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Recent Fuse Box questions

My turkey spattered wall oven was on the Self Clean mode for

My turkey spattered wall oven was on the Self Clean mode for 4 hours but when I came back to check on it after about 2 hours, the oven controls were completely black, oven door still locked and warm but not hot. Checked fuse box but fuse was not blown. What's happening and whaat do I need to do?JA: What's the make and model of your oven? And can you guesstimate how old it is?Customer: 3 yrs old Model#RBS245PRS06 24 " electric built in ovenJA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?Customer: probably not unless it's an easy fixJA: Anything else we should know to help you best?Customer: Not that I knowof

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Eng-Tech

Bachelor's in Electrical Engineering Technology

546 satisfied customers
Code 3E or E3 on Maytag washer; what is the issue?

I have a Maytag washer, I start the machine and the lights come on, the water comes in and after a few minutes I get a code of either 3E or E3. The machine just stops, I looked in my booklet and I can't find the code provided at all in the list printed in the book. So the only 'problem solving' action I can do is pull out the plug, I did nothing changed. Check the fuse box, all the electricity is working, and then check the filters. I know of no filters to check. I am told there are water filters that keep only water going in and out of the machine, but that is it.It’s between 6 and 10 years old, a very rough estimate. Where would I find the information of the exact model, do you know?

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Tyler Z.

Appliance Technician

Bachelor's Degree

73,552 satisfied customers
I HAVE A KITCHEN AID SUPERBA 27 DOUBLE OVEN ELECTRIC OVEN,

I HAVE A KITCHEN AID SUPERBA 27 DOUBLE OVEN ELECTRIC OVEN, MODEL # KEDO-276SS. SERIAL # 3089. NOT SURE WHAT SIZE WIRING TO USE AND THE SIZE OF BREAKER TO GET. HAVE ABOUT A 50 FOOT RUN FROM THE FUSE BOX TO THE STOVE. CAN YOU GIVE ME ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANK YOUJA: Can you guesstimate how old your KitchenAid is? And just to clarify, what's the exact model?Customer: NOT SURE ON THE AGE, GOT IT AT AN AUCTION, IT HAS NEVER BEEN USEDJA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?Customer: PROBABLY, IF IT IS NOT TOO HARDJA: Anything else we should know to help you best?Customer: NO, DON'T YHINK SO

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Tyler Z.

Appliance Technician

Bachelor's Degree

73,552 satisfied customers
My dishwasher - model SHX33A - won't turn on when I press

My dishwasher - model SHX33A - won't turn on when I press the switch on left hand side. I have checked the fuse box and switched it on and off several times.I did ask a neighbor to turn it off for me as I left on a trip, expecting him to just press that switch to turn off the end of cycle light. He has the same machine so I can't imagine what else he can have done. He did email me to say he had "unplugged" it. But I have no idea where that plug could be.Thank you !

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Tyler Z.

Appliance Technician

Bachelor's Degree

73,552 satisfied customers
We have a subzero 600 about 10 years old. The mail lights in

Hi,We have a subzero 600 about 10 years old. The mail lights in the roof went out. I tried them in other sockets and they work. Also the lights in the control panel are out.But the refrigerator was running until I went to the fuse box and turned the fuse off and on. Now the refrigerator doesn't work either.I tried the on/off switch. No response.Can you suggest something?Thanks!Bob

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Tyler Z.

Appliance Technician

Bachelor's Degree

73,552 satisfied customers
My Gaggenau double ovens are not working and on the display

My Gaggenau double ovens are not working and on the display it shows "F30"Can you help me please?

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Ezekiel

Appliance Repair Expert

556 satisfied customers
GE Refrigerator runs constantly, 24/7; never goes into off

GE Refrigerator runs constantly, 24/7; never goes into off cycle and the freezer and fresh-food sides are not cold enough. I have not taken a formal temperature reading yet.My refrigerator is about 43 years old, model TFF22DRC, side-by-side with a diverter. I have been using the GE repair manual over a long period to diagnose and repair my GE refrigerator. For over a month now, I haveHere is everything I can think of to tell you in order for you to help me to troubleshoot the problem, hopefully, to save my refrigerator for just a few more years without incurring an exorbitant cost:1.) I was repeatedly cycling the main fuse box in my house on and off and didn't take precautions by turning off my refrigerator;2.) I replaced defrost timer and cold (temperature) control;3.) I removed the evaporator cover and observed that there is no ice blockage on the coils;4.) I removed the air return (louvered) cover in the fresh food side about 2/3 of the way down the adjacent wall to the freezer side, by the fruits and vegetable drawer. Using a mirror, and my fingernail, I scraped a little bit of frost on the base of the evaporator;5.) I don't know if this is by design, but there is no silicone caulking along the butt edge where the ceiling inside the fresh food side meets the back wall inside the fresh food side.6.) Both the evaporator and condenser fans are operating. When I close the freezer door and I put my ear to the exterior wall of the freezer, I can hear the evaporator fan working. I noticed a small hairline surface scratch on one of the blades of the evaporator fan. I have felt the airflow through the diverter in the fresh food compartment but cannot determine if the flow rate is normal or not; the flow does not feel especially forceful, especially with the light cover in place. I keep the freezer diverter dial to mid range "C". I have put a tissue up against the return air louver with the fresh food door open and can detect some suction.7.) When I close the freezer door, a hissing or suction sound is heard, suggesting a low pressure development. I say this because it takes more effort to open the fresh food side door. I am wondering if this low pressure is developed because of the air flowing through that small gap along the butt line formed where there is no silicone caulking between the back wall and ceiling inside the fresh food compartment as I pointed out before.8.) There is no clicking coming from the relay/overvoltage/over-temp protector. I have plugged the refrigerator into 2 different locations where I am using power bars. One of these locations is characterized by a flickering light in the fresh food side when I turn the cold control on. There is some sort of cycling sound that occurs - some sort of advancing. After 1 or 2 minutes the compressor turns on. The TV, DVD, and VCR are also plugged in here so maybe it is a current problem - the fuse never blows at the main fuse panel. There I no dedicated circuit for the refrigerator. But there is one location where I can plug into a power bar which, for most of the time, is used to supply only the refrigerator. The other small appliances used for a very short time on this circuit are the toaster and the coffee maker.9.) The output (compression) side of the compressor feels hot to the touch, and the suction side from the evaporator feels cold to the touch. However, when feeling the 2 condenser coils behind the grill, they never feel hot to the touch. I seem to remember a long time ago that they were in fact hot to the touch. Should the liquid R12 flowing through the condenser be hot in order to get the fizzing action at the metering device where rapid evaporation occurs - much like we would observe when opening a pop bottle that has been shaken?10.) I have aligned the freezer door to be in-line with the exterior wall of the refrigerator which had the effect of decreasing the distance between the freezer and the fresh food doors;11.) I removed some small sheets (batts) of yellow insulation after the problem first arose to see if this would effect the airflow from the condenser fan and have some positive effect in the cooling effect of the condenser;12.) I used the long condenser brush from the front and from behind through the compressor compartment. Do I need to use a damp cloth?13.) When cleaning the tile floor under the refrigerator over the years, I have noticed some green deposits and deposits that may have been dust and moisture, or maybe Freon deposits? I am told that leaky deposits leave brownish, oily deposits which I don't seem to detect. The heat of the compressor seems to have discolored the tile floor.14.) Are there any blockages which I can clear, say, inside the condenser coils?15.) Could my turning the power on and off at the fuse panel have caused some Freon (R12) to be expelled? Is there a possibility that after 43 years that the Freon level is low?Can you help me to find a solution?

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Tyler Z.

Appliance Technician

Bachelor's Degree

73,552 satisfied customers
My whirlpool range is giving me fault code 2F9. The Oven

My whirlpool range is giving me fault code 2F9. The Oven light works, the red led signaling that the burners are in use comes on when the temp. knobs are turned on, and the clock display comes on. The issue is that no heating elements in the range or oven produce any heat.

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Tyler Z.

Appliance Technician

Bachelor's Degree

73,552 satisfied customers
I had two bathroom rugs in our front load LG washer. The

I had two bathroom rugs in our front load LG washer. The load became unbalanced and the washer moved all over and the washer shut down. I am unable to restart the washer. We have checked the fuse box, the plug-in, the beeper works when you push the set button. What do I need to do to fix this? model no. WM2016CW, Serial no. 807KWATo7664

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Kelly

Owner/Technician

High School or GED

33,262 satisfied customers
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