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Recent Exhaust questions
I have a 2003 Suburban Z71 with 153,000 miles. Recently when
I have a 2003 Suburban Z71 with 153,000 miles. Recently when backing up out of the garage, occasionally there has been a growling noise coming from the back of the vehicle. the noise is happening now with more frequency. It also now has made the same noise while in a stationary position, in reverse gear, with the brakes applied. By turning the wheel each direction, the growing would continue. Today I noticed that same noise moving forward from a stationary position.I'm headed to the Chevy dealership but I was hoping to have an ideal on what the problem may be or what to expect.
I have a 1978 camaro z28 350 small block 3 speed automatic.
I have a 1978 camaro z28 350 small block 3 speed automatic. Just purchased from a seller that treated the car like his baby. Engine has headers, mild cam ( hits 3000 rpms @ 70 mph) and corvette heads. Has a/c. Other than that the engine and car are original. Aproximately 60,000 original miles. This is the best description I can give not being an expert or even a semi knowledgeable car repair / mechanic.So I live in central California. It is over 100* degrees 2-4 months in the summer. So my temp gauge (sensor for temp gauge is located underneath the driver side header, on the bottom of engine block) in high heat, or even in normal heat, or at night time will reach 240* degrees. I've changed the thermostat, I have installed two 10" electric fans ( which seem to be pushing air flow through the radiator - as I put a piece of paper up to them it seems to get sucked up to them by air flow suction, but also, they seem to be blowing air outward as well??????? Don't understand that?????)....but yet the temp gauge still reads the same as it did prior to fans being installed. Frickn frustrated as all get out!!! Then if I'm using a/c (which is why this situation has started, I want to use a/c cuz it is so frickn hot, but when u see your temp gauge rising to the 240's to 250's u fear of damaging something, or even worse blowing up something when using a/c).... I purchased a lazer light temp gun and when pointing at sides of radiator (oem replacement, maybe 1-2 years old) they read aproximately 150*. I point the temp gun the heads and they read approximately 200*. I point temp gun at the sensor for the temp gauge and it reads approximately 250*. IS there anything I can do to lower the heat of this engine so I can comfortably use my a/c with no worries of over heating my vehicle????? Would an all aluminum, thicker 2 row radiator (which seems the only thing I hadn't done yet) be any benefit to lowering the temp?????Second new issue: I installed the 2 10" fans in front of radiator (have an on/off switch to manually turn on fans - which when even attempting to get a little bit futile of cool a/c air, I of course have turned on at all times - really I have fans on all times period when driving car). I also (should not have done this - car was running perfect) I instructed the mechanic to go ahead and change spark plugs. So we did all that. Now, my car after driving it for a while, when it gets hotter temp, when I accelerant there's this rattling sound, like a knocking sound when you use cheap gas....or like idk somethings metal to metal rattling. This only has starts since the fan installation and change of spark plugs. No new spark plug wires, or distributor or anything was changed, as it seems all of those items were in new tip top condition....Help!!!!!!Frustrated!!!!!Best,Matt Dunlap
It random misfire. It has gotten worse and now will not idle
It random misfire. It has gotten worse and now will not idle and has no power. You can smell gas at exhaust so I assume the injectors are firing OK. I replaced the mass air flow sensor but made no difference. It seems like one time it cylinders on bank 2 and other on bank 1 checked fuel pressure and it holds 60 pound all the time.JA: Does the engine stall right after starting? And what about hesitation or jerking during acceleration?Customer: It tries to run but only hitting on 4 or 5 cylinders it usually stalls It I give it gas slowly I can get the rpms up but will not hit on any more cylinders and when I leave off throttle it stalls.JA: What is the model/year of your Chevy?Customer: 2005 Silverado 2500 with 6.0JA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?Customer: I used my scan tool and it gives codes of O2 sensors on bank 2, mass air flow etc. I clear the codes and they do not come up again unless I try and push it into higher RPM and yes it gives random misfire on bank 2 usually.JA: Anything else you think the mechanic should know?Customer: fires injectors individually with scan tool and fuel pressure stays good and you can hear each injector enguage. I assume it is electrical or ???
Vocational, Technical or Trade School
I'm having issues with my brakes on a '77, 159k, no it's
Hi, I'm having issues with my brakes on a '77 MonteJA: How many miles are on the car? Are these the orignial brakes?Customer: 159k, no it's been in a garageJA: Are you fixing your vehicle yourself? What have you tried so far?Customer: just investigatingJA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?Customer: the brakes work if I don't push too hard on the pedal, but if I stand on the brakes hard they will go to the floor. no leaks, I hear an air exhaust at my feet when it goes to the floor.
I have a 1990 Chevy Suburban 1500 4WD with 5.7 Engine. It
Hi,I have a 1990 Chevy Suburban 1500 4WD with 5.7 Engine. It has been kind feeling like there is an engine miss sometimes going down the hiway. Not real bad but you could just feel it but it idled ok and revved up ok. I changed plugs, wires etc. and was same thing. The other day we bought a camper and pulled it for the first time and seemed like it was having a tough time making some of the hills. The other day we pulled a uhaul trailer and it started the check engine lite come on and off. Then later in the day it blew an exhaust gasket that sounds like is on the bottom of the driver side manifold where the pipe hooks up. I got home and pulled the codes which were a #13 O2 sensor circuit and a #44 Oxygen sensor Lean. the vehicle has 155,000 on it and never had the Cat converter messed with. It does use about a half to 3/4 of a quart of oil between changes (2000 mi) Do you think it is just the O2 sensor that needs changed or do I maybe have a plugged cat? Let me know what ya think. thanks!
Engine is now a 383 stroker, huge engine mods, running
Engine is now a 383 stroker, huge engine mods, running headers with 3/8" flange. I installed Stage 8 1" locking header bolts. There is a bracket on the driver's side that bolts to the alternator, power steering pump, and 1st 2 (from front) exhaust manifold bolts. I need to modify that bracket to get it to fit with the headers. The only possible place to secure the rear-most part of that bracket is between the 2nd bolt and header. The bracket is 1/8" thick. Will I have an issue (not deep enough), running a 1" bolt in that hole or do I need a 1 1/4" bolt. I really don't want to buy a whole kit with 1 1/4" bolts, but will if it's necessary. Thanks.
Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho
2011 cruze 1.8 crankshaft pulley broke, dealer replaced
2011 cruze 1.8 crankshaft pulley broke, dealer replaced pulley,timing belt and crankshaft sprocket. Never made off their lot without engine light and dying out. Codes pulled all seem to be related to cam position p0340,341,365,&366. Dealer would not diagnosis or recheck thier work as they said there was sludge buildup in engine and would cause these problems. I have replaced at independent shop Cam position sensor intake , and both intake & exhaust solenoids. Still codes still thereJA: How many miles are on the timing belt? Have you ever had to change it before?Customer: changed with pulley repairJA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?Customer: No I have a shop working on it they have drained oil and added additive to clean sludge replace both cam solenoids and replaced intake cam position sensor. Checked wiring harness no broke or pinched wires tested cam position harness for ressistance and over 5 volts. they want to try ecm & flash?JA: Anything else you think the mechanic should know?Customer: no
Automotive Repair/Damage Investigator
I'm working on a 2007 gmc 5500 with the LMM 6.6 L duramax. I
I'm working on a 2007 gmc 5500 with the LMM 6.6 L duramax. I am getting code P0299 and it seems like the turbo is not spinning. I was looking at the scan tool and the map sensor does not match desired boost. What should I test first? I have a pro link ultra for a scan tool.
2007 tahoe LTZ - smell of gas coming form l/s rear door at aView more chevy questions
2007 tahoe LTZ - smell of gas coming form l/s rear door at a stand still after running for some time. and in the A/CJA: Has the vehicle turned into a gas hog? And how does it start -- same as usual?Customer: seem to be using more gas nad starts up normalJA: What is the model of your '07 Chevy?Customer: Tahoe LTZJA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?Customer: 2 shops can not determine odor,- smoked the lines states no leakJA: Anything else you think the mechanic should know?Customer: no only 80K miles on the car