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An alarm is a warning signal or sound installed into your
as a safety feature. It is usually present in most appliances such as refrigerators, washing machines, dishwashers,
and so on. The alarm generally gets activated when the appliance is trying to warn you that something is amiss with it. It could be door which has not closed, temperature crossing a certain limit or an indication of an error code. Listed below are a few common questions answered by Experts on alarm problems.
When the external drain closed on my Miele washer it triggered the alarm and lights for intake and drain. I have drained the washer at its base. How can I reset the washer for the alarm to stop?
This may sound unrelated to your issue but you will need to remove and re-insert the light bulb which is a special 12 volt light bulb directly connected to the controller. If this brings about no change, the drip pan under the unit could be full of water causing the flood/
to activate. Unplug the power cord from the wall socket. The drip pan can be removed by removing the kick plate or plinth and lifting it upwards. Clear out the water from the drip pan. You could use towels to absorb the excess water or vacuum it.
How to troubleshoot an alarm on a Frigidaire freezer door?
The first thing to try when the alarm goes off constantly would be to press and hold the alarm reset button for at least six seconds. Try it more than once to check if it can stop the alarm. If this does not help, the most likely problem is the control board failure. It probably needs to be replaced as there is no reset option other than what is mentioned above. To replace, unplug the freezer and use a blunt knife to remove it from the door. There are clips which hold it in place that need to be removed. Replace it with the new one and plug the freezer. Check the control setting in case the freezer does not start immediately. If the setting is fine, allow 40 minutes to pass and it should restart. It should be noted that some newer control boards begin with the defrost cycle.
In a Kitchenaid if the “over temperature” alarm keeps going off, but the temperature is fine, what can be done to fix this?
The “over temperature” alarm would be accurate only if the sensor was functioning fine and the freezer was getting warmer than required. The alarm should not get set off on a freezer getting colder than normal. Hence this could be a case of the temperature sensor of the freezer failing and may need to be replaced. Due to this the appliance is operating for longer periods leading to the alarm activation and frosting. The fridge temperature should and will be fine as it has a damper which modulates the air flow from the freezer to the fridge in order to reach the desired temperature whether the freezer getting colder or not.
Is there a way I can permanently disable the alarm on my Bosch refrigerator?
In most cases, there is no permanent method to disable the alarm button on a refrigerator. Bosch is also one of the many manufacturers who do not provide this as an option since the alarm is synonymous to a safety feature. The only likely possibility would be to tackle the speakers which produce the noise and the speaker wiring could be disconnected or cut off from the main control board.
On opening the refrigerator door the alarm sounds and the panel displays error code 24. What does this mean?
The 24 error code refers to either an icemaker sensor problem or a water valve issue based on the model. Check the sensor below the icemaker to ensure it is not disconnected or broken. In case it is broken or disconnected, you need to remove the clip underneath the ice tray and the little foam pad which is attached to it. The broken wire will be attached to a black sensor. It can be a little tricky but once you unplug the fridge you can merge the wires and reattach it.
Alarms are crucial to get your attention to take necessary action when the situation deems so. However there may be times when the alarm can continue sounding though you have taken care of the issue or there could be some other reason for it. To arrive at the solution you may need to follow simple elimination steps. To do so, the information and guidance from Experts could be very useful and necessary.
Recent Alarm Questions
We have a GE upright freezer, bought new in 9/2008. Model
We have a GE upright freezer, bought new in 9/2008. Model # ***** 17SVARWW.
The freezer runs quietly, is frost free, and has only ever had a "sticky" door switch, when new, which sometimes meant the interior light didn't come on upon opening the door. I manipulated the switch, so it loosened up, and the manual switch seems to function fine almost 100% of the time.
It's full, in our 62F basement (in winter temps), and has fine until THIS winter, when occasionally, the "Hi Temp" red LED would come on.
Upon opening the door, we find:
1. All the food is frozen.
2. The interior light is flashing, on and off, at IRREGULAR intervals, on average, probably once ever second or two. OR
3. Sometimes, there is NO interior light on at all.
We unplugged the freezer, and plugged it back in, and this seemed to "reset" something, and both the "Hi Temp" red LED would go out, and the interior light would go back on, steadily, as it should, with door open. It only occurred every few weeks.
We find we have to shut the door, first, for the replugging of the power to cure things.
Tonight, for the first time, BOTH red LED's were flashing (i.e., the “Hi Temp” and “Door Ajar” LEDS—even though door was SHUT), and repeated attempts at "replugging" the power cord in did nothing.
Also, as before, the interior light was flashing on and off, at quick (1-2 second) but irregular intervals, as before.
HOWEVER, also for the FIRST time, tonight, as I opened the door to see what was going on, I noticed that THE COMPRESSOR STOPPED, at the VERY INSTANT the door opened (I don’t know if that ever happened simultaneously, before).
Also, tonight, unplugging and plugging did NOT work, initially. But after 5-6 attempts, the lights normalized, the interior fan restarted and (I’m assuming) the compressor restarted, as well. Food remains frozen. (I will get a thermometer inside the freezer as soon as I can).
I suspect there is a control panel that is linked to the door light switch, that:
a) cancels the "Hi Temp" warning LED, temporarily, while the door is open, and;
b) activates a (silent) timer, so that the "Door Ajar/Hi Temp"(?) AUDIBLE warning would come on, IF one didn't close the door after a pre-set time (maybe 5 minutes?) and;
c) possibly cuts power to the compressor, for "Energystar Rating" purposes, while the door is open.
Can you offer a plan of attack/diagnostic tree, for me to attempt to troubleshoot this?
The freezer was $500-600., has worked perfectly, never been wet (I built a platform for it from Day 1) and has never been abused. I would like to save money (and the planet), if I can, by simply replacing what I hope is an (accessible) control module.
I’m familiar with automotive OBD II “Check Engine” light flash codes, and I have read something about counting the consecutive flashes in a FREEZER, for diagnostic purposes, but have not done so yet. Should I count the LED flashes, or the INTERIOR LIGHT flashes, or both?
Next time it happens, I will see if the interior light flashing is synched to the LED’s flashing.
Thank you, ***** *****—I know this post is probably longer than most.
Good morning. I have a Maytag side-by-side refridgerator -
I have a Maytag side-by-side refridgerator - Model #MFI2266AES. The ice/water dispenser beeps when I push any buttons or depress the ice dispenser bar. I just replaced the control board yesterday, but it didn't fix the problem. Any suggestions?
I have a Whirlpool top washer and it makes a sound but it is
I have a Whirlpool top washer and it makes a sound but it is not moving. I unplug it and plug it again and the problem still is the same. I am afraid that it will burn.
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