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1994 toyota 4 runner 3.0 no start has no spark,no injector pulse,or no fuel pump power. pump runs when I jump power to the fp pin at data link. efi fuse is good and power is at the fuel pump relay but it doesnt energize. I had recently did a head gasket on this vehicle. It ran fine for a few days.
Hello,
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If you jump the Te1 and E1 pins in the diagnostic box (same one as the FP pin ) are there any engine codes? Is the check engine light on with the key in the on position?
RXXXXX XXXXX
I have the snap on solus scanner and when I first checked out the truck it had an egr code but no engine light now. I was told by my comp program to unplug the efi fuse for 30 seconds to clear the codes so I did that to see if any codes would come back.
Use the method in the link below to check for codes and let me know what you find.
DOWNLOAD
the check engine light wont even light at all and I just checked all the fuses and found none bad
Click the link below. The violet wire on the top right of page for is pin 5 of connector A there needs to be 12 volts at this wire. This is the check engine light circuit. Check with a voltmeter not a test light. The engine will not start if the check engine light is not on with the key on. That is why I asked this previously. If you ground this violet wire the check engine light should come on if you have 12 volts on this wire.
Randy, Im still not finding the wire you are talking about which page number are you talking about? I feel like a moron right now but Im not seeing it
Click the link below for a better view. The computer turns the check engine light by grounding this wire. If you have 12 volts at this wire then the bulb is ok.
okay I see what your talking about but where do i find this wire?
There are 3 connectors listed at the bottom of the wiring diagram E6 to E8 or A,B,C. The computer is behind the right kick panel. Connector E6 is the forward most connector. and the pin identifier is on the bottom of the wiring diagram.
ok well I found that violet wire and it does have battery voltage. I grounded it and the check engine light did come on. so now what....
You mentioned that the Check engine light will not light up at all with the key on. Is this still the case and the truck is still a no start correct?
At the TPS and/or the Air Flow Meter check the voltage of the G-B (green with black tracer) wire with the key on and the battery fully charged. These are shown on page 4 of the wiring diagram above. Let me know the reading. I have to step out for a couple of hours but I will check back later tonight.
ok randy I checked the wire at the air flow with a volt meter and there is .037 volts and the tps was the same
Now we are getting somewhere! This has to be 5 volts if the line gets shorted to ground it shuts the computer down and the check engine light. While monitoring the voltage unplug the MAF and the tps one at a time and let me know if the voltage jumps to 5 volts with the battery fully charged and the key on.
ok with them both unplugged and key on they still have .037
Remember that as we go forward my directions to the next steps are based solely on the accuracy of your readings. Make sure you have a good ground and are one the proper scale on the meter.
Next unplug the MAF and TPS and all the connectors to the computer. Measure for continuity to ground on the same wire you checked for voltage at the MAF and TPS.
Let me know if there is any.
are you talking about checking them at the ecm ? for a grounded out wire?
I want to make sure the G-B wire is not shorted to ground. The computer and sensors need disconnected or you will get a false reading. Measure the ohms from the chasis ground to the G-B wire.
ok I did that test and the wire or wires are not shorted to ground
Plug the computer connectors in and check the voltages to the power feeds to the computer on page 1 an 2 of the PDF wiring digram. The W-R wires pins 12 and 13 in connector E6(A) and the B-G wire same connector pin 1 What are the voltages if you back probe these wires with the key on?
ok Randy....the white with red stripe, pin 12 and 13 are at 1.026 and the black with green stripe pin 1 is 13.23 battery voltage
have I lost you
No I work a regular job and it got busy I can only follow up when there is nothing to do. Make a jumper wire and apply 12 volts to these W-R wires. Bring it from the battery or you could piggy back off of the B-G wire. See if the Check engine light comes on or if the truck starts? Let me know If you trace the W-R wire back it comes from the EFI main relay and goes through a couple of connectors. There may be an issue with them but lets by pass it for now and see if we can get it fired up.
Let me know
ok randy I jumped both wires at the comp but it didnt really want to start. then I jumped both terminals at the efi relay one is full ground and one is full power and the other two are gounded but when powered up they sent power to those wires you told me to check. So does this mean that the stupid relay is the problem or is there something else I possibly moved to get it to run. Keep in mind it ran when it came in but then nothing...
The efi main relay has to click on when the key is turned on. If you jumper pins 5 to 3 then the power is at the W-R wires correct. The connector to connectors in the harness may be corroded but if you jump the relay or manual close it and get power to the W-R wires the probably would rule out EB2 and IH1 and splice points I15 and I12. Pins 1 and 5 at the EFI main relay should be 12 volts with the key on. only pin 2 should be Grounded. Does yours match this?
no I only have power on one of those if your looking from the front of the truck with four prongs the bottom is batt voltage and the right side is ground the left and top are ground while key on but when i jumped both to power the truck runs
Clarify which pin is hot based on the image below.
in the efi relay #5 is hot and #2 is ground...# XXXXX and #3 are jumped to #5 to run
Number 1 has to be hot (12 volts) from the IGN 7.5 amp fuse for the relay to engage. Do you have 12 volts at pin 1 of the efi main relay? If you jump only 5 to 3 will the check engine light come on and the truck start and run normal?
ok Randy we are getting somewhere now for sure.....# XXXXX is not hot with the key on and the truck does run with just 3 and 5 jumped and the engine light comes on with key on when jumped. so I take it I have a bad wire to #1 on the relay??? I also did order up a new relay..Is that wire on #1 black with a yellow stripe? And where does it run from other than I know from the ignition...
Yes it is Black with a yellow stripe. Depending on if it has 2 or 4 wheel ABS there is a connector that could be an issue. Click the link below for those locations. TRIPLE check the 7.5 amp IG fuse make sure the spades are tight in the fuse box. The B-Y wire runs in the main harness back to the fuse box in the drivers side that is where the IGN fuse is.
LOL Randy what link would that be? you said click on the link below but its not attached....It is 2 wheel abs..
OOPS
thats funny Randy...However I still dont know where I should look for this wire???? I see these pics but they are also a 4 cyl ...mine is a v6
The download has both the V6 and the 4 cylinder wire harness routing and connector to connector locations. EB2 is the one you are looking for if it is a 2 wheel abs system. The connection is the only one between the 7.5 amp fuse and the efi main relay. As far as the exact way the individual wire goes there is no way to know. You will have to trace it down if it comes to that. My guess would be that it goes in on the right side by the computer then across the dash.
Ok........Now I have power with ignition on the #1 terminal but it seems to run bad.....it surges and dont like to just start right up like it should.. I just dont understand how that can run like this...mind you it is running now but this is how the truck came in originally and then no start came along...I want to put a stick of dinamite under the hood and shove it outside. the check engine light is on with key on now with still # XXXXX 5 still jumped, while I wait for the relay. or is that why? I know this has been a pain but I think we are close. What should I do next?
If you got the jumper wire providing the power that is not going to make any difference in the running of the engine verses the relay. Have you check the code system know that you have the check engine light working on the dash? Go back to the basics and check everything related to performance and running issues. Fuel pressure, timing vacuum, compression test spark out put tune up condition, and vacuum leaks.
Now the stupid thing wont start again but yet all we have done is good even the voltage on the green and black wire on the maf and tps... its crazy... I try to start it and it wont start then I wait a bit and try it again and it might...I will check for codes but its not sending the light on when I do get it to start..however it will not start again now....I guess I will see if I can see what its missing first all over again. spark,fuel injector pulse or something......UGH
I got you to the finish line you are going to have to finish it out there is not much more I can tell you double check everything you are missing something.
Experience: Toyota Master Diagnostic