Subaru Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Is it an automatic or manual transmission?
First, check and make sure the yellow/blue stripped wire isn't pinched between the block and the transmission.
If it's not pinched, check SBF #4 and make sure it's not blown. The low voltage could be from the fusible link to the ignition switch being blown.
Also, make sure the ring around the ignition switch is not red. If it's red the security system could have you shut down.
Please let me know.
Check the blue/red for power with the ignition switch on
The yellow/blue comes out of the inhibitor switch and to the starter. Originally you posted you had 6 volts on this wire. Is there no voltage on it now?
Easiest access to check the blue/red is at the same connector, then down at the inhibitor switch on the side of the transmission. You can also check the other wire down there as well. Basically the power comes from the relay through the blue.red, then through the switch and out the blue/yellow to the starter. The key has to be in the start position when doing the testing.
Let me know.
First, the wire colors I gave you are the only 2 wires involved with the starter at the T3 connection at the inhibitor. The other wires are for the positions to the TCM which I don't even have on the wiring diagram. If you are going to add power to any wire, it should be the blue/red wire. You can do that at the T3 connector or the T7 connector, doesn't matter, the wire colors are the same for the whole shot.
Thing is, if you have to add power to that wire, then one of the relays has failed. Or the security has the power shut down to the starter. The keyless entry control module grounds the starter interupt relay and allows power to flow to the starter interlock relay. The starter interlock relay is what powers up our blue/red wire. It sounds like it is possible the key fob and not being able to program it would or could be the issue with the starter relay as well.
Remember though, you will not have any power to the b/r unless you are in the start position on the key.
Ok, and yes, now that you pointed that out I do see it. The wire color change I mean.
I think if you aren't getting any power on the b/r, then it's highly likely there is a problem with the module not grounding the interupt relay. This is the one that gets the show going. Or one of the 2 relays themselves has failed.
The fact that you can't program the remote kind of makes me think there may be an issue there.
I assume no issues prior to installing the new engine?
Yes, agree with the inhibitor switch being the cause of the problem. Try putting the car into neutral and see if it changes the readings, if it does, then you know the switch has failed. Very happy to hear it has full voltage going in. Pretty good indicator its shot.
It shouldn't prevent the programming the key fob. You can't program the keys without the dealer scan tool and security codes for this model year. Thing is, if your ring is green, your key program is ok, or should be at least.
That doesn't make any sense to me because you have the power going into the inhibitor.
The service manual doesn't tell where the interrupt relay is. I do have a diagram of the wiring harness so it will at least get you in the area of it. Listen for that click and see if you can locate it.