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Electric Meter Repair and Maintenance
What is a meter?
A device that records the exact amount of electricity being used by a consumer is called an electric meter. This device is also known as a watt-hour meter and gives readings in kilowatt-hours. Power companies install these meters at points where the company’s electricity lines are connected to a consumer’s building. Customers are charged periodically for their power usage based on readings taken from this meter. Listed below are questions answered by electricians on electric meter maintenance and repair related issues.
What do I do if my electric meter has become hot and begun to crackle?
If this happens, it’s important you get in touch with your electric company immediately. This is quite dangerous since there is a possibility that the lugs inside the meter have become loose and are arcing. If this is left unchecked, it could even burn your entire house down.
I am trying to relocate my electrical meter and for this to happen, my electrical company is going to have to shift my aerial supply line as well. With the new setup, I will have 6-8 feet of wire in conduit between the panel and the meter. Would this become a code issue and do I need an additional shut off?
Based on what you have said, there doesn’t seem to be any cause for worry. Very often, inspectors insist that service wires located inside a building, that are unprotected, and that measure over five feet in length, need to have a disconnect on the outside. However, this doesn’t apply to
on the outside. The optimal distance is usually decided upon by the inspector who has the final say in the matter. A few of them may have objections to the additional length while others may not.
I need to run wire from my electric meter to 2,200 amp panel boxes that are located on a wall that measures 2 X 6. The meter is fixed on the outside of this wall. My engineer thinks I only need 36’- 40’ of wire to make the connection. How much do I need?
You can determine this by the distance between the meter and the panels. If it’s less than 12” to the panels, your engineer’s estimate is close. If it’s a lot more, then the wire would probably need to measure about six times that distance, lug to lug.
Can I buy a meter socket for a residential power system without a bypass, in North Carolina? My electricity company says that all they require is that the meter socket is rated for 200 amps.
Usually, the standard 200 amp meter socket comes with a bypass. The bypass protects the meter so that there is no arc that might damage the electronics when you remove the meter. If the power company does not insist on the bypass, it may be alright but you could check with the local electrical inspector to ensure that you do not go against the rules.
An electric power meter can help you understand how much energy is consumed by different appliances in your home and can therefore help bring down your power bills. To monitor energy consumption of a specific appliance, there are a few steps you can follow. Start by turning the appliance off. Then remove the plug from its electrical
and connect it to the power meter. Thereafter, plug the electric power meter into the electrical outlet. Once you turn the appliance on, check the reading on the power meter to note the number of watts of energy being consumed by it. This will help you to monitor your usage and cut down where necessary.
Recent Meter Questions
This is a commercial site we are at, there is a 40hp dust collector
This is a commercial site we are at, there is a 40hp dust collector that has been on a 200amp circuit for years with no problems, it has been the only thing on this circuit, it will pull at most 106 amps while running. About a year ago we added a 25hp screw air compressor to this circuit, its starts unloaded, runs at around 37amps unloaded and 62amps when its compressing air. At the main panel we have quality time delay fuses for that circuit, both machines are independently fused at the machine. We had a problem last year in the hottest part of our season, the main would blow a fuse about once a month, we finally made the problem go away by installing better fuses, well its back again. The burnt fuses are sometimes showing extreme heat at both ends of the fuse, we have checked all connections from the lugs in the main to all connections at the machines, by the way these are straight runs with no junctions. The independents fuses at the machines have never blown and they are rated correctly for their loads. Anyone have an idea what we are missing?
An overhead light fixture on the 2nd floor stopped working.
An overhead light fixture on the 2nd floor stopped working. I've tried the following, nothing has worked.
Replaced bulbs in old fixture
Removed old fixture, ensured that there was power in wires
Purchased new fixture, reconnected wires
Replaced two light switches (one upstairs, one downstairs that were in relay)
Any assistance would be appreciated
If i have a muti family residence. It has currently two meters.
If i have a muti family residence.
It has currently two meters.
But need to make it four meters.
I want to buy a square D 4 disconnect
Meter all together but it's 400 amps, 125 amp disconnect. How do I size the service conductors? Parallel?
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