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Does the spark jump a good 3/8 pf an inch from the end of the plug wire to ground and is bright blue? Do you have the integrated coil in the distributer or separate? Are there any engine codes set in the computer?
If the check engine light flashed continuously then there are no code set in the system. This would probably rule out the pickup coils in the base of the distributor. If you have already installed the new ignition coil than that would rule out the ignition coil. The ignition coils on this engine are known to go bad and will fit the description that you have described above.. The compression does seem a little low general this engine will be 180 to 190 psi. It would be unlikely that the timing belt has jumped time but you should consider looking at that. If you are certain that ignition coil is sparking to the plug wires and you have sufficient compression the only other thing would be to make sure that the injectors are clicking or cycling. How do the spark plugs look are they went with fuel?
The injectors will click and pulse as you're cranking the engine over. It is difficult to hear them with an audible stethoscope or the old screwdriver handle to you your trick. You may want to consider disconnecting a couple of the connectors and use a test light across the two female pins or if you have a 195 peanut light bulb you can bend the tabs down and stick these into the female pins of the electrical connector and see if the bulb pulses when the engine is cranking over.
NONE! It is very unlikely that all for injectors are not clicking. If you apply power and ground to the two terminals simultaneously at the injector it should click. Are you certain that you're getting fuel pressure? I have to step out for a few hours I will check back with you this evening. Double check your camshaft timing to crankshaft correlation make sure the timing belt has not slipped or jump time I am a little concerned about the 150 psi.
If it only jumps one or two teeth you will lose 30 to 40 pounds of compression but will not backfire. There is probably little chance that is a bad engine control computer. They rarely ever go bad. I would like to see the compression a little bit higher provided your gage is accurate. If I were you I would at least pull the top cover off there is only five or six bolts holding it in place with the crankshaft at 0° top dead center and look through the hole in the web of the cam gear and make sure it lines up with the slot in the cam cap at the 12 o'clock position on the engine. If you have good spark and it is on time and you have compression this only leaves fuel being sprayed from the injectors. Make sure that you have injector pulse and the injectors are clicking. Verify that the timing belt is in place and timed correctly then let me know what you have and we can go from here.
As a test you may want to remove the intake boot at the throttle body open the throttle plate and spray some starting fluid into the intake manifold to see if you can get it to light up and try to start when you first crank.
The dot to the left is not the TDC mark you want the one that is a larger Groove at the 12 O'clock position. Did you confirm the injector pulse? If you shot starting fluid in the intake it should have at least tried to start. This means the spark is not there or the compression is not right.
Based on your description yes the timing belt and camshaft time should be correct. If the compression is then good this only leaves you with weak spark because the starting fluid should try it at least start the vehicle when it is cranked over are you 100% certain that the spark coming from the end of each plug wire will jump at least 3/8 of an inch and his bright blue? Use a screwdriver in the end of the plug wire and take the shank of the screwdriver near a ground source and see how the spark looks.
If the igniter or the ECM are bad they would be setting a malfunction code in the computer. ECMs rarely ever go bad I do on occasion find a bad igniter but normally you will see a code for that set. I'm not a real big fan of aftermarket ignition coils are you certain that the ignition coil is good and is connected correctly? With the distributor cap off can you get spark to come out of the end of the coil to a jumper wire to ground? Are you 100% certain that the distributor cap is good? Likewise the wires?
I will check the new coil tomorrow, I am tired. Thank you so much for your patience.
You're welcome. Let me know how things go tomorrow.
Your resistant specifications are correct if you have no resistance through the primary side of the ignition coil that this would explain why you have no spark. I would recommend that you purchase a Toyota ignition coil.
Thanks. I will let you know.
I'll be here.
You are welcome. Glad it is running your daughter will be happy. If you need anything in the future just ask for me Skyvisions, in the question and I will get back to you.