Toyota Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
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Where is the click coming from? Auto or manual trans? Do you have a voltmeter and an average understanding of how to use it?
yes here is the issue just bought the car and of course problems the first day, Iunderstand is used and old, most likey cause was the starter contacts in the selonoid, assumed starter
checked the battery and connections, when turning the ignition there was just a click a few times, replaced the starter, well have the same issue , like I said maybe bad ground to the engine, a few different things I do, and it finally turns over and starts, moving from park to neutral, moving the sterring wheel, I taped on the new starter did not go..
if you any suggestions I am open, possibly ignition switch, looks like this sterring colume was tamppered with before.. I do know how to read and use a voltmeter.
auto transmition. tomorrow I am getting into this no work ye ha... clicking sounds like under the hood tough to tell in the car.. 2 days in a row it started no problem, then shut it off intermiten thought it was just at cold starts but not...
click click thanks for the help...
How the system works is the ignition switch sends 12 volts through the 5 amp starter fuse then goes to the NSW on the front side of the transmission. through the contact points of the NSW and out the black wire and back to the soil winding of the starter relay and to ground causing the coil windings to energize and close the contact points of the relay sending power to the solenoid of the starter to engage it. It the click /clunk is coming from the starter it is either defective or the power cable to the main post has high resistance ie corrosion.
It is not likely the ignition switch they never go bad that is unless some has messed with it. The first thing to do when it is in the no start condition ie clicking is determine exactly where the clicking is coming from then remove the large connector at the NSW and place a jumper wire in the 2 female pins of the connector. These are the black wire and the black wire with a white line. They are in the middle of the connector and are the larger gage wires. This will rule out the NSW. Then verify if 12 volts is getting to the relay by way of this wire. Then check the relay or swap with another relay of the same configuration. Then check for 12 volts to the engagement wire at the starter. Let me know what you find. Obviously check the ground connection to the case of the transmission for corrosion or paint under the bolt fastener.
I will let you know what happens , get into it tomorrow,, what exactly is the NSW sorry
lots of rain coming, hope it holds off. A friend is helping, so we can here where this click is coming from.. very detailed thanks let you know Rick
NSW is Neutral Safety Switch sorry. This is located on the front side of the trans behind where the lever attaches for the shifter. There are Known to get corroded.
thanks lol thought so, I refer it too the NSS the relay u are talking about is the starter relay correct? where is that located? this is why I wanted the schematics to check all this out, I do not have a repair manual, so not familer with where these components
are located, If I can figure this out, you will be taken care of well, I think your expertise
is well worth it.. thanks again Rick
our next project will be the wifes 01 camry with only 48k on it you believe that..
few issues with that also.. think she needs a new master cylider..
Yes I am referring to the starter relay. Starter relay as I recall is in the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood. Inside the lid there is a label of all of the fuses and relays. Unfortunately cannot post any direct wiring diagrams. There are some online websites that you can purchase two day subscriptions and download PDFs but they're having issues and unable to gather information right now.
thanks for the help, checked the main ground to the tranny cover, it was fine, the clicking noise was coming right from the starter, all my years of working on cars, never bought a bad starter well guess what it was, went and got another one and the car is fine so far, actually when it click I left the key turned and it started smoking, also when it click we hit the starter and it started,, at least this time we got it out in a half hour,
why could you not get the wirng diagrams, I have got them before.. scan them right?
anyway appreciate the help again.
I have another question with the 01 toyota camry, I think it has a bad master cylinder
reason is I have bled the lines all new fluid, new pads and rotors all around, and the brake pedal goes way to low still, almost to the floor, not good,
do I need to close thsi one out and pay you, and start a new one, or can we continue
I have a few more, what is with the 13 bucks a month with unlimited questions, we just
give you guys a tip?
Copy right issues. If you want actual diagrams and all the pdf info on your car in the future you can go to www.techinfo.toyota.com and for $15 dollars you can get a 2 day subscription and down load all the toyota pdf files you like.
Not familiar with the $13 a month and unlimited answers. This is not by me! You can provide a tip/bonus at the end. Per the camry was the pedal low and spongy before the pads and rotors were done?
yes they have never been up where they should be in a few years, the 99 corolla
the brakes feel much better, I mean a lot better, looking under the hood, the corolla looks like a new master cylinder. how can I test this,, no lose of fluid. I did replace one caliper in the back., on the camary it is non stop for me, I have an 05 trailblazer nothing but trouble with this thing.. LOL thanks for all the help Rick
Normally a master cylinder will either have fade away when you pump the pedal then hold with slight pressure it will slowly sag. The only way to check the master cylinder is with the brake line pressure gage system. The biggest problem with low pedal yet firm pedal is the caliper pins or the pads start to bind and allow to mush fluid to push them against the rotors. In a few occasions I have see the equalizer valves go bad but this normally is indicated by very low pressure or flow to one of the calipers. Double check all the caliper pins and make sure the pads are free in the holders. Take the wheels off and have some one pump the pedal and watch the calipers and see if there is excessive movement.