I have a 1998 Subaru Outbact Legacy. It needed a engine and had no computer. I replaced the engine with one from a 1997 Subaru Legacy GT and got a computer out of a 98 outback at salvage yard. It runs good but im getting a flashing check engine light. I took it to a local machcanic that has worked on Subaru's. He tried to read the computer and it would not read. He said the aftermarket security system was interfering with the computer. He removed it then had trouble reconnecting all the wiring. He still couldn't get the computer to read, he thought the computer was bad. I bought a used computer from a 98 outback, he then said he couldnt figure out all the wiring because none of the colors matched from the wiring to the computer...UGH!!!Do you have any suggestions to help me?? Would you have a wiring diagram for the computer? I'm not sure what to do from this point. Like I said the car seems to run fine but the flashing check engine light is very disturbing!Thanks for your help, Dale
Country: United StatesMake: SubaruModel: Outback 2.5I BasicYear: 1998Engine: 2.5
Welcome to JA! I am Carguy1 and I will assist you today.Hi there!Does the check engine light flash with just the key on and the car not running?
Oh,ok, go under the dash on the driver side of the car. Look for a very bright green connector and unplug it.I think on the 98 it's over near the hood release but could be wrong. It is under the dash on the driver side however. Find it, unplug it and it should resolve the problem. Someone who doesn't know Subaru's must have plugged it in. This is there for testing purposes and not to be plugged in.Try this and let me know.Please be sure to rate my answer and thank you.
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Carguy1 you are Awesome! The flashing check engine light is off now, but the ABS light is still on. Is there some switch or connection to make it go off? Also since I unhooked the green connector like you suggested, do you think I will be able to read the computer for fault codes now? Before, the machanic said it would not show anything, but now I'm starting to think he didn't know what he was doing after talking to you.Thanks so much, Dale
Well, the abs has to be read, there is no trick like there was for the check engine light.As for reading the codes, he should be able to, however, I would just clear them and drive it. The green connector makes all of the different solenoids cycle at different times. If they cycle at the wrong times with the engine running, then you will have about 10 codes and they will all be false.
So how do clear all the codes?Or are they cleared now that I have unhooked the green connector?
If the check engine light is off, then there are no codes, otherwise you can disconnect the battery for an hour. This will reset everything.
Ok, let me see if the computer can read, if so I'll close this ticket. I'll let you know shortly.Thanks, Dale
Sounds good, I suspect it should if the car is running good.
I've driven car 2 times now. Check engine light came on solid and both times engine pegged temp needle to hot. I checked and anti freeze seems to be coming from overflow and I see some bubbles in overflow. I felt of bottom hose and it is cool not hot? Top hose is hot. As i was letting the car cool down i notice the top hose is sucked in (clapsed). Is this a sure sign of blown headgasket? How can I be sure? I can't believe it!
Yes, this is a head gasket most likely. The car overheats before the thermostat can open because the hot exhaust gets into the coolant.If you smell it, you can probably smell the exhaust in the coolant.Sorry to say this after all you have been through with this car already!
One last thing, it idles smooth, but when accelarating I noticed, usually shifting around 2nd and 3rd, that engine seemed to miss or hesitate once it got warmed up. Would this be some type of sensor problem(maybe EG) or would it be ECM related?? I think I made a mistake getting this one...at least I got it fairly cheap though.Thanks, Dale
Well, I would say it's possible there is an issue with the TPS, but really if the head gasket is leaking the first place to start is to get the engine running normal.If I had to guess though I would say a possible issue with the TPS.
Please remember to rate my answers. Thank you.
Oh I won't forget, you'll get my highest marks. You've been a big help. Is there a way to check and make sure the computer is readable now other than taking it to a dealer? I don't live close to a Subaru dealer and I don't really trust the guy I sent it to last time.
If you have an autozone nearby they will read the codes for you at no charge.Or you may be able to get a code reader and check it yourself.If there is any chance you still have the original ecm, I would put it back in the car. I am sure there was nothing wrong with it at this point.
Well a little good news. I got the computer reader like you said from AutoZone and computer worked find, I was able to read the codes. Showed a P0325 Knock Sensor.
Boy, sure sounds like the HG to me, but might not hurt to try a new thermostat.Also, make sure the cooling fans come on when they should, especially if you tend to over heat when running the A/CFor the 325, just put another knock sensor on it, this is a common code and the most common problem is knock sensor failure.It's mounted to the block on the driver side, to the left of the throttle body. One 12 mm bolt holds it on.
I put a new thermostat in it. I made sure to buy a OEM thermostat and looked at it to make sure it looked the same as old one. It was kind of a off set type thermostat. I may not have done the HG test correctly. Is there some else that could cause bubbles in the overflow? I've not ran AC yet. Tonight when I drove it, the car took 25 mins to start getting hot, then it just dropped right back to normal, then 10 mins later back to hot, then back to normal. After about 45 mins it ran hot, but I didn't see bubbles then. Could the radiator just need burping, but what would cause running hot??
Maybe an air pocket.When you fill it with coolant, remove the plug on the passenger side of the radiator. Fill it until coolant comes out of the plug, then put the plug back in and top it off.Might be the problem.If you had the heads machined then they should be fine, if not then they have to be checked for warpage to make sure the deck is flat. If they are out over .003 inches I think it is, then they will not seal.Also, there are 2 final stages to the torque, 90 degrees, then another 90 degrees. I see the second torque step missed a lot. These are the final 2 steps in the process.