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Electric Meter Repair and Maintenance
What is a meter?
A device that records the exact amount of electricity being used by a consumer is called an electric meter. This device is also known as a watt-hour meter and gives readings in kilowatt-hours. Power companies install these meters at points where the company’s electricity lines are connected to a consumer’s building. Customers are charged periodically for their power usage based on readings taken from this meter. Listed below are questions answered by electricians on electric meter maintenance and repair related issues.
What do I do if my electric meter has become hot and begun to crackle?
If this happens, it’s important you get in touch with your electric company immediately. This is quite dangerous since there is a possibility that the lugs inside the meter have become loose and are arcing. If this is left unchecked, it could even burn your entire house down.
I am trying to relocate my electrical meter and for this to happen, my electrical company is going to have to shift my aerial supply line as well. With the new setup, I will have 6-8 feet of wire in conduit between the panel and the meter. Would this become a code issue and do I need an additional shut off?
Based on what you have said, there doesn’t seem to be any cause for worry. Very often, inspectors insist that service wires located inside a building, that are unprotected, and that measure over five feet in length, need to have a disconnect on the outside. However, this doesn’t apply to
on the outside. The optimal distance is usually decided upon by the inspector who has the final say in the matter. A few of them may have objections to the additional length while others may not.
I need to run wire from my electric meter to 2,200 amp panel boxes that are located on a wall that measures 2 X 6. The meter is fixed on the outside of this wall. My engineer thinks I only need 36’- 40’ of wire to make the connection. How much do I need?
You can determine this by the distance between the meter and the panels. If it’s less than 12” to the panels, your engineer’s estimate is close. If it’s a lot more, then the wire would probably need to measure about six times that distance, lug to lug.
Can I buy a meter socket for a residential power system without a bypass, in North Carolina? My electricity company says that all they require is that the meter socket is rated for 200 amps.
Usually, the standard 200 amp meter socket comes with a bypass. The bypass protects the meter so that there is no arc that might damage the electronics when you remove the meter. If the power company does not insist on the bypass, it may be alright but you could check with the local electrical inspector to ensure that you do not go against the rules.
An electric power meter can help you understand how much energy is consumed by different appliances in your home and can therefore help bring down your power bills. To monitor energy consumption of a specific appliance, there are a few steps you can follow. Start by turning the appliance off. Then remove the plug from its electrical
and connect it to the power meter. Thereafter, plug the electric power meter into the electrical outlet. Once you turn the appliance on, check the reading on the power meter to note the number of watts of energy being consumed by it. This will help you to monitor your usage and cut down where necessary.
Recent Meter Questions
I am replacing wall switches and unfortunately did not label
I am replacing wall switches and unfortunately did not label the wiring before removing. I also changed 2 outlets that were switched on the bottom and always live on top to always live.
Wires 2W & 2B when tested are live and are switched by the Living Room Breaker.
Wires 5W & 5B are live and controlled by the Front light and time clock Breaker. Time clock is for driveway lights.
Wires 3W & 3B when connected to 2W & 2B allow all Living room outlets to work correctly.
Wires 4W, 4R (Red), and 4B, I currently do not know if or where these need to be connected.
Wires 1W and 1B, if I turn of breaker and connect white & black wires together that lead to porch light then I can read that I have a complete circuit with a ohm meter when testing across 1W & 1B.
Now my problem...If I connect 5W & 5B to 1W & 1B, I believe I should get my porch light. My porch light is a motion sensing light and only clicks and doesn't turn on but my driveway lights will work but pulse off every second or two. I disconnected porch light and the driveway lights do not work at all. I hooked another light to porch wiring and the light did not work but the driveway lights do work without pulsing. The light I tried was a direct wire ceiling light.
I originally had 3 switches. 1 for driveway lights, 1 for porch light, and 1 for living room outlets that I no longer need.
I believe/thought that 4W, 4R (Red) and 4B was wiring for the switched outlets that I changed to not switched.
Help, I need to figure out how to wire the switch for the porch light and then also a switch for the driveway lights.
I posted a picture on the webpage https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/72492/multiple-wall-switch-wiring-issue
My new VHF SX-200 will not charge the battery. Shortly after
My new VHF SX-200 will not charge the battery. Shortly after charging the battery (green diode) the voltage goes down and the output power meter shows lack of power.
Have you bad experiences with the type of battery? Or do you think it is the charger?
On a poly-phase 5 yaw meter, if the 5th yaw (neutral) is not
on a poly-phase 5 yaw meter, if the 5th yaw (neutral) is not hooked up, does the meter read high or low?
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