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I have a 95 Toyota Tacoma with 2.7 L , 4X4 When you push on the gas lightly it is fine, but if you push a little harder even about 1/2 throttle or a little less is will bog down and sputter and act like it is going to die. I have changed the fuel fillter and still nothing, just the same. Took the air filter off and tried without it and still the same. Changed the plugs and wires, still the same. What could it be ? Maybe the cat ? I'm lost and can't afford to bring it to a shop. Can you please help me ? Thank you, Dean
Year: 1995Make: ToyotaModel: TocomaEngine: 2.7 L Already Tried: I have changed the following; Wires Plugs Air filter Fuel filter
Thank you for using just answer.
Any check engine lights on?
Did this suddenly happen while driving or slowly develop?
No, it has been like this for a couple few years now and it is slowing getting worse. No check engine light.
HOw many miles are on this truck?
Any black smoke from the exhaust?
Any abnormal noises from the engine?
If you push the gas quickly at low speed and then release does the engine pop or backfire?
The truck has about 89 thousand miles, half are city and the other half are here in Dillingham, Alaska. A small bush village, so the truck does have to sit and idle for long periods of time. No black smoke and no noises from the engine and no backfire. It just bogs down and acts like it is going to die, but it doesn't, it will do that at ANY speeds.
Thank you for the reply.
The first thing I would check here is the EGR valve, I have a feeling that carbon restriction has probably clogged this valve partially open and is causing the lack of power and other issues. If you apply vaccum to the valve directly it should kill the engine, take vaccum off and it should rev up quickly and stabilize.
Other items to check after that will be the mass air flow meter and the throttle position sensors.
Ok, I have an Toyota Repair manual Engine book in front of me now. I got it from Toyota for my truck. What page would I look at for this ?
There are 3 volumes of the repair manual for this truck from the factory not just one so you will need to see if your manual even has this. It will be with the engine mechanical and emission control systems.
It has engine repair, maintenance 2rz-FE 3RZ-FE engine 5VZ-FE engine, Ignition system, starting system, charging system. I have found a page with the VSV EGR
The VSV is just the vaccum switch that sends vaccum to the vavle, if you follow the lines on this one it will end at the EGR modulator valve.
I don't use the hard copies of the manuals, most of this is in my head and then I have access to the electronic version of these when I need specs.
Is the EGR the Seattle Space Needle looking thing with the vac tubes sticking out ?
Let me pull a diagram here if there is a clear one...I need to clarify form earlier....you said this is a 1995 tacoma 2.7L? The t-100 is th only truck that had the 2.7L in 1995, clarify this please
Under the hood says it is an STY 2.7 It is a 95 Tacoma 16 valve
Are you located in the USA?
If this is indeed a 1995 Toyota USA market small pickup (tacoma) then it would have a 22RE engine, the T100 has the 2.7L (3RZ-FE) engine.
I bought it is Anchorage Alaska. We are the 49th state.
As long as the speedometer is in MPH then this is a USA market truck, can you give me the 17 digit vin# XXXXX I will check to see what kind of truck this is?
4TAUN61C1SZ027930
thank you. That's odd, it didn't show the 3rz-fe engine as an option but now I see it combined in the 2rz-fe engine manual.
if you look at the back of the intake you will see this:
The round part to the right is the modulator, the one to the left is the EGR valve. The hose that runs from the modulator to the top of the EGR valve is the hose that applies vaccum to open and close this valve.
Ok, I tried that and nothing happened. If I pulled the hose off of the plunger looking thing just under the throttle body the engine will rev up.Could it be the fule pressure regulator ? If I unplug the MAF meter connector it will die.
I don't think you understood what I was saying earlier, you need to pull the vaccum hose to the EGR valve and use a vaccm pump to test the valve operation.
So I need to get a hand pump, like one you can use for bleeding your breaks. Put it on there and start pumping it ? It should start to die if it is good and if it dosen't it will not do any thing, right ?
When vaccum is applied to the EGR valve it should kill the engine instantly at idle.
If you slowly apply a little vacum it should make the engine sputter and then release the vaccum and it should stablilize immediately.
Would a hand pump like the ones you use for bleeding your beaks work ?
no
So what like of pump will I need to get ?
You need to take this to a mechanic
Ok, is there any thing else we can test to rule out the other things first ? The reason I'm paying to talk to you is I can't afford $100 for a Mechanic.
I understand that but you also need to understand that you need to have some basic knowledge of the vehicle, how it works as well as proper tools to do anything to this vehicel, diagnosing a drivablility issue is not as simple for anyone as doing something like an oil change or changing a flat tire.
I understand that but you also need to understand that you need to have some basic knowledge of the vehicle, how it works as well as proper tools to do anything to this vehicel, diagnosing a drivablility issue is not as simple for anyone as doing something like an oil change or changing a flat tire. The
I understand that but you also need to understand that you need to have some basic knowledge of the vehicle, how it works as well as proper tools to do anything to this vehicel, diagnosing a drivablility issue is not as simple for anyone as doing something like an oil change or changing a flat tire. The EGR
I understand that but you also need to understand that you need to have some basic knowledge of the vehicle, how it works as well as proper tools to do anything to this vehicel, diagnosing a drivablility issue is not as simple for anyone as doing something like an oil change or changing a flat tire. The EGR system needs to be checked to narrow this down, then the MAF sensor and the coolant temp sensors.Peter40049.9306162847
Ok, just one more question and I'll push the accept button. What would happen if I were to remove my cat. I live here in Dillingham Alaska, the bush. We don't have any IM here. Will it hurt my engine or can I run it without it ? Well I guess that is two questions. Thanks, Dean
Ask away, that's what I am here for.
Converter restriction is unlikely on this, you can remove the forward o2 sensor to confirm that this is not a flow issue.
If you remove the converter it will set converter codes, it will also raise the emissions from the tail pipw but will not hard how well the truck runs. In most states this is against emission regulations and a federal offense.....but it's your truck and your call on that one.
Ok, so where is the O2 sensor ?
If you get under the truck and look at the exhaust pipe that runs off the exhaust manifold there are 2 o2 sensors on this truck, there is 1 BEFORE/ABOVE the converter and one just after. If you feel that restriction is the issue remove the forward sensor from the manifold area, don't unplug it just remove it.
Now that I have changed the fuel flitter it seems to be running worse, I have very little power now and can't give it much gas or it will really bog now.
Is this something that you did today?
No, I have driven it in the last few day every since I changed the fillter.
Well a fuel pressure test is a good idea, this is one of the preliminary checks I wanted performed after the EGR operation test, again a fuel pressure test will require a pressure tester with the correct fittings (special tool again). Usually of fuel pressure is low you end up getting a check engine light with a lean code.
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Well I guess I'll be out of a truck for a while. Thank you for all your help, I really wish I could pay you more but I can only afford $15, your knowlge is worth a lot more Dean