How JustAnswer Works:

  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.

Ask Skyvisions Your Own Question

Skyvisions
Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 12924
Experience:  Toyota Master Diagnostic
Type Your Toyota Question Here...
Skyvisions is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

Toyota Camry DX I have 1996 toyota camry 2.2 literand cranks

Customer Question

I have 1996 toyota camry 2.2 literand cranks but wont start.Fuel pump works,It has no spark and no injector pulse. 150,000 miles. (The vehicle came into my shop with no oil in motor and blown head gasket and dead battery. added oil, coolant and replaced battery. car started every time every day for the last week. Decided to replace motor with junkyard motor. Motor started fine the first five times with no misfires and runs great.) After replacing motor now I have problems with ignition system. 1 out of 50 cranks the vehicle starts now. It threw a po1300 code at one time while running. Code is not there now. New crankshaft sensor, new coil, new plugs,wires. cap, rotor, I took the distributor off the running motor and the existing one. (rersistance tests good on both). I am trying to figure out if I have bad igniter, bad igt or igf wire/ground or bad ecm. Or did something get bumped loose during motor swap. The existing motor ran and started every time before replacement, this new motor runs great when it starts, but its just not getting spark. I think I have overlooked something, or am doing a test wrong. I need suggestions
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
Thank you for trusting Just Answer with your Toyota question. May sound like a stupid question here, but you do have power on the white wire with red stripe at both the igniter and the coil, correct?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Yes. That is corect. With the key in the on position The white wire with red stripe gets power at the coil and igniter. I hope you understand the igt and igf circuit and crankshaft sensor circuit ne signal. I I work at a shop and have a snap on modis with graphing capability, osciliscope, etc. Also have power probe.

 

Any way the wire does get power.

Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
I havent used a Modis, though I am aware it is a very good tool. Generally, we dont see people on here who are equipped this well. How many simultaneous channels can you scope with the Modis? Have you scoped the igf and igt signals? if you lose the crank (ne) signal, you should have a code for it unless there is an ecu problem, so we should concentrate on the ignition signals first.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
The modis can do up to four channels. It has troubleshooting and several different graph options for igniter, coil, and crank sensor. I have scoped the signals and they were giving delayed 5 volt square waves. I have read many other forums where people try to diagnose this problem and many troubleshooting hints are given but no answer with description of what fixed it is given. Except for ecm.. ecm was finebefore i swapped motor. The ne signal is good on a scope. I also inspected reluctor tone wheel for damge and it apears ok. I think there is something simple wrong with this car that I am over looking. SO bare with me I suspect the 1300 code means there is a short in the igniter circuit or going to ecm. SOmebody wired a viper alarm system into this car and ran a power wire to tachometer on igniter to vipar. I disconected the splice, by the way. I was sleepin for the last 12 hours, but will be near my computer for the next 18 hours so hopefully we can figure this out.
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
You had a signal from all 3 of these (igt, igf, and ne)? Where did you check them? i.e. igniter, crank sensor, ecu, etc.......
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Crank shaft sensor I checked at the the teminals under the alternator. At one point I was not getting a signal. i HAD THE SCANNER HOOKED UP with data display. The crank sensor was not reading rpm. I fixed the wiring and now the rpm reads 440 rpm while cranking. I checked the wave forms at whire red wire at igniter and coil. I also checkd for volateges and waveforms at the pcm and at igniter and ignition coil. They apeared good. Another thing I forgot to mention is If i try to start this car enough times, when the battery is about dead the car starts.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Remember before motor swap car started everytime
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
Which pin did you check at the igniter? Pin 1 or pin 3?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
pin 1
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
when I check the wave signal should I use an amp probe or back probe
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
Backprobe, is that what you did?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I dont remember. but im at my shop now. And can do the test again. if you were gonna do waveform test how would you go about it in case i did it wrong
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
You are interested in pins 1 and 2 at the igniter. Backprobe each one and get a scope signal from it. They should show the same signal.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
so are you saying to leav igniter plugged in. And Hook positive backprobe up to number one and hook up ground wire of osciliscope to a known good body ground and crank. ? please explain to me how you do this so I know I am doing this exactly right.
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
)es, you have the correct method.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Im am getting a zig zag 5 volt signal now instead of a square wave signal. The car started. With it running i am getting a zig zag signal. 10 have scope set at 10volts and 200 milliseconds. channel one has thes options. displayed , inveterted, coupling ac peak dtect, filter, and auto find. I turned on displayed and auto find shoul coupling ac be on or off. what does the zig zag line mean? why isnt it square? Obviously the car starts intermittently whick is why I think there is a bad ground. now it wont start again.
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
This is simply on/off, should not be a digital square wave. When the car does not start, does it still have both signals?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
yes it has both signals. on igt and igf.
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
This is really odd because the igf is a feedback signal that occurs when the coil fires. Have you checked for spark at the coil or at the ends of the plug wires?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I will check again. What method do you suggest for checking spark at coil. so you are saying I shouldnt be getting a signal or voltage on igf unless I am getting spark.

Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
You should not have an igf signal if there is no spark. Remove the coil wire at the distributor cap and put a spark tester on the end of it.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Okay, I disconected coil wire at cap and grounded to engine mount ground. The spark is nice and blue but only apears once or twice for every 6 seconds of cranking.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
SO what I am saying is the spark is intermittent
Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
Check the signal across each side of the coil. If it is a good steady on/off, then you need a coil. If it is not, probably an igniter or wiring between computer and igniter. Generally we replace the coil and igniter together.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
coil and igniter are new. I will try another coil first. remember this car started every time before motor swap with no parts replaced. I suspect wiring problem I just don't know where to start. I will retest signal at coil. I will gladly pay you when this car runs. so let me do the sugeested test and get back to you.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Sorry , i do not accept this answer, I understand you needed to ask those other questions to verify things and be on the same page. In my 13 years experience I have never given up on a car, but this one is tough. In your toyota experience have you ever run into a bad ground with ignition system with this setup. I agree this car has a wiring problem with igniter or coil, that is was my conclusion before I signed into this site. I am also a member of identifix, they have several posts on this car for all of the above. I now that we agree on the problem I need help troubleshooting the grounds. If you think you can help give me a suggestion, if this is as far as you can take me I need to know.

Expert:  Boxer54 replied 3 years ago.
We are not getting anywhere with this exchange, so, I will opt out and open up this question to all our experts.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Thank you for choosing JustAnswer and allowing me to help you resolve your Toyota questions!

 

Where is your shop located? IF you clear the 1300 code does it come back as soon as you crank the engine and it does not start?

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Downers Grove Illinois. The 1300 was present for a short time, due to battery failure it has reset itself and not come back. That is the only clue I have that there is failfure in ignition cicrcuit, that and no spark. With a noid light, and cranking the light flashes once and the stops, I think the computer goes back into safe mode. Do you have clues or sugestions as the other expert confirmed everything I already knew.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Downers Grove Illinois. The 1300 was present for a short time, due to battery failure it has reset itself and not come back. That is the only clue I have that there is failfure in ignition cicrcuit, that and no spark. With a noid light, and cranking the light flashes once and the stops, I think the computer goes back into safe mode. Do you have clues or sugestions as the other expert confirmed everything I already knew.

 

However this car is no spark no injecter pulse!

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Corrosion should not be an issue. Did you get the ground wires clean and tight to the intake manifold? Did you check the ground wire voltages at the computer when it is in the no start condition? Are you certain the parts installed are good? Have you tried installing all the original parts to see if the code 1300 comes back and is consistent since it ran prior to the engine swap? Is the engine and controls on it the exact same year? Just to clarify right now there is no pulse and no spark yet there are no codes??

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
That is correct, no pulse no spark, I am going to check the things you said at 6pm tonight once shop is closed, will get back to you then, Thanks
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.
Sounds like a plan. Also when this is happening and the key is in the on position is the check engine light illuminated?

Skyvisions
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
ok, check engine light comes on when key is on. What I would like to know is where is the ecm ground and is it a brown wire? Im racking car right now to check that intake manifold ground, I know exactly which one your talking about! Sounds like you know this car!
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

all 4 grounds on intake are good. When I take the wire from the ignition coil and ground it with small gap I get a blue spark one time for every 6-8 seconds of cranking. I imagine there should be constant spark coming out of this wire. I bought my noid light lit from snap on. I have read that this kit isnt always acurate for this car, don't know if thats true or not. As far as the parts go they pass resistance tests and pass the graph tests I read to do on identifix. I think I am dealing with a bad connection somewhere, cuz when this car starts it runs so smooth like a sowing machine.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
ALso, just found bad conection at igniter to coil. I believe it is terminal 5 black/red wire, resolderd, good conection now. WIth my power probe hooked up to the coil wire( where it goes to dist cap) with key on I get 12 volts, with cranking I am getting 9 volts. Does that sounf right?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Now when cranking spark is there constantly, I am gonna inspect distributor again and swap it out with a different one.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

okay, swapped distributor, I am getting spark on cylender one and cylender four, hope this helps.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I found something I dont like. The Ig T wire, at the igniter (white wire 2nd terminal has 5 volts with key on engine off. Shorted wire or bad ecm?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
So I cut the wire at the ecm E11 igt wire. There is 5 volts coming out of ecm from this wire with key on and wire cut, I don't know where the ecm ground is on this car, I want to check it otherwise I think ecm is bad, but if ground is bad a new ecm wouldnt fix problem, so I gues I need to know which ecm ground to check and where? Thanks
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

IGT Wire is supposed to have 5 volts the computer pulses this signal to trigger the ignition to ground the coil to energize the spark. Once the spark occurs this triggers the feedback signal on IGf to confirm the spark. If the computer does not see the IGF it shuts the injectors down. The computer wires that are White with the black tracer are the ground wires and most of them go to the intake manifold. The brown wires are also ground wires. IF you plug all these wires/connectors in and back probe the grounds there should be no voltage less then .02 volts or you can disconnect and OHM test them to ground. IS the p1300 coming back and engine giving good spark now and still not running? I am a little unclear what is going on as of now.

 

Skyvisions

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
<p>As of right now the igt wire key on has one volt. coming out of ecm key on engine off. when cranking the key the igt has one volt coming out of it.</p><p> </p><p>Last night, the igt had 5 volts coming out of it, now it doesnt, is this car possesd?</p><p>Okay I put old igniter ( the oe one) and car started. Car ran for 20 minutes and I shut it off. Now it wont restart. Should I try a toyota igniter? I am pretty confident all my wiring is good. Now I think I have bad igniter or wacked out pcm. The different volt readings I got out of the ecm at igt blew my mind, I don't know what to do?</p>
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

I very rarely see ECUs go bad. And when you do it is normally due to water contamination or the vehicle being jumped backwards. However I have seen a fair amount of igniter's go bad on this vehicle. It just does not make sense due to the fact that it ran fine before the engine installation which usually means something in the wiring, connectors or so on. Make sure that the body of the igniter is well grounded. If you're confident that you have all of the computer grounds and power inputs and the wiring between the igniter and the computer has been verified and is good or not shorted or open then you need to start somewhere possibly with a good Toyota igniter or one from a known good used vehicle. This type of problem is very difficult to diagnose in this type of format and needs to be a hands-on type of repair. If you understand the theory of operation of the IGT IGF circuit and have a good ociliscope you can usually pinpoint the problem very quickly. Using a voltmeter to monitor IGT are IGF like the repair manual shows on the older vehicles is very unreliable.

 

Skyvisions

Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 12924
Experience: Toyota Master Diagnostic
Skyvisions and 7 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I thank you for your time, and expertise. I understand the igt and igf signal now. I will remember the f stands for fuel. It sounds like a saftey , the igniter completes the circuit and sends confirmation signal to ecm. I have a modis labscope and am still learning to master it. I will get a toyota igniter and see what happens. I suspected there was a bad wiring harness but with the testing I am not finding any opens or shorts. Do you know where i can get pigtails for this igniter, coil, just in case. Or do I have to but the whole harness? The labscopes did show good known waves, except for one wire, I cant remember which one. I will get igniter and let you know. If I run into more problems I would like to work with you more and pay you for your time. The transmision doesnt shift into gear now and it did fine before. I think I misaligned torqe converter or pulled it out to far with r/r of engine. Fisrt let me get this car to start every time. If car doesn't start I will pay you more for your help, it sounds like you know what your talking about, I like diagnosing cars and not throwing parts at them. I have read these cars need toyta ignition parts. We will see what happens Thanks again
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

The dealer sells some connectors and wire ends for repairing you would need to check with the parts department to see what is still available or go to the junk yards and cut the ends you need. Let me know how it goes and if you need any thing in the future just ask for me Skyvisions in the question and I will get back to you.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Thanks a lot. Dealer wanted 420 for igniter. I found a toyota one with pigtail(just in case) at junkyard. I will have it Saturday or Monday. Ill let you know what happens. Thanks again. Nice workin with you.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Let me know how goes.

 

Skyvisions

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
What I forgot to tell you was when engine was dropped back in my partner wasn't paying attention, the wire harness got stressed near the rf strut tower,. I was getting funky readings (graphing) when car originally didnt start. many hours of diagnosis later, with battery disconected I ran a new tachometer wire from igniter, a new igt wire from igniter to ecm,a new black red wire from igniter to coil. All three of these were not getting good continuity readings or power at times, once I resolderd them I was getting proper voltages. At one point the igniter tachometer black wire was shorting with the throttle position sensor. This car was an electrical nightmare(but I have learned so much) I am confident all my ignition system wires are good now. I also had found the crankshaft position sensor wire was open too. I fixed that also. One thing I am curios about is if my reluctor tone wheel for cps sensor is damaged. Visually It looks okay and i didn't see any cracks in teeth. If it was damaged would it show up on waveform in graph? I know this is a lot of stuff, But i went through a lot to get to where I am in this daignosis, my partners job was to watch the wiring harness while we removed the motor, he messed up. This is my 3rd toyota four cylender motor i have replaced. First time on this style camry, and the other two motor swaps the cars started imediatly with no problems. Well I feel relieved to know im on the right path now.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Being pushed to the edge of a problem car is what separates the best technicians from those who are just simply parts replacers. Although this was a long process it looks like you have learned a lot. To answer your question about the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft if the edges or teeth on this wheel got cracked or damaged or even been slightly it would show up on the waveform on your scope. If the teeth got bent back slightly the waveform would not have equal peaks top to bottom on the amplitude. If one tooth was missing there would be a regularity across the time or frequency. I believe this year and I would have to double check because the production in 95 to 96 they were introducing this new system. This is a 32 -2 tooth pattern the normal gap in the waveform is where the two teeth are missing so that the computer knows where top dead center is. If you need a good picture of what the waveform looks like, if you do not have, one let me know.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I need to wait for the igniter, and I might be over analyzing this car. Before I fixed the cps wiring there was no rpm when cranking on scanner. After fixng wire rpm shows up and reads 450 rpm when cranking. When graphing this cps do you hook one wire up to ground and one too ne signal wire on cps and crank?

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

On the scope use the ground and then depending on production plant it is the red wire or the White wire with the blue tracer and this is the harness side. This is the 32 minus 2 tooth sensor system. Use 5 volt and 20 msec and that will get you close on the scope.

 

Skyvisions

Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 12924
Experience: Toyota Master Diagnostic
Skyvisions and 7 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I got the igniter today. It didn't apear to make a difference. It was a toyota one too. With the igniter unplugged I checked for voltages before doing any graphing. The white wire with grey dashes is not getting acceptable voltage reading. Something changed. With key off the white wire(igt) is getting 0volts. Which is okay, with key on the circuit gets disrupted and has no reading for volts like theres an open circuit. So I cut the white wire near ecm again and have just the wire hanging out of ecm and same result. Does this sound like a bad ground for ecm or bad ecm, what would you do?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
By the way I was waiting to get paid so here is a donation for your time
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I dont accept answer yet but am paying you for your skill, I know there are lots of a holes out there that get an answer and dont pay. You have been very patient with me and I know money talks, Do you ever run into new 4cylender toyotas with 420 codes with good maf sensors, 02 sensors, and new direct fit converters? I know a trick (burn off procedure) that revives cat converters. You are a toyota expert and probably know but if you don't I will share with you. Thx again, let me know what to do about my 96 camry. I am willing to do any tests necesaary ! DO you live in illinois?
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

It has been a crazy day have not been online much. I do appreciate the bonus and the extra accept and I will do my utmost best to help you get this running. There has been a lot of replies back to me and I'm getting a little confused as to what exactly is going on here. You have mentioned that you have found several broken wires in the harness and have repaired them correctly. At this point you're still getting the P. 1300 code is this correct? If this is the case and you have a good igniter and you have ruled out all of the computer inputs and grounds and you are suspecting issue with the wiring between the igniter and the computer because you have only tested it and the numbers don't look good I would run a separate wire harness from the pigtails at the computer that you already clipped and run two separate wires for IGT and IGF out to the igniter to see if this eliminates anything.

 

In 1996 there are two or three different possible options for ignition systems. Do you have a distributor or do you have two separate ignition coil packs? Sorry I do not live in Illinois I know someone in the Northeast somewhere if you're interested not sure how far he would be from you. We do see a lot of 420 codes in the Camry's and sienna. Always interested in new tricks and tips as to what you're referring to about a burn off.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

This car is a 1996 camry 2.2 liter. I beleive it is federal emision with californiasetup. Tge wiring goes ecm to ignitert to one coil, to distributor cap/wrotor which has pickup coil inside and the cam sensor. The crank sensor sends ne signal to ecm to send igt signal to igniter which sends spark to cap/rotor, the igf signal confirms spark to ecm which allowys for fuel injector to operate.

 

Is the igf terminal on this ecm supposed to reciev voltage or send it out?We discussed this befor but maybe I didnt word it correctly. With the key in the on position what voltage shlould the igt wire read at the igniter and what should it read at ecm as far as voltage goes? i have gottne 3 different reading s for this wire in 5 days, 0, 1.2, 5 volts. If I cut this wire and measued volts only at the ecm this isolates any wires from messing with it or throwing off readings. Am I correct? All my other wires at the ecm read the specified volt value with key on. So I suspect There is a bad ground to ecm in wiring messing the reading up, or there is a wire touching another wire causing pcm to act up, or pcm is bad?would u say that is a good theory for the igf wire?Without this curcuit reading the right voltages fuel injectors will never pulse. So I want this wire to read correctly.

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

This is an early production 96 based on your description of the distributor and internal single coil inside..

 

Is the igf terminal on this ecm supposed to receive voltage or send it out?

 

IGf is a feedback to the computer from the igniter.

 

You keep bouncing around on this. Here is the description of the system of operation:

 

The ECM determines the ignition timing IE crank and cam sensor and turns on Tr1 in the ECU at a predetermined angle (°CA) before the desired ignition timing and outputs and ignition signal (IGT) to the igniter. Since the width of the IGT signal is constant, the dwell angle control circuit in the igniter determines the time the control circuit starts primary current flow to the ignition coil based on the engine rpm and ignition timing one revolution ago, that is, the time the Tr2 turns on. When it reaches the ignition timing, the ECM turns Tr1 off and outputs the IGT signal O. This turns Tr2 off, interrupting the primary current flow and generating a high voltage in the secondary coil which causes the spark plug to spark. Also, by the counter electromotive force generated when the primary current is interrupted IE field coil collapse, the igniter sends an ignition confirmation signal (IGF) to the ECM. The ECM stops fuel injection as a fail safe function when the IGF signal is not input to the ECM.

You can not accurately check this system with a voltmeter it is unreliable. You need to use a scope. IF you have confirmed there is no problem with the IGt and IGf wires from the ECU to the igniter then you need to check the signal generators ie pickup coils in the base of the distributer. and also the coil itself can cause issues. They are known to crack and become discolored on the top side by the Don't remember if you did anything with that. This can set a false P1300 code in some rare cases. It is not likely a bad ECU. It is not reliable to have the circuit open when testing igt and igf. everything needs plugged in and the engine needs to be cranking.

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I gotcha, and I understand even better. My tests are based off of all data and identifix. I am gonna take a brake from this car for a couple days or a week and go back at it. I am sure I am missing something that you have told me and am just not catching it. I will do some graph tests and figure this out, but for now I need a break.

 

Burn off procedure!!!!!! Many four cylender toyotas have a 420 code. I replace lots of converters at my shop. However something always causes a converter to go bad, once that part is found and fixed a 420 code may be exibted sometimes with exsisting converter or new converter. This procedure is for four cylender motors on1998 toyotas and nissans only. With coil on plug setup

 

Remove one ignition coil(but keep pigtail plugged in) Set the coil on top of motor so when vehicle is running it is arcing. You will be running on 3 cylenders and get a misfire code. Start vehicle with coil off of plug and rev motor between 2-3000 rpm for 3-5 minutes. Shut off car put coil back on spark plug. You have just made the catalyctic converter at an operating temperature 200-300 hotter than normal. This allows any soot in converter to evaporate or burn up and exit the exhaust. This revives the catalyctic conveter and prevents the 420 code from coming back on( as long as the converter isnt broken in pieces.) That is the burn off procedure!!!! I have done it and it works!!!

You can save an oe converter from being replaced by doing this. As long as you have fixed the part that caused the poor fuel trims to burn up the converter in the first place.

I hope this trick is helpful and please dont tell all your friends. Thanks again skyvision I will talk to you in a week or two. I hope you appreciated my gratuity and tip, thats my way of saying thank you besides typing it.

 

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Sounds good walking away sometimes for a break helps clear the mind. Thanks for the bonus again you would be surprised the number of people that don't pay :-( I will have to try the converter trick the next time unfortunately most of the ones I see are failure do to poor or deteriorated chemical make up of the converter not polluted with carbon.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Well give it a shot, its a nice trick when all else fails, I only use direct fit catco converters or toyota converters, however not everyone can afford 600-800 for a converter, in that situation I replace the bad part( o2 sensor, or maf sensor), do a fuel system cleaning and burn off procedure, and let them know this is not guarunteed to fix problem, and if it fails they will not recieve a refund, but a credit towards a new converter which they declined to buy in the first place. I usualy charge 49 dollars for this procedure, and I only do it when necesary, but sometimes I will go the extra lenght for a customer, but 90 percent of the time I replace the converter and as you know it is much more profitable too. Does toyota sell quick struts(like monroe does)? Do you sell a lot of evap canister assemblies on the newer toyotas? I know this stuff is unrelated to my original question but im curious what happens in the non chicagoland markets and is nice to relate with another expert! Chicago land fuel is loaded with ethanol which destroys converters, injecters, and fuel filters. Good for me but unfortanate for my customers.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

No on the Quick struts. I do not see a lot of charcoal canisters go bad on the newer Toyota's only a few issues with the new style canister that has the built-in vacuum pump occasionally we will see the vacuum pumps lock up but early 2000 model Camrys and Corollas we're starting to see the diaphragms rupture in the canisters which will set a 440-441-446 codes.

 

Skyvisions

Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 12924
Experience: Toyota Master Diagnostic
Skyvisions and 7 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Out here they sell the canister as a whole assembly with all new sensors like I said. people fill there gas tanks full. Then they try to squeze in that little extra bit of gas and it has to go somewhere, guess where, gets forced into canister and damages diaphrams and sensors, 440, 441, 446 = $$$$$$. I always do a smoke test and make sure nothing is loose unplugged underneath hood, but 90 percent of time evapcanister. Do you use toyota only struts ? have you tried the quick stuts that come preassmbled with new coil spring mount strut cushion rubber, saves time and makes for a great ride for customer. I only install them on cars that are 7 years of age or older
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

I have used the quick struts from Monroe. I normally do not use Toyota struts due to the excessive price. I do agree that cars older than 7 to 10 years normally have weak springs and going the Quick struts route is usually the best option given the reliability of the strut tops rattling and making noise. One of the other major problems is when someone tops fuel up to full it causes the onboard vapor recovery system that is on the top of the fuel tank to get filled with fuel and damages it, also usually the first sign is that they complain about not being able to fill the tank up without having the lever click off without hardly any fuel being put in the car at all.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
out of money on the acount, thx for the feedback. They want to charge me to accept answer, I had paid for unlimited questions for a month, but I guess thats over. Ill talk to you in the future.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

No problem you have been very generous. Do not need to click the accept button we are square. Let me know how it goes. If you need help in the future just ask for me Skyvisions in the question and I will get back to you.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hope you had a nice thanksgiving. Ready for round two? One other problem on this toyota is when it runs the transmision will not engage in any gear. I don't think the pump is running. When I originally pulled the motor I left the transmision in. It didn't want to seperate from the trans. I think the torque converter got pulled outward from the keyway of the pump. So I gotta pull the motor again. NO big deal. When I pull the motor I am going to pull the wiring harness so I can run some resistance tests.

 

WHen I pull the motor I am going to leave the trans hooked up this time and seperate on the bench so I can inspect the pump and torque converter.

 

While everything is apart I can really look at the wiring harness. I think that is the reason for all my ignition problems. WHat do you think?

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

When you remove the torque converter from the transmission make sure you check the gears of the oil pump so that they were not damaged if you did not have them aligned correctly and bolted the transmission to the engine.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
hey have you had any toyota corolas 1.8 liter with dohc. I have had several that I change the oil every 3,000 miles. When they come in for their oil change there is less than 1 qt of oil in motor at drain time. what would cause this? and there is no white smoke coming out of exhaust.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

The 1.8 L engine used in the Toyota Corolla and the Celica from 1998 through about 2002 had major problems with the piston rings. The engines were designed for low sulfur content fuels. The federal government did not stick to their word what a shock that is, and force the oil refineries to reduce the sulfur content. This in turn caused the sulfur to destroy the newly designed rings that were not supposed to have high sulfur fuels. You normally will not see any smoking from the exhaust because the converter does such a good job of cleaning up hydrocarbons. The long and short of it is the short block will have to be replaced or in some cases I have been able to hone the cylinder walls and installed new piston rings but this is not recommended usually there is too much cylinder bore wear.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
When you say short bolck can you explain more? Do you mean the upper end of the motor? Thintake and exhaust camshafits or do you mean everything under ther head of the motor. Can you explain how this is done? The term long and short are confusing me?BASICALLY what parts do you removed from the car? DO you send them to a machine shop and replace piston rings? Or can this be done in shop? I can work on motors but the farthest I usaully do internally is no further than the valve cover gaskets, timing chains and vvtiming sprockets on intake camshafts, But have never torn one of these apart below the camshafts? A little guidence from an expert like yourself I think I can do these? Because I see a lot of them!!
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Short block is the low half of the engine minus the head. YOu are basically looking at an overhaul when it is said and done. The engine has to be removed. Most people that attempt the honing of the cylinders do it in house. Toyota sells a complete short block assembly but they are not cheap. Go to www.techinfo.toyota.com and for $15 you can get a 2 day subscription and get all the removal and tear down info in PDF format and anything else you could want. Make sure you do the valve guide seal also use only toyota seals.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
hey thanks again i have to send youa picture of this one cuz i got one more question
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

OKAY

 

Skyvisions

Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 12924
Experience: Toyota Master Diagnostic
Skyvisions and 7 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
graphic
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
graphic
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
DO you see the metal race. It came apart. I am going to replace the intake camshaft butam worried there is excessive motor damage to this car. Would you suggest anything else?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I know you will give me some good info and Im gonna put some money in the acount.
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Remove the 3-12 mm bolts and lift the cam cap up and take a picture of the inside of the cam and the camshaft cap and post that or me.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I ordered the camshaft and it will be hear tuesday. I wont have acess to take any more pictures till then. From the looks of this I think this motor has been thru hell! Do those caps work as bearings? I wasn't thinking, and am new to internal motor rebuilding. I think this motor could uses a lot of r/r. I will get back to you then. Have you ever seen a race come apart off A crankshaft like that? It looks to me like there was lot of heat.

 

 

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

Based on the picture it looks like the camshaft has spun or started to gather material on the forward larger cam cap. This larger cap with the three bolts is basically the upper bearing and the cylinder head is a lower bearing there are no bearing inserts for the camshaft. If it is started to gather or collect material do not put a new camshaft in the cylinder head the cylinder head will be junk. And if you're using large amounts of oil you're probably not going to be able to rebuild this engine.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

SO if you change a camshaft I guess you need to change the bearings as well? The bearings being the head and the cap. would it make sense to change the cylender head/ or send to a machine shop and caps or are you thinking there is going to be more to it then that?

 

Because of oil consumption and camshaft issue I guess I need to do the longblock or swap out this motor for a know good one? (based on the customers budget).

 

I just want to make sure you did see the metal piece on the cam that is between the sprocket and the first lobe? It is very shiny. Look at the exaust cam do you see the difference between the two? That is the issue.I can physically move that washer or ring with my hand. I am worried that it is going to hit the lobe while rotating. That is the issue. we did a valve cover gasket and noticed it was just sittin there loosly. What would you do skyvision? or do you need to see that picture to tell me more?

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

There are no bearings for the camshaft. The caps and the cylinder head ride directly on the camshaft. If there is any scoring of the camshaft or these journals in the cylinder head then they need to be replaced. From the looks of this engine you're probably going to be better off trying to find a good used engine that they will guarantee is not using oil. That piece that you're referring to that is spinning on the camshaft is the thrust shoulder or collar is broken off from the camshaft. That front journal is what keeps the camshaft from moving left to right. The only way this can happen is if that front journal in the cylinder head which based on the picture and the metal fragments along the edge of the bearing is seizing up and Is probably the case. The cylinder head is no good.

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
excelleny answer man. thanks again!!!! I hope you recieved a payment from me. you have been a huge help! Thats what I have to explain to the customer and to my boss in case they want a second opinion. The crazy thing is this car runs good and has no check engine lights. Had I not replaced the valve cover I never would have known. Ill keep in touch and I may look into that toyota sight as well. I think your saying leave this one alone and I will. Ill let you know what happens!
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hello skyvisions! long time know talk.

 

I did a timing belt and water pump on a 2002 toyota land cruiser 4.7 liter. I replaced tensioner and idler pully also. It runs great. The customer took the vehicle for two days and put on about 120 miles and the check engine light vsc light and vss light came on.

 

Any suggestions or do you need more info

Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.

The VSC lights come on by default with the check engine light. Do you have the engine code numbers?

 

Skyvisions

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I figured you were going to ask. The customer did notr bring car back yet. Will get back to you then. Thanks
Expert:  Skyvisions replied 3 years ago.
Let me know.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Customer brought car back. I found the po340 code. The cam sensor was plugged in only 3/4 of the way. I Plugged in all the way. Prob lem solved. Thanks anyway but I figured this one out. I will get a hold of you next time I need your toyota expertise. Good to knop you still here

JustAnswer in the News:

 
 
 
Ask-a-doc Web sites: If you've got a quick question, you can try to get an answer from sites that say they have various specialists on hand to give quick answers... Justanswer.com.
JustAnswer.com...has seen a spike since October in legal questions from readers about layoffs, unemployment and severance.
Web sites like justanswer.com/legal
...leave nothing to chance.
Traffic on JustAnswer rose 14 percent...and had nearly 400,000 page views in 30 days...inquiries related to stress, high blood pressure, drinking and heart pain jumped 33 percent.
Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
I will tell you that...the things you have to go through to be an Expert are quite rigorous.
 
 
 

What Customers are Saying:

 
 
 
  • THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! I've got my baby back. Tomorrow I will get a tank of high octane, remove the top, go for a long long ride and enjoy my car. THANK YOU! Jughead USA
< Last | Next >
  • THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! I've got my baby back. Tomorrow I will get a tank of high octane, remove the top, go for a long long ride and enjoy my car. THANK YOU! Jughead USA
  • Wonderful service, prompt, efficient, and accurate. Couldn't have asked for more. I cannot thank you enough for your help. Mary C. Freshfield, Liverpool, UK
  • This expert is wonderful. They truly know what they are talking about, and they actually care about you. They really helped put my nerves at ease. Thank you so much!!!! Alex Los Angeles, CA
  • Thank you for all your help. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. GP Hesperia, CA
  • I couldn't be more satisfied! This is the site I will always come to when I need a second opinion. Justin Kernersville, NC
  • Just let me say that this encounter has been entirely professional and most helpful. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Esther Woodstock, NY
  • Thank you so much for taking your time and knowledge to support my concerns. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. Robin Elkton, Maryland
 
 
 

Meet The Experts:

 
 
 
  • Chris (aka-Moose)

    Auto Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    278
    16 years of experience
< Last | Next >
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MU/muddyford/2012-6-13_1204_1.64x64.png Chris (aka-Moose)'s Avatar

    Chris (aka-Moose)

    Auto Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    278
    16 years of experience
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/EU/eurotec/2012-6-11_13153_mpjaphoto.64x64.JPG Marty's Avatar

    Marty

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    167
    ASE & Bosch Master Tech. 30 years experience.
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/AM/amedee/2013-10-24_23656_Amedee1.64x64.jpg Amedee's Avatar

    Amedee

    Toyota Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    1132
    ASE Master Technician advanced level specialist. Wisconsin certified emissions state inspector
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/CA/caprio23/2014-4-30_201741_20121205122939.64x64.jpg Anthony's Avatar

    Anthony

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    373
    ASE Master Automobile Technician with over 20 years exp. in this field.
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/CR/crzydrvr00/2013-11-3_12123_246347.64x64.jpg Richard's Avatar

    Richard

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    9
    Toyota tech. ASE Certified Technician
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/SK/skyvisions/2012-6-9_23736_JACropped3.64x64.jpg Skyvisions's Avatar

    Skyvisions

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    11403
    Toyota Master Diagnostic
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/genchigenbutsu/2009-05-09_003043_cimg16431.jpg Genchi Genbutsu's Avatar

    Genchi Genbutsu

    Toyota Master Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    3425
    Toyota Certified Master Diagnostic Technician, ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced Engine