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Audi Camshaft Problems

Audi camshafts and Audi (CMP) sensors are generally quite reliable. Experts say Audi camshaft position sensor replacement, may occur quite rarely, even if the car were to be involved in a minor accident or due to regular wear and tear. In the event the replacement is necessary, it is relatively a simple fix as well as inexpensive. Audi camshaft replacements, on the other hand can be more complex and expensive.

To know more about similar problems faced with Audi camshafts, listed below are common questions answered by Experts.

What is the role of an Audi camshaft sensor on an Audi A4 Quattro 2.8L?

The role of the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is to provide the Audi camshaft position information referred to as the CMP signal. This information is needed by the Power train Control Module (PCM) for fuel synchronization. In case of two wire sensor engines, the distributor stator or Camshaft Position sensor (CMP) is generally a single hall-effect magnetic switch, activated by a single vane and driven by the Audi camshaft. On three wire sensor engines, the Audi camshaft sensor can be a variable reluctance sensor which is triggered by the high-point mark on one of the Audi camshaft sprockets. Audis with a distributor engine do not tend to use a separate Audi camshaft sensor. They utilize a traditional distributor installed with a Hall Effect device meant for this function. If there are intermittent wiring connections or faulty signals to the EMS, the related symptoms are as follows:

  • Extended crank time with a cold engine
  • Intermittent rough running
  • Unstable idle
  • Bucking
  • Hesitation
  • Stumble
  • Chuggle
  • Poor fuel economy
  • Stalling on acceleration

Where is the Audi camshaft located on the Audi All Road Quattro? 

Case details and additional question: It is a 2003 model, 2.7L engine. Also, is there a need for an alignment once the wheel bearing/hub assembly is replaced?

Typically there are two Audi camshaft position sensors (CMP), one at the front of the right head and one at the rear of the left head the CMP. There may not be a need for alignment after the wheel bearing or hub replacement. The control arms are not adjustable. Hence none of the components need to be “moved” during replacement. If this is an Audi camshaft problem, usually CMP sensor codes (P0341/P0346) are displayed. The reason for this could be that the timing belt is off physically.

How much would it cost to replace the Audi camshaft adjuster because of a ticking noise from the engine?

The Audi camshaft adjuster is also referred to as the cam chain tension. More than likely owners may not find just the camshaft adjusters online because they are dealer items only. The Audi camshaft adjuster also contains the solenoid will be needed all as one component. The cost however would be based on location, and it would be an additional amount to install it since the average labor time required. Usually the camshaft replacement takes about 11 hours.

Are Audi All-road (2004 model, 2.7T V6) camshaft replacements common?

There are chances where replacement is needed on APB/BEL engine camshafts due to worn out lobes, however problems with the sealing area of the Audi camshafts usually are not common. This is the case unless this area was damaged at the time of cam seal removal. To address this problem the entire Audi camshaft may need to be replaced.

Audi camshaft troubleshooting may involve various smaller components such as the Audi camshaft position sensor or the Audi camshaft adjuster. The symptoms and problems related to these components can vary as well as their repairs and costs. Owners will need to understand the problem they are facing with the Audi camshaft and the possible solutions. This is where Experts in this field can pitch in with their knowledge and expertise to provide options or answers to the particular problems.

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Recent Camshaft Questions

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    I am working on a 2007 audi A4 2.0t and I thought I was intelligent enough to change the timing belt but I'm pretty sure we completely messed up my timing and who knows what other damage we have done.

    The problem occurred when I was taking the timing belt off. I took it off and in the process I moved the Crankshaft. This wasn't a little move, I moved the whole thing a good half a turn at least. Now I'm stuck! I'm nervous because I know I shouldn't move the crankshaft without everything connected and now I have no idea how to get it back to TDC and really, what to even do at this point.

    I am really hoping there is somebody out there that may be able to assist me. Any ideas on how to make sure the engine is at TDC and how I could get the crankshaft at the right spot where it should be with the camshaft, water pump, etc?

    I have tried to read all different forums to figure out how to get it to TDC but can't seem to find an answer that would work for my situation. I may be completely screwed but I'm hoping somebody on here may be able to save the day. Thank you so much.
  • my lifters knock for a sec before oil gets up. starting about

    my lifters knock for a sec before oil gets up. starting about 6 months ago and its getting worse.
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  • Audi A4 Quattro: I have a 2002 Audi A4, 3.0 Quattro, Automatic

    I have a 2002 Audi A4, 3.0 Quattro, Automatic that I just purchased for cheap because it has a rough running issue with CEL. The codes thrown were P0345, P0300, P0306, P0302, P0305.

    I started with the Camshaft position sensor code, and replaced the sensors on the drivers side. After clearing the code, then starting the car, P0345 came right back.

    I then suspected that the timing may be off. The car has 87,000 miles, a Contitech belt on it and markings that lead me to believe that the car has had the belt changed with mistakes made. Many bolts are not tight or missing, as if the previous owner tried to correct the problem, and when unable to fix the problem, he buttoned it back up quickly and sold the car.

    My question is, how can I retime the car properly. I have not found any timing marks on the cam pulleys, but have not gotten into them yet.

    I have bought a cam tool for the car, http://www.ebay.com/itm/121298544797?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649.

    The problem is that the jaws are tapered, so that they clamp the cams in their present position, but appear to leave the possibility that the cam could be a tooth or 2 off in either direction and the clamp would still sit on there fine. So, I don't have confidence that the fact that the cam clamp tools go on is a positive indicator that some of the cams are a tooth or 2 off. I can try to take a picture to show what I mean.

    Additional info, the engine had minor sludge when I took off the valve covers. There was also a minor rustle from the engine when first started, but quieted down within a second or two. After that there were no mechanical noises or smoke from the tailpipe to make me worry about bent valves.

    Let me know what the best course of action to check the timing on this car is. Thanks.
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