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22R Engine

See Figures 1 through 11

WARNING Do not perform this operation on a warm engine. Allow the engine to cool a minimum of 3 hours, more in hot weather. Overnight cold is best.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system (both radiator and block). If the coolant is to be reused, place a large, clean container underneath the drains.

CAUTION When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant may be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

1. Remove the three exhaust pipe flange nuts and separate the pipe from the manifold.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly, complete with hoses, from the carburetor.

Cover the carburetor with a clean shop cloth so that nothing can fall into it.

1. Drain the engine oil.

CAUTION Used motor oil may cause skin cancer if repeatedly left in contact with the skin for prolonged periods. Although this is unlikely unless you handle oil on a daily basis, it is wise to thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water immediately after handling used motor oil.

1. Disconnect the radiator inlet hose from the water outlet.
2. If equipped with an air pump, disconnect the air hose from the check valve.
3. Disconnect the two heater hoses from the engine.
4. Disconnect the accelerator cable at the carburetor.
5. Label and disconnect these wires:
   
   EGR temperature sensor (Calif. vehicles only) Water temperature gauge sender Cold mixture heater wire Temperature sensor Fuel cut solenoid valve EACV (Calif. only)
   
6. Label and disconnect these hoses and lines:
   
   Charcoal canister Brake booster Main fuel line from fuel inlet Fuel return line HAC from the bracket Electronic Bleed Air Control Valve (EBCV) Calif. vehicles Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) with bracket
   
7. Remove the rear ground strap from the engine.
8. Remove the distributor.
9. Remove the spark plugs.
10. Disconnect the power steering bracket from the head.
11. Remove the valve cover and gasket.
12. Turn the engine clockwise (use the crank pulley bolt) until the piston is at TDC on its compression stroke. Matchmark the timing sprocket to the cam chain, and remove the semi-circular plug. Remove the cam sprocket bolt. Slide the distributor drive gear and spacer off the cam. Leave the chain on the sprocket; either wire the cam sprocket in place just off the end of the cam or rest the sprocket on the vibration damper. Tie a string or wire to the chain to keep it from falling in the engine.

Fig. Fig. 1: Set the timing marks to TDC on the No.1 cylinder; matchmark the chain and sprocket

Fig. Fig. 2: Using a 19mm wrench, remove the cam sprocket bolt

Fig. Fig. 3: Do not allow the chain to slip off while removing the sprocket

Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the front cover bolt before loosening the cylinder head bolts

1. Remove the timing chain cover bolt at the front of the head. This must be done before the head bolts are removed.
2. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the correct order. Make two or three passes to loosen the bolts. Do not loosen any one bolt all at once; improper removal could cause head damage.

Fig. Fig. 5: Loosen the head bolts in this order, in three passes

1. Using prybars applied evenly at the front and the rear of the valve rocker assembly, gently pry the assembly off its mounting dowels.
2. Lift the head off its dowels. If it is difficult to lift off, pry gently with small tools. Do NOT damage the mating surfaces of the head or block. Do NOT attempt to slide the head off the block; it must be lifted.

Fig. Fig. 6: Lift the old gasket from the block

Fig. Fig. 7: Scrape and clean the area well, insert paper into the cylinder walls to keep dirt from entering

1. Support the head on a workbench.
2. Remove the manifolds and EGR valve from the head on the workbench. Keep the head covered and the manifold ports plugged with rags when not working on it.
3. Re-drain the oil pan after the head has been removed; coolant will have spilled into the pan during head removal. The coolant will pollute the oil.
4. Remove the head gasket, never reuse the old one.

To install:

1. Apply liquid sealer to the front corners of the block and install the head gasket.
2. Lower the head over the locating dowels. Do not attempt to slide it into place.
3. Install the rocker arm assembly over its positioning dowels.
4. Install the cylinder head bolts. Tighten the bolts sequentially in three passes and in the correct order, coming to final torque on the last pass. Correct tightness is 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

Fig. Fig. 8: Apply liquid sealer to the corners of the block

Fig. Fig. 9: Tighten the head bolts in this order, in three passes

Fig. Fig. 10: Always tighten the bolts with a torque wrench

1. Install the chain cover bolt. Tighten it to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
2. Hold the chain and sprocket; double check that the engine is set to No. 1 TDC. If necessary, manually rotate the engine so that the sprocket hole is also at the top.
3. Fit the sprocket over the camshaft dowel. If the chain won't allow the sprocket to reach, rotate the crankshaft back and forth, while lifting up on the chain and sprocket.
4. Install the distributor drive gear and cam thrust plate over the chain sprocket; tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).

Fig. Fig. 11: Exploded view of the cylinder head components on the 22R and 22R-E engines

1. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke and adjust the valves.
2. Apply sealant only the cylinder head side of the half-circle plug; install the plug.
3. Install the valve cover
4. Attach the power steering bracket and compressor support to the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm)
5. Install the power steering belt and adjust the tension.
6. Install the distributor. Install the spark plugs.
7. Connect the rear ground strap.
8. Install the lines and hoses disconnected:
   
   Charcoal canister Brake booster Main fuel line from fuel inlet Fuel return line HAC from the bracket Electronic Bleed Air Control Valve (EBCV) Calif. vehicles Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) with bracket
   
9. Connect the wires removed:
   
   EGR temperature sensor (Calif. vehicles only) Water temperature gauge sender Cold mixture heater wire Temperature sensor Fuel cut solenoid valve EACV (Calif. only)
   
10. Attach the accelerator cable.
11. Connect the air pump hose to the check valve if it was removed.
12. Connect the 2 heater hoses and install the radiator hose to the water outlet.
13. Use a new gasket and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. New nuts are recommended.
14. Install the air cleaner and connect the hoses.
15. Refill the engine oil and engine coolant.
16. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
18. Start the engine, allowing it to idle and warm up gradually.
19. Shut the engine OFF . Readjust the valves.
20. Restart the engine and adjust the timing as necessary.
21. Recheck the fluid levels.
22. Road test the vehicle for general performance and driveability.

22R-E Engine

See Figures 1 through 11

CAUTION Never perform this operation on a hot engine. Allow the engine to cool a minimum of 3 hours, more in hot weather. Overnight cold is best.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the coolant from the radiator and the cylinder block. Drain the engine oil.

1. Remove the air intake connector.
2. Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire.
3. Remove the three nuts attaching the manifold to the exhaust pipe and then separate the two.
4. Remove the oil dipstick.
5. Remove the distributor with the spark plug leads attached. Remove the spark plugs.
6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose and the two heater hoses where they attach to the engine and then position them out of the way.
7. Disconnect the actuator cable, the accelerator cable and the throttle cable for the automatic transmission at their brackets.
8. Tag and disconnect the following:
   
   Both PCV vacuum hoses Brake booster hose Actuator hose (if equipped with cruise control) Air control valve hoses (with power steering) Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) hoses (with air conditioning) Evaporative emissions (EVAP) hoses EGR valve hose fuel pressure hose Reed valve hose Pressure regulator hose Vacuum hoses from throttle body Water bypass hoses from throttle body
   
9. Tag and disconnect the EGR vacuum modulator hoses and then remove the modulator itself along with the bracket.
10. Disconnect the following wires:
    
    Cold start injector pipe and wire Throttle position sensor wire EGR temperature sensor (Calif. vehicles)
    
11. Disconnect the cold start injector pipe from the intake chamber. Remove the bolt holding the EGR pipe to the air chamber. Disconnect the chamber from the stay. Remove the air chamber-to-intake manifold bolts and then lift off the chamber with the throttle body, resonator and gasket.
12. Disconnect the fuel return hose.
13. Tag and disconnect the following wires:
    
    Knock sensor Oil pressure sender gauge or switch Starter wire Transmission wires Compressor wires (with air conditioning) Injector wires Water temperature sender gauge wire Overdrive temperature switch wire (auto. trans.) Igniter wire Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) wires Cold start injector time switch wire Water temperature sensor wire
    
14. Disconnect the bypass hose at the intake manifold.
15. If equipped with power steering, remove the pump and position it out of the way without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.
16. Remove the power steering bracket from the cylinder head.
17. Remove the valve cover.

Be sure to cover the oil return hole in the cylinder head with a clean rag to prevent anything from falling in.

1. Turn the engine clockwise (use the crank pulley bolt) until the No. 1 piston is at TDC on its compression stroke. Matchmark the timing sprocket to the cam chain, and remove the semi-circular plug. Remove the cam sprocket bolt. Slide the distributor drive gear and spacer off the cam. Leave the chain on the sprocket; either wire the cam sprocket in place just off the end of the cam or rest the sprocket on the vibration damper.
2. Remove the timing chain cover bolt at the front of the head. This must be done before the head bolts are removed.
3. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the correct order. Make two or three passes to loosen the bolts. Do not loosen any one bolt all at once; improper removal could cause head damage.

Refer to the bolt removal diagram for the 22R engine. All illustrations for the 22R are valid for the 22R-E.

1. Using prybars applied evenly at the front and the rear of the valve rocker assembly, gently pry the assembly off its mounting dowels.
2. Lift the head off its dowels. If it is difficult to lift off, pry gently with small tools. Do NOT damage the mating surfaces of the head or block. Do NOT attempt to slide the head off the block; it must be lifted.
3. Support the head on a workbench.
4. Remove the manifolds and EGR valve from the head on the workbench. Keep the head covered and the manifold ports plugged with rags when not working on it.
5. Re-drain the oil pan after the head has been removed; coolant will have spilled into the pan during head removal. The coolant will pollute the oil.

To install:

1. Apply liquid sealer to the front corners of the block and install the head gasket. 29'>
2. Lower the head over the locating dowels. Do not attempt to slide it into place.
3. Install the rocker arm assembly over its positioning dowels.
4. Install the cylinder head bolts. Tighten the bolts sequentially in three passes and in the correct order, coming to final torque on the last pass. Correct tightness is 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

Refer to the bolt tightening diagram for the 22R engine. All illustrations for the 22R are valid for the 22R-E.

1. Install the chain cover bolt. Tighten it to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
2. Hold the chain and sprocket; double check that the engine is set to No. 1 TDC. If necessary, manually rotate the engine so that the sprocket hole is also at the top.
3. Fit the sprocket over the camshaft dowel. If the chain won't allow the sprocket to reach, rotate the crankshaft back and forth, while lifting up on the chain and sprocket.
4. Install the distributor drive gear and cam thrust plate over the chain sprocket; tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
5. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke and adjust the valves.
6. Apply sealant only the cylinder head side of the half-circle plug; install the plug.
7. Install the valve cover.
8. Attach the power steering bracket to the head; tighten the 4 bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
9. Install the power steering pump and belt. Adjust the belt.
10. Connect the bypass hose to the intake manifold.
11. Connect the fuel hose to the delivery pipe. Tighten the bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
12. Connect the wires removed:
    
    Knock sensor Oil pressure sender gauge or switch Starter wire Transmission wires Compressor wires (with air conditioning) Injector wires Water temperature sender gauge wire Overdrive temperature switch wire (auto. trans.) Igniter wire Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) wires Cold start injector time switch wire Water temperature sensor wire Cold start injector pipe and wire Throttle position sensor wire EGR temperature sensor (Calif. vehicles)
    
13. Connect the fuel return hose.
14. Position new gaskets on the intake manifold and EGR pipe. Install the air intake chamber, throttle body and resonator. Install the bolts holding the EGR valve to the chamber. Use a new gasket and install the cold start injector pipe.
15. Connect the throttle position wire, the cold start injector wire and the EGR temperature sensor wire (Calif. only)
16. Install the EGR vacuum modulator.
17. Connect the hoses removed:
    
    Both PCV vacuum hoses Brake booster hose Actuator hose (if equipped with cruise control) Air control valve hoses (with power steering) Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) hoses (with air conditioning) Evaporative emissions (EVAP) hoses EGR valve hose Fuel pressure hose Reed valve hose Pressure regulator hose Vacuum hoses from throttle body Water bypass hoses from throttle body
    
18. Connect the rear ground strap.
19. Connect the throttle and accelerator cables.
20. Install the heater hoses and the radiator inlet hose.
21. Install the spark plugs and the distributor. Install the engine oil dipstick.
22. Use new gaskets and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Don't forget the clamp.
23. Install the air intake connector
24. Refill the engine oil and engine coolant.
25. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
26. Connect the negative battery cable.
27. Start the engine, allowing it to idle and warm up gradually.
28. Turn the engine OFF . Readjust the valves.
29. Restart the engine and adjust the timing as necessary.
30. Recheck the fluid levels.
31. Road test the vehicle for general performance and driveability.

3F-E Engine

See Figures 12 through 17

1. Drain the engine coolant.

WARNING When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant may be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Scribe matchmarks around the hood hinges and then remove the hood.
3. Disconnect the accelerator and throttle cables.
4. Remove the hoses and parts as follows:
   
   Air intake Air flow meter Air cleaner cap ISC hose Air pump hose Distributor hose PCV hose Remove the 3 hoses from the rear of the intake chamber The 2 hoses from the charcoal canister vacuum valve
   
5. Unbolt the power steering pump and position it out of the way without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it out of the way without disconnecting the refrigerant lines. Use stiff wire or string to support the compressor; do not allow it to hang by the hoses.

Fig. Fig. 12: Loosen the rocker assembly bolts in several passes in this order

Fig. Fig. 13: Remove the pushrods and keep them in order

1. Remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor brackets.
2. Disconnect the high tension cords from the spark plugs and the coil.
3. Disconnect and remove the hoses from the water outlet, water pump, oil cooler and heater water pipe. Unbolt the oil cooler water pipe from the cylinder head.
4. Disconnect the upper radiator hose.
5. Disconnect and plug the fuel lines.
6. Raise the vehicle, making certain it is well supported. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
7. Remove the air pump.
8. Remove the fuel delivery pipe along with the fuel injectors.
9. Remove the air injection manifold.
10. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
11. Disconnect the water bypass hose at the water outlet and then remove the outlet assembly.
12. Remove the spark plugs.
13. Disconnect the water bypass hose from the water outlet. Remove the water outlet assembly.
14. Loosen the eight bolts and four nuts that attach the rocker shaft assembly in several stages and in the correct order. Remove the rocker shaft.
15. Remove the twelve pushrods, be sure they are kept in the order in which they were removed; they MUST be installed in the original locations. An upside-down box with holes punched in the bottom will make a good holder; number the holes to correspond with the pushrod position.

Fig. Fig. 14: Tighten the head bolts using this sequence in several passes to prevent head damage

Fig. Fig. 15: Tighten the rocker assembly bolts using this order in several passes

1. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages and in the opposite order of the tightening sequence. Remove the air pump bracket and engine hanger.

CAUTION Removing the head bolts in the improper order could cause damage to the aluminum cylinder head.

1. Lift the cylinder head off of its mounting dowels, Do NOT attempt to slide the head off; it must be lifted. Support the head on a workbench.

Fig. Fig. 16: A, B and C bolt locations

To install:

1. Lift the old gasket from the block, then scrape and clean the area well. Insert paper into the cylinder walls to keep dirt from entering.
2. Install the cylinder head on the cylinder block using a new gasket.
3. Lightly coat the threads of the cylinder head bolts with engine oil and then install them into the head. Tighten them in several stages, in the order shown.
4. Install the pushrods in the order that they were removed.
5. Position the rocker shaft assembly on the cylinder head and align the rocker arm adjusting screws with the heads of the pushrods. Tighten the mounting bolts with a 12mm head to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm); tighten the bolts with a 14mm head to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
6. Adjust the valve clearance and install the spark plugs.
7. Install the valve cover and tighten the cap nuts to 78 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
8. Install the water outlet and connect the bypass hose. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
9. Install the intake and exhaust manifolds using a new gasket. Make sure the front mark on the gasket is towards the front of the engine. Tighten the following:
   
   17mm bolts (A)-51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm) 14mm bolts (B)-37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) Nuts (C)-41 ft. lbs. (56 Nm)
   
10. Install the heat insulators and the manifold stay. Tighten the manifold heat shield bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm) and the manifold support bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
11. Install the air injection manifold and tighten the union nuts and clamp bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).