For religious purposes, one needs to immerse his electric
For religious purposes, one needs to immerse his electric appliances in water. Experience has shown that when immersing hot water kettles, sandwich makers and toaster if one waits a few days to dry the appliance works fine. However, once in a while there is an appliance that gets ruined. What do you think the difference is? Why do some break and some don't?
High School or GED
Our GE Microwave is just over 1 year old Model JNM3161RF2SS.
Our GE Microwave is just over 1 year old Model JNM3161RF2SS. It has totally lost power. The outlet works fine and no breakers are thrown. Thanks, GailJA: Can you guesstimate how old your GE is? And just to clarify, what's the exact model?Customer: The model number is ***** The manufacture date is October 2015.JA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?Customer: If it is just something that we can check without calling for service, I would like to do that. If not, we will have to call for repairJA: Anything else we should know to help you best?Customer: Worked fine until 10 minutes ago.
I just installed a over the stove Microwave and its
I just installed a over the stove Microwave and its completely dead there is power to the unitJA: Have you tried power cycling the appliance -- unplugging it and leaving it off for a few hours?Customer: no its brand new out of the box the fan and the light don't work etherJA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?Customer: i will tryJA: Anything else we should know to help you best?Customer: is there a rest
GE Refrigerator runs constantly, 24/7; never goes into off
GE Refrigerator runs constantly, 24/7; never goes into off cycle and the freezer and fresh-food sides are not cold enough. I have not taken a formal temperature reading yet.My refrigerator is about 43 years old, model TFF22DRC, side-by-side with a diverter. I have been using the GE repair manual over a long period to diagnose and repair my GE refrigerator. For over a month now, I haveHere is everything I can think of to tell you in order for you to help me to troubleshoot the problem, hopefully, to save my refrigerator for just a few more years without incurring an exorbitant cost:1.) I was repeatedly cycling the main fuse box in my house on and off and didn't take precautions by turning off my refrigerator;2.) I replaced defrost timer and cold (temperature) control;3.) I removed the evaporator cover and observed that there is no ice blockage on the coils;4.) I removed the air return (louvered) cover in the fresh food side about 2/3 of the way down the adjacent wall to the freezer side, by the fruits and vegetable drawer. Using a mirror, and my fingernail, I scraped a little bit of frost on the base of the evaporator;5.) I don't know if this is by design, but there is no silicone caulking along the butt edge where the ceiling inside the fresh food side meets the back wall inside the fresh food side.6.) Both the evaporator and condenser fans are operating. When I close the freezer door and I put my ear to the exterior wall of the freezer, I can hear the evaporator fan working. I noticed a small hairline surface scratch on one of the blades of the evaporator fan. I have felt the airflow through the diverter in the fresh food compartment but cannot determine if the flow rate is normal or not; the flow does not feel especially forceful, especially with the light cover in place. I keep the freezer diverter dial to mid range "C". I have put a tissue up against the return air louver with the fresh food door open and can detect some suction.7.) When I close the freezer door, a hissing or suction sound is heard, suggesting a low pressure development. I say this because it takes more effort to open the fresh food side door. I am wondering if this low pressure is developed because of the air flowing through that small gap along the butt line formed where there is no silicone caulking between the back wall and ceiling inside the fresh food compartment as I pointed out before.8.) There is no clicking coming from the relay/overvoltage/over-temp protector. I have plugged the refrigerator into 2 different locations where I am using power bars. One of these locations is characterized by a flickering light in the fresh food side when I turn the cold control on. There is some sort of cycling sound that occurs - some sort of advancing. After 1 or 2 minutes the compressor turns on. The TV, DVD, and VCR are also plugged in here so maybe it is a current problem - the fuse never blows at the main fuse panel. There I no dedicated circuit for the refrigerator. But there is one location where I can plug into a power bar which, for most of the time, is used to supply only the refrigerator. The other small appliances used for a very short time on this circuit are the toaster and the coffee maker.9.) The output (compression) side of the compressor feels hot to the touch, and the suction side from the evaporator feels cold to the touch. However, when feeling the 2 condenser coils behind the grill, they never feel hot to the touch. I seem to remember a long time ago that they were in fact hot to the touch. Should the liquid R12 flowing through the condenser be hot in order to get the fizzing action at the metering device where rapid evaporation occurs - much like we would observe when opening a pop bottle that has been shaken?10.) I have aligned the freezer door to be in-line with the exterior wall of the refrigerator which had the effect of decreasing the distance between the freezer and the fresh food doors;11.) I removed some small sheets (batts) of yellow insulation after the problem first arose to see if this would effect the airflow from the condenser fan and have some positive effect in the cooling effect of the condenser;12.) I used the long condenser brush from the front and from behind through the compressor compartment. Do I need to use a damp cloth?13.) When cleaning the tile floor under the refrigerator over the years, I have noticed some green deposits and deposits that may have been dust and moisture, or maybe Freon deposits? I am told that leaky deposits leave brownish, oily deposits which I don't seem to detect. The heat of the compressor seems to have discolored the tile floor.14.) Are there any blockages which I can clear, say, inside the condenser coils?15.) Could my turning the power on and off at the fuse panel have caused some Freon (R12) to be expelled? Is there a possibility that after 43 years that the Freon level is low?Can you help me to find a solution?
I purchased a dualit toaster online and it came with a euro
I purchased a dualit toaster online and it came with a euro electric plug. I purchased a plug adaptor. When I operate it the hearing Elle,nets do not get hot enough to toast. Is there a solution, can I have a US plug put on it?Tom
I have a 2006 whirlpool oven. Regular model, not fancy. Didn't
I have a 2006 whirlpool oven. Regular model, not fancy. Didn't use much. Super clean.Excellent condition. (Since we are a small family, I used a small toaster oven most of the time.) But, the tenant turned on the Auto clean button last week, and the light couldn't be shut off. He didn't pay attention to the oven after he turned on the auto clean button. Now, the oven isn't heating up any more, but the top stove still works.I went to check 3 days ago. First, I turned off the circuit breaker, and let it sit for a while. I then turned back on the circuit breaker and hopefully, the oven light can be turned off. But NO. Then, I dug out the manual and tried to play around the buttons. I finally figured out how to shut off the oven lights. I simply pressed auto clean button again and then pushed START button, and then the oven light was off. But, the pad/screen kept showing the " door is on, not closed". But, the door is closed. Like I mentioned earlier, the oven is in an excellent condition. The door latch looks good too. But why it kept saying the door is on, needed to close the door. Do we need to reprogram the computer/oven? How do we do now? Pls help!
High School or GED
My new kitchen aid barbecue only heats up on the main burner
My new kitchen aid barbecue only heats up on the main burner and the searing burner. It is natural gas, Model #:(###) ###-####G. There is a very small flame coming out of the other 3 burners, but not really enough to cook anything on them