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Pin 9 the black/orange wire is the main feed to the ignition coils and goes to the noise filter. It has nothing to do with the starter engagement circuit. Pin 7 black/white wire is the only wire involved in the starter circuit. I am not sure I understand the current situation or remember. So we are clear is the engine cranking over and not starting or just not cranking over. Are you getting power to the neutral safety switch and the starter relay? I am attaching the power flow source chart. The 30 amp ams fuse feeds the ign 7.5 amp fuse. I don't understand why removing the AM2 fuse would allow the engine to crank. One possibility is that the ignition relay is loosing its ground source to engage the starter relay. Test the continuity to ground on the white with black wire or pin 2 of the starter relay.
We are going to need to take this one step at a time. Verify what is going on in the starter circuit. to the relay.
Just got in no time to study. First grandson born tonight will get back to you tomorrow on some input.
Pin 5 at the starter relay goes to 0 volts when the ignition switch is turned to the start position and everthing else is plugged in???? The nuts on the cover should be about 4 or 5 mm hex or allen wrench nuts. Throw the valley cover away I did on mine. All they are good for is cutting your fingers.
Thank you it really has not hit me yet but he is a beautiful boy 7lbs. 9oz.
Make sure ever thing is plugged in and the cover is removed from the starter relay. Have someone turn the ignition key to the start position and hold it, do the contacts of the relay close? Get me the voltage readings of the relay pins 1,2,3 and 5 while in the start position. You can take the readings from the relay post with the cover off. We are going to take this one step at a time so we don't lose anything in the translation and kind of start over if you don't mind. Let me know as soon as you get the readings it looks like I am not going any where today because of the blizzard I am stuck in Columbus OH so I will be monitoring all day unless I loose internet service.
I thought I sent you that info. Here is the real stuff double check it and let me know if it changes. Click on the download button and get back to me. Try these links let me know if you can read them? The download is scalable and I attached it as a print screen JPG.
Now you have even me confused!! If you jumped 4 to 7 and 9 to 10 and the car started and ran and you have a new switch there has to be a pin fit problem.
Plug everthing back in! Probe B/W pin 5 with volt meter at the nuetral safty switch. Turn the ignition switch to the start position. What is the voltage? Do the same thing at Black wire pin 6 at the nuetral safty switch. What is the voltage? Do the same thing at pin 1and pin 5 or posts of the starter relay. What are the voltages? Get back to me with these readings? We are going to do this one step at a time. Take the voltage reading and let me know what they are and make sure your meter is grounded good and the wires/post have good contact.
Loose pin fit just means the male and female pins of a connector are loose.
The easiest way to voltage check a connector that is plugged in is to take a hat pin or large needle and back probe parallel along side the wire and inside of the rubber seal plug of the connector. Push the needle in until you feel it hit the metal part of the pin inside of the connector, then alligator clip the test leads to the pin.
You should never be able to measure voltage at pin 2 of the starter relay in any position of the key. Pin 2 is the ground side of the coil winding and should always be less then .1 volt. If you have voltage there (pin 2) in the start position then there is high resistance in the ground wire white/black or the grounding bolt IG. or the junction block connectors 3C,1C 1M. What is the ohm reading from pin 2 with the relay removed and the engine ground?
There should never be voltage there (pin 2) in the on position. You have to be getting some kind of voltage feedback on this B-W wire going to the relay. Check the junction block connectors in the instrument panel junction block Connectors 1G and 1E see attached download on page 20 pull these connectors and isolate and find where the power is feeding to the B-W wire in the on position. Check for overheating or burned connectors in the junction block check for corrosion. Focus on this voltage in the pin 2 relay circuit in the on position and it may lead you to the problem.
Make sure all of your grounds are good. See attached download.
Great job! I am glad you found the problem. Unfortunately Auto-Mate 2 is not Toyota installed. I would just remove and throw the thing away. I have sent you enough wiring diagrams and you seem pretty sharp so you should not have any trouble putting things back to factory stuff.
Good luck and thanks again. If you need anything else you know how to find me.