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Air handler insulation in my classroom. Condensation line

Air handler insulation in my classroom. Condensation line plugs and over flows into drain pan and the insulation under the drain pan gets soaked. Do you think this is mold? CO2 levels average 1600 ppm during the school day.The chiller system is 18 years old.https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6ni3qk0h8gkbkb/Sample.jpeg?dl=0

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Rick

Owner

24,030 satisfied customers
I just bought a single-wide trailer that was "remodeled"

I just bought a single-wide trailer that was "remodeled" inside. They say that the floor and walls were redone, and that the insulation was too. I have lived in here since March, and when the summer started getting closer, the house would not cool down and the "all in one" AC would run all day. I don't have the air handler inside the home. I kept it on 78 degrees at first, and noticed that it was running all day, from around 10 am, until 9 pm. I bought this trailer from the mobile home community, and have been complaining about it for months. I get home at 3pm daily, and I noticed the thermostat would say 87 degrees. So I bought a small 5,000 BTU window unit and also a 12,000 BTU portable on wheels unit to cool the living room, which has a raised ceiling. So I'm sure there is no insulation with the cathedral-like ceiling. I've had HVAC folks come out and they have stated that there is nothing wrong with the AC. It blows cold, but just doesn't seem to have enough "blow power" with the blower. They inspected the ducts in the floor, and patched up a few areas in numerous vent ducts. It still has not kept my home cool. The only time the trailer cools off, is if it is overcast all day, raining, or when the sun goes down. It's in direct sunlight all day. When the sun goes down, my house cools down to 76 in about an hour. And over the weekends, I set it to 74, since my girlfriend is here, and needs it cooler overnight. No issues cooling overnight at all. Will it help for me to have a bigger unit installed? I have a 2 ton unit right now, and they "suggested" moving up to a 2.5 ton unit. Is that going to solve the issue that I have with cooling? Will that unit push more air out of the vents to actually cool the house? Also, if I have a new unit installed, what do I need the HVAC guys do? What do I need to make sure to get done, so I don't miss anything, and they don't miss anything? Sorry for all the questions, just looking for "options". Oh, and my trailer size is 14'x80'. The unit intake is is by the back room, and the back room (master) has the AC unit right outside the windown. So that is the coolest part of the house, at all times. Just hate that my unit runs all day, and does not shut down for 13-15 hours straight a day. Thanks for your help!

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6 satisfied customers
I just moved into a house that is 10 years old. The AC unit

I just moved into a house that is 10 years old. The AC unit came up as an item to watch but not defective on the home inspection because it was "beyond it's normal useful life". The unit was unable to keep up with the summer heat in August and would be, for example, set to 73 but could go no lower then 77. Then I got my energy bill which was through the roof, almost $400 for 1,800 square feet. I had a company come out to do a maintenance on the unit and came back with feedback that there were a lot of red flags and it should be replaced. For example, when pulling off the panels the insulation was falling off, touched the inside of the unit and sparks flied. He taped that back on. Then he pointed out there was "biogrowth" on the air handler (top part of the unit), said it wasn't draining properly and R22 refrigerant could be leaking into the house. He also said the engine was running at 29 out of 30 so it was running at capacity.He looked at the compressor outside and pointed something out about the capacitor saying those things don't get put in unless someone knows their unit is on the way out. (It may not have been the capacitor but was right next to it?) I mentioned it was a good thing I have a home warranty, and the guy immediately discouraged me from using them because he said the work they do is bare minimum to make code and wouldn't really do enough because they don't want to pay for the replacement of a unit. (Which I could see as a possibility) Here was his suggestion:NEED REPAIRSBlower Motor (cost $698)UV System ($380)POTENTIAL PROBLEMSEvaporator coil $2,246Compressor $2,137RECOMMENDED:- Duct cleaning- Upgrading system ($4,800 for seer 13 / basic unit for upgraded York multispeed humidity control, seer 16.75 (4 ton), 10 year labor warranty ($600 value), UV light ($200 "at cost") with instant rebate is $8,000.I went to my home warranty company, (paid $65 total as part of deductible) didn't tell them about this and had them examine to get second opinion. They felt the capacitor on the compressor outside needed to be replaced and did so, were not going to open the panels because they said there's rarely anything going on in there, however I insisted and they decided to change out the capacitor for the motor, saying it wasn't at maximum but was elevated and that the rust was normal it deals with water all day. The unit is 10 years old and should last another 5 to 10 years.So as you see... two very different opinions! The first guy seemed to paint a grim picture but did a more thorough check (including going in the attic to check the ducts) but was pushing an upgrade. The guy from home warranty wasn't too concerned and almost didn't even open the unit until I insisted..... Do I need a THIRD opinion?? I guess that's why I am here. Who is right?

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Gaztech

Owner

Vocational, Technical or Trade School

472 satisfied customers
I have a 2 story house in SouthCentral PA with a 2 zone

I have a 2 story house in SouthCentral PA with a 2 zone Natural Gas HVAC system. Zone 1 is First floor and unfinished basement (where the Zone 1 furnace is) Zone 2 is the second floor (rooms mostly since the hallway is open to the first floor foyer) with the furnace in the attic. For what its worth, the Zone 1 is 2.5 ton, and Zone 2 is 2 ton builder grade systems 6 years old. And both of the cooling towers are the same size physically, and next to each other on the same side of the house.Here is my question. On hot summer days the zone 2 unit can only do at best 78 - 80 cooling, when the zone 1 system can keep 72 F when the sun is up. After it sets it will catch up in the wee hours as things cool off.So on days where it is 95 with high humidity (reel feel of 100+) I've got one unit that keeps us cool, the other unit, not so much.*************************Question : Is there a way to help out the upstairs zone 2? The attic is only passively ventilated.Sub Question: If I were to have to replace Zone 2 unit in the future, would putting the unit in the basement next to the Zone 1 unit help and run the air up the large chase that the pipes from the Zone 2 unit currently occupy?Are there any other considerations?**************************

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Airheatman

Heating & Air Conditioning Contractor

6 years college

9,956 satisfied customers
My Trane XL15i, installed in 2010, has worked perfectly

My Trane XL15i, installed in 2010, has worked perfectly until the last week. The unit cools the air, but the humidity in the house remains between 60 and 75%, depending on the thermostat setting. I keep the temp on 78 degrees typically. This would keep the humidity in the 50's. Now I have the temp set at 77 degrees but the humidity is 69%. Not comfortable. I checked the filter. It is clean. I added bleach to the drain, a monthly procedure.I checked the outside drain and no water is coming out. I don't see a backup of water anywhere. What do you suggest the issue is. Does it need a technician to repair or can I do it myself?

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Airheatman

Heating & Air Conditioning Contractor

6 years college

9,956 satisfied customers
I had my Lennox A/C charged on 6/24. It needed 3+ pounds of

I had my Lennox A/C charged on 6/24. It needed 3+ pounds of the older refrigerant since it is about 16 years old. The A/C lines run from the evaporator coil which is above Lennox furnace through the attic above ceiling and out to condenser. About 3 days later, I noticed two areas in the ceiling forming water stains. A/C person said "water line" to A/C froze (this is June and I've had this A/C for 16 years. This has never happened and I live in Denver). A/C person said "they" should never have used copper line and said he would replace it with plastic line. This doesn't make any sense to me at all. He said he "braised" three area where there were leaks. Could overcharging the unit have caused this? Why would this happen after 16 years of surviving winters? Am I missing something?

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Airheatman

Heating & Air Conditioning Contractor

6 years college

9,956 satisfied customers
I have a central AC unit that is based outside my home.

I have a central AC unit that is based outside my home. There is a pipe with insulation around it going into my house. Recently the walls where the unit is have begun to vibrate and there is a loud noise coming from the bottom of the A C unit. The fan works and the unit is producing cold air, but these noises and vibrations are problemmatic.

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Airheatman

Heating & Air Conditioning Contractor

6 years college

9,956 satisfied customers
AC doing well with 20 degree drop. But house not cooling.

Replacing TXV, fresh r410a, bumped down to 400, held for 20 min with only 150 micron rise, subcooling is 10 as per nameplate, superheat is 14 at coil, temp diff is 20f from return to supply, house is 1350 sq ft in Canada system, it is 2 ton, wont pull down temp below 78f.

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Airheatman

Heating & Air Conditioning Contractor

6 years college

9,956 satisfied customers
I have been using my nest thermostat for a couple of years,

I have been using my nest thermostat for a couple of years, no problems. The contactor in my AC unit failed and I replaced it. The thermostat is delivering 24 volts to it and the contactor is working just fine, but the thermostat is now reporting an E30 error, eg no connectivity to Y1. Any thoughts on what can cause this? Might I need a larger transformer ?JA: Just to clarify, do you think this is a larger HVAC problem, or something specific to the thermostat?Customer: Well the Contactor failed first, but hard to tell if we have a chicken or egg problem :- )JA: What are all the symptoms of the problem (error codes, flashing lights, etc.)?Customer: When I first installed the new contactor everything worked fine for about half an hour, then after about half an hour the thermostat reported that the wiring had changed, when I clicked in, I got the E30 errorJA: What happened just before this problem started? What troubleshooting have you tried?Customer: My old relay was clicking on and off, and the contactor contacts had welded themselves shutJA: Anything else you want the HVAC tech to know before I connect you?Customer: No

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Airheatman

Heating & Air Conditioning Contractor

6 years college

9,956 satisfied customers
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