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GE Refrigerator runs constantly, 24/7; never goes into off

GE Refrigerator runs constantly, 24/7; never goes into off cycle and the freezer and fresh-food sides are not cold enough. I have not taken a formal temperature reading yet.My refrigerator is about 43 years old, model TFF22DRC, side-by-side with a diverter. I have been using the GE repair manual over a long period to diagnose and repair my GE refrigerator. For over a month now, I haveHere is everything I can think of to tell you in order for you to help me to troubleshoot the problem, hopefully, to save my refrigerator for just a few more years without incurring an exorbitant cost:1.) I was repeatedly cycling the main fuse box in my house on and off and didn't take precautions by turning off my refrigerator;2.) I replaced defrost timer and cold (temperature) control;3.) I removed the evaporator cover and observed that there is no ice blockage on the coils;4.) I removed the air return (louvered) cover in the fresh food side about 2/3 of the way down the adjacent wall to the freezer side, by the fruits and vegetable drawer. Using a mirror, and my fingernail, I scraped a little bit of frost on the base of the evaporator;5.) I don't know if this is by design, but there is no silicone caulking along the butt edge where the ceiling inside the fresh food side meets the back wall inside the fresh food side.6.) Both the evaporator and condenser fans are operating. When I close the freezer door and I put my ear to the exterior wall of the freezer, I can hear the evaporator fan working. I noticed a small hairline surface scratch on one of the blades of the evaporator fan. I have felt the airflow through the diverter in the fresh food compartment but cannot determine if the flow rate is normal or not; the flow does not feel especially forceful, especially with the light cover in place. I keep the freezer diverter dial to mid range "C". I have put a tissue up against the return air louver with the fresh food door open and can detect some suction.7.) When I close the freezer door, a hissing or suction sound is heard, suggesting a low pressure development. I say this because it takes more effort to open the fresh food side door. I am wondering if this low pressure is developed because of the air flowing through that small gap along the butt line formed where there is no silicone caulking between the back wall and ceiling inside the fresh food compartment as I pointed out before.8.) There is no clicking coming from the relay/overvoltage/over-temp protector. I have plugged the refrigerator into 2 different locations where I am using power bars. One of these locations is characterized by a flickering light in the fresh food side when I turn the cold control on. There is some sort of cycling sound that occurs - some sort of advancing. After 1 or 2 minutes the compressor turns on. The TV, DVD, and VCR are also plugged in here so maybe it is a current problem - the fuse never blows at the main fuse panel. There I no dedicated circuit for the refrigerator. But there is one location where I can plug into a power bar which, for most of the time, is used to supply only the refrigerator. The other small appliances used for a very short time on this circuit are the toaster and the coffee maker.9.) The output (compression) side of the compressor feels hot to the touch, and the suction side from the evaporator feels cold to the touch. However, when feeling the 2 condenser coils behind the grill, they never feel hot to the touch. I seem to remember a long time ago that they were in fact hot to the touch. Should the liquid R12 flowing through the condenser be hot in order to get the fizzing action at the metering device where rapid evaporation occurs - much like we would observe when opening a pop bottle that has been shaken?10.) I have aligned the freezer door to be in-line with the exterior wall of the refrigerator which had the effect of decreasing the distance between the freezer and the fresh food doors;11.) I removed some small sheets (batts) of yellow insulation after the problem first arose to see if this would effect the airflow from the condenser fan and have some positive effect in the cooling effect of the condenser;12.) I used the long condenser brush from the front and from behind through the compressor compartment. Do I need to use a damp cloth?13.) When cleaning the tile floor under the refrigerator over the years, I have noticed some green deposits and deposits that may have been dust and moisture, or maybe Freon deposits? I am told that leaky deposits leave brownish, oily deposits which I don't seem to detect. The heat of the compressor seems to have discolored the tile floor.14.) Are there any blockages which I can clear, say, inside the condenser coils?15.) Could my turning the power on and off at the fuse panel have caused some Freon (R12) to be expelled? Is there a possibility that after 43 years that the Freon level is low?Can you help me to find a solution?

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I have a relatively vintage Whirlpool side by side

Good afternoon.I have a relatively vintage Whirlpool side by side refrigerator model # ***** that started dripping from the water dispenser. The water valve seemed the most likely culprit so, I started to search.First problem was that the only model of that number I could locate was not a side by side, nor did it have the water and ice dispenser.Second issue was the model of the water valve I took from the unit, which was part #(###) ###-#### ***** I searched for that part number I found that it was similar, in that it had the water inlet and outlets for the ice machine and water dispensers, but not an additional section with 2 connectors for tubing that may be going to the water filter that's in the grill of the refrigerator. I can find no information nor parts online that address those last 2 connectors.Any suggestions? I'm not inclined to just hook up the 3 tubings because I'm fairly sure it's a closed system and we'll have a geyser.Thanks very much for any helpJim Branagh

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