costs will vary
This is actually a very easy engine to work on. It's design is real simple. The layout is just sort of a bi### XXXXX work with
Thats the feeling I get by doing minor repairs on it
It took me about 2 days to tear mine down, find and replace one of the heads, shim the valves correctly, and replace every seal and gasket in the top end
A lot of that was research to try and come up with a head. It was cheaper to go that route than it was to have machine shop work done.
However some pointers to keep in mind... All of those small vacuum lines on the back of the intake plenum (where there are like a thousand of them).... DON'T TOUCH THEM!!!!!!!!!!! Leave themconnected. Unbolt the intake, and there are only a couple things that need to be removed off the back (pcv, cold start injector, a couple vacuum lines off the egr modulator) and lay the intake over on the passenger side fender
If you disconnect all of those vacuum lines, you will NEVER get them back on right
Lol wont make that mistake now, I may be back on here if I decide to tackle this myself. At least I have a Option B or C now with smaller $$$ attached.
And leave the exhaust manifolds bolted to the heads. Disconnect the 3 bolts where the exhaust mounts up behind the drivers side manifold. Leave the rest alone. Remove both heads with the exhaust manifold all at once
My recommendation would be get a subscription to http://techinfo.toyota.com
you can get a 2 day subscription for like 15 bucks
This IS the factory repair manuals, electrical wiring diagrams, etc. This is the same site we use at the dealership
All of the repair manuals are in pdf format, and you can save or print them as you need for future reference
This is WAY better than a haynes manual, and costs less :)
Perfect I may go that route thanks for the pointers,your time and all of your help.
You're very welcome. If this is something you decide to tackle yourself, you're more than welcome to ask me any questions you come up with
If you pay a shop to have it done, I would either make sure they're familiar with the 3vz motor, or just take it to the dealership and pay a little more to have it done. Trust me, it's worth it to have it done right the first time
I will take that into consideration.
Because little pieces of experience, like not removing the vacuum lines on the intake, make all the difference in the world
Otherwise you'll have to keep taking it back to that shop for the next 6 months because of having to track down vacuum leaks, or vacuum lines hooked back up wrong, etc
Dont want that. Thanks again