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Do you have a voltmeter and a reasonable knowledge of how to use it to run some tests?
Do you have 12 V going to the light green wire and the green wire at the door lock switch in the master control switch or the passenger door lock switch? When you press the door switch on either door to the lock or unlock position do these voltages on these two wires go to 0 V? In the locked position the light green wire should show 0 V in the unlock position the green wire should show 0 V otherwise both have 12 V. A real common problem is the wires that go between the door and the body that run inside the rubber boot have a tendency to break. If you use the key in the passenger outside door lock cylinder can you make the drivers door lock motor actuate by locking or unlocking from the passenger side?
Just to clarify you're saying that you do not have power at the green wire or the light green wire at the master control switch for the power door locks? Make sure that you check these voltages with the switch disconnected. If you apply power and ground to the pins on the actuator motor that correspond with the blue wire with a red tracer and the blue wire with a black tracer can you make the door lock actuator motor lock and unlock alternately? How the system works is when the light green wire is grounded by pushing the door lock switch to the locked position this sends a signal to the integration relay to supply power and ground to the blue wire with a red tracer and the blue wire with a black tracer to alternately lock the actuator motor. When you push the door lock switch to the unlocked position this grounds the green wire the same thing happens in the integration relay only the polarity is reversed to the actuator motor. Check these things let me know what you find. Make sure that you have a known good master control switch and door lock actuator and double check your wires in the rubber boot between the door and the body.
If there is no power to the green wire and the light green wire going to the master control switch this means the integration relay is not sending power to the master control switch. Either the relay is bad or the wires are broken between the switch and the integration relay which is incorporated into the back of the instrument panel fuse block. If the other door lock on the passenger side is working all of the other door locks except the drivers door and if the drivers door power door lock is working all of the other doors except the drivers door then this would have to indicate there is a problem with the actuator motor itself for the drivers door. The passenger door lock switch uses the same green wire and light green wire to activate and deactivate the lock control solenoid by way of the integration relay.
hi skyvision thank you for you time do you mind if you tell me intergration relay locate and how do i replace it
I check the wiring connector from the master switch connector (with master switch disconnect) and other side of wiring harness from the drive side kick panel the female connector (same wiring harness from the master switch connector ) I use power probe to test it light green wiring and green wiring they both has 0.6 v I think they should be ground but i do not know thank you for you time i will ACCEPT ANSWER the answer when you get back to me
The relay itself is snapped into the back of the instrument panel junction block. If the door locks work and the drivers door specifically locks and unlocks with the switch in the passenger door is not likely a problem in integration really it is more likely a problem in the wiring from the switch to the integration relay on the driver's door.
thank you skyvisions