Check the AM2 fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Is it popped? If it is let me know and we can go from here. What color wire did you check for power at the coil in the distributer or do you have a late production camry with 2 coil packs?
The car is stuck in a parking lot, i will go check the fuse.
I'm not sure if it has 2 coils. It does have an igniter right next to the coil.
I checked for power at the coil with a voltmeter, one terminal to ground, the other on the different metal tabs where the wires plug in. There was no power on any. Is the coil the small black box on the driver's side fender that has a wire that leads to the center of the distributer?
Anything else I should check, since I have to drive to the car's location?
Are you in the USA? The external coil style ignition system is very rare but yes that would be ignition coil if that is the style that you have. Check to make sure the check engine light is coming on with the key in the on position. Was this car ever jumpstarted backwards even for a split second. If you post a picture of where you checked for power and where you're saying the blackbox is that would be helpful. 1996 was a transition year for the ignition systems depending on the production data your car.
Yes, I am in the usa, but I do have a Camry that was built in Japan. I don't think the car has ever been jumpstarted backwards.
I will go check the fuse and take a picture.
Let me know what you can find.
Okay now we are on the same page. That is ignition coil that has the single ignition wire going into it. You are saying with a volt meter and ignition key in the on position you have no voltage at either of the female pins in that connector that goes onto the ignition coil correct? If you have the vehicle identification number that also would be handy. You said this was a Japan production Camry?
Duh! I was checking the male pins. Of course they would have no voltage!
Yes, It is a Japan Camry vin # XXXXX XXXXX
Do I need to go back and check the female pins?
You need to determine whether not you have power at the ignition coil. That is correct at the connector female pins. Not a problem easy mistake to make. If you have access to a scan tool it would be nice know if there are any codes set in the computer causing any malfunctions. These can be rented from some local parts stores. I will check into some things further. I need to step out for a couple of hours for dinner I will be back on later this evening so there's no rush to run back and check for power at the ignition coil. Let me know when you do and I'll get back to you later this evening.
If you are cranking the engine over are you getting any spark from the ignition wire that goes from the coil to the distributor? If you remove the coil wire by unsnapping the connector cap and pulling the wire out of the distributor and hold it approximately one quarter of an inch to any ground such as the brake line or master cylinder and have somebody crank the engine over do you get a bright blue Spark? Try and wear a pair of gloves were insulate yourself so you do not get shocked it won't hurt you unless you're wearing a pacemaker but it will get your attention. Let me know if the coil is generating any spark. Were you able to determine if there are any codes set in the computer with a scan tool? Make sure that you have everything plugged back in when you're checking for spark. Does the engine seem to crank over normally or does it seem to crank over extremely fast or faster than usual based on a sound?
I'm done for tonight. Need to pass out candy to trick or treaters.
I will check for spark on the coil wire on sunday.
I have not checked for codes. The battery was disconnected, will any codes be stored? The check engine light did come on right before the trouble started.
The engine crank speed is normal.
Thanks for your help and happy Halloween!
If he engine crank speed is normal there is a safe bet that the timing belt is still intact. Even if the battery cable was disconnected and you have a hard fail code it will set immediately in the computer when you're cranking the engine and it does not start. We need to determine if your getting spark and if your getting fuel pressure. Ideally it would be nice to know if there any codes set in the computer also. These are the first three things that have to be determined and rule out when diagnosing a no start condition. Let me know what you find tomorrow I will be monitoring on and off most of the afternoon.
There is no spark on the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. I did reconnect the wires to the coil and wore a glove as you suggested.
I found these codes:
These tests were done with the air filter removed to gain access.
I replaced the fuel filter yesterday. I don't know if the fuel is making it to the engine, but it is making it to the filter. I know because it leaked when cranking the engine. I was able to fix the leak by tightening the line in to the filter.
A P0110 is for the air intake temperature sensor. This probably got set if you have ignition key on with the mass airflow sensor disconnected. I would not be concerned about this code is probably is a false code and would not cause the engine to not start. The reason the car is not starting is because of the P1300 code. This code means that the igniter is not doing its job or the ignition coil is not strong enough to trigger the transistors in the igniter.
The computer sends out a trigger signal (IGt) to the igniter. The igniter turns on the ground circuit to energize the secondary portion of the coil. When the coil field collapses the induced voltage trips the IGf signal to confirm that the coil fired and this signal is reported to the computer by way of the IGf wire/input. If the computer does not see IGf it shuts down the injectors. The P1300 code sets as a result. In order to diagnose this circuit the best way is with an oscilloscope. Most good mechanics do not know how to use one let alone an average automobile owner. All of this being said there is a possibility of ignition coil could be bad. If you Ohm test across the two male pins of the ignition coil once you have the connector disconnected you should have less than .8 ohms resistance. Then measuring the secondary resistance from either of the two male pins to the terminal inside the coil where the ignition wire goes should have 9K to 15.5K ohms resistance. It may be slightly higher a hot day. There is no real accurate test for the igniter short of having an oscilloscope. I never recommend just throwing parts at a vehicle to make it run but if you cannot afford to pay diagnostic fees and have to try something the ignition coil is the cheaper of the two components. You can purchase the ignition coil and the igniter online by going to www.MetroToyotapartsnow.com you can purchase at wholesale prices. I do not recommend aftermarket parts when it comes to coils and igniters. Let me know what you find.
I tried replacing the coil and it still would not start. I had the car towed and will need to take it to the shop today.
Thanks for your help.
If you are still getting the P1300 code then you're going to have to have the igniter tested and the wiring to it to make sure that there's not an issue with that. If you need a second opinion after visiting the shop feel to free post back here and I will give you my best input on what they tell you.