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Hello I will help you with your question,
What do you mean "burning out"?
Is it melting?
Ok, that would be different.
Your brake lights do not come on at all when this happens?
Is there any physical damage to the switch?
Do you have a voltmeter to check the circuit if I guide you?
Original style tail lights and bulbs?
Let me know so I can help
OK, if you remove the switch and connect it then push the plunger all the way in do the brake lights go out? If they do it is an adjustment not the switch. The plunger of the switch must be fully pressed into the body of the switch when the pedal is all the way up but not holding the pedal off its stop. It may have just vibrated out of the correct mounting position.
Let me know what happens with that
Are you getting these from Autozone?
The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the brake switch it is a different circuit, it sounds like the NS switch is working as expected.
If you can adjust it up and use the nut to lock it in place that is all that is needed. If you are putting the same brand of switch in I would try one from NAPA or any other store than AZ.
Let me know how I can help
As I posted above, Are you getting the same switch from the same place every time?
You may want to try a different brand if you are.
Maybe you found the right one then. You can try it and see now that you have it adjusted proerly. The switch will carry all the current that the normal brake light bulbs and the third light if equipped will draw so as long as the car is stock it should not "burn out".
You keep saying they burned out and I don't see any way that would happen if the switch was not melted. Did you check the switches with an ohmmeter?
OK, then they were melted
You need to check the brake light bulbs to be sure they are the correct ones, if they are check your fuse to see if it is one of the Chinese ones that never blow open. If they cane from Harbor Freight it needs to be replaced with real fuses.
If the wire from the brake switch to the bulb shorts it is the fuse's job to open, the switch can carry far more current that the fuse will allow so under no circumstance should the contacts melt unless it is very poor quality.
Please let me know what you are seeing so I can help
Fuse #16 in the fuse block is the brake lamp fuse.
The point is the switch melted without blowing the fuse. There have been import fuses that will not blow even if you run 120 amps through them but they are marked at 10, 15 , 20 amps. They came From China and look like what you can buy here but they are dangerous. You are not going to find a blown fuse.
Let me know how i can help
I am both, I have repaired cars for more than 30 years, I have a degree in Automotive technology and one in electronic technology. I am Subaru certified and worked in Subaru dealers for more than 10 years. I am also an ASE Master Technician with an additional certification in advanced drivability diagnosis called an L1.
I don't know about the fuses, where did the ones you have in your fuse panel come from and is there a 20 amp fuse in the brake fuse location?
I owuld certainly replace the 20 amp brake light fuse with a new one from a major autoparts store. It has been a few years since the HF ones came out but there still could be some floating around out there and the price is usually the clue they came from offshore.
If the fuse blows then you know you have a short that needs to be found BUT you will not burn any more switches.
Great, please let me know if you have further questions