what is the procedure for changing the starter assy on a 2002 outback 3.0 vdc
Country: United StatesMake: SubaruModel: Outback 3.0 R LimitedYear: 2002Engine: 3.0 vdc
Hello I will help you with your question,
This is a very easy procedure. The hardest part is getting the air intake seated back on the throttle body when you are done replacing the motor.
The service procedure is below, look this over and let me know what I can do to help you with this
Click here for procedure
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ASE Master Tech 15 + Years
i will try that-also, are you good on the climate control A/C system? Mine would work intermittently and then the clutch stopped engaging at all. I can jump it at the relay, there is no switched ground available at the coil but there is 12v- i extended the relay on a socket. However, the auxiliary fans do kick in when the A/C icon appears-wiring possibility?
My first guess on the Ac is that the relay is not holding but you took care of that with a new one?Is the system pressure good?You do not have ground To the coil of the relay?i am at dinner right now but will take a look at the circuit when I return and see if there is a reason that the computer would be turning it off.Do you have a check engine light on?George H41095.9118128125
check engine light is on for Bank 1emission. I did swap relays in the beginning-like a dummy i charged when it didn't need it and the compressor was forcing freon and oil out both ports so I may have done damage. I do not have ground to the coil-if i ground the clutch engages. In all cases the aux fan comes on when the dash shows the A/C icon and fans off when it goes away.
You may be overcharged enough to trigger the high pressure switch and the compressor shuts off.
In any case the pressure switch or evaporator switch is what I would suspect. The ECM is doing the grounding of the relay but if you have no ground signal the input to the ECM from one of the pressure/temperature switches may be going away. Even the ambient temp sensor could be intermittent enough to trigger the ECM into thinking it is too cold out for compressor operation.
See if you get anything with the self diagnosis when the problem is occurring. If you can get a code let me know and I will help you with the meaning
You need to get inside this system so it may take a scantool if you don't get anything with the self check
Let me know how I can help
if the ECM thought it was too cold to turn on the compressor would it enable the auxiliary cooling fan as if it were running the compressor? I have a diagnostic to pull the codes from the universal conector-is that adequate as a scantool
You would need a Subaru or pro level aftermarket tool that will see the data. Your code reader will not do this. I guess you only have the O2 sensor code so we can bypass that. See what the self check shows, if you need help running it let me know
never ran a self check, so let me know.
OK, I posted the procedure above so let me know the results or if you have questions about what to do.
Just click where it says "click here for procedure" in the window above
Whoever wrote those starter instructions never had to take off the nut on the lower stud mount. Trying for the A/C system next. Let you know. Appreciate that you went well above and beyond and will contact you more, if possible, to deal with a few other issues.
,I will settle with you when I am wrapped on some of this stuff.
Thank you for letting me know what you are facing. The nut is usually no an issue, what problems are you having with it?
I just had to crawl on the block and the 2 extensions were just shy and the breaker bar was a bit too long; couldn't get leverage. the right tools help. So no problems other than personal, the starter is in and fine. Been pushing bad contacts on the old one for 2 years. Let you know how the rest works out.
Glad to hear you got it, please let me know what I can do to help
on the a/c i get 20,30,41 and functions seem to work except compressor then 51-outside is 81,inside is 98 and 98 Measured temp inside about 88
Where did you get 51?
The rest of the report seems normal but the 51 is one of the sensors?
I should have posted the table before but better late than never, it is below and is referred to during the self check you ran.
Click here for table
I would not be concerned with the 98 reading during the sensor check but the 51 could be your trouble. Is it the evap sensor?
Let me know if you can and we can figure out if the 51 is a good reading or an indication of trouble.
is it difficult to pull the front rotors to have them turned? They are pulsing. Been that way since shortly after i bought it in 2003-also, anyone know the climate control system well enough to say if it will turn the aux fan on if there is a problem or should it just be with the compressor. I am thinking bad connection but don't know the system well enough. All the errors in the table are in the 40s and I think it is a system statement for what should happen at each number-
I was asking at what point in the testing you saw the 51 code? As you can see the codes are 40s so if it was on the sensor test then you should rerun the test.
The rotor procedure is below, they are of a conventional design so pulling them and replacing is straightforward
Let me know how you saw the 51 code
IT WAS THE LAST procedure when it told me to cycle thru the 3 temp sensors-the 40s was a function check for all the fan/heat combinations. Didn't allow for any errors in the 5th section
,IT WAS THE LAST procedure when it told me to cycle thru the 3 temp sensors-the 40s was a function check for all the fan/heat combinations. Didn't allow for any errors in the 5th section. a soon as i advanced the temp control from the 40s it showed 51 then i stepped thru the 3 sensors and it would wrap around.
OK, that is what I thought from how you posted the results but I am not there so I have to make sure of these results.
You saw a 51 then the temp readings?
Can you try it again or have you tried it again? You need to be running this when the system is showing the problem. I am interested in the part where you cycle the compressor.
Without a scantool this is the only way you have to control the system. If the compressor will not run when you command it on with the controls then the fault is in the wiring to the clutch or the clutch itself. You may have too much airgap but with the self test you can see if one of the sensors is telling the controls that conditions are not correct to be running the compressor so that is why you have to catch it when the problem is happening.
It would be better if it was broken all the time but.......
Let me know what you find
no problem-clutch ok 'cause i can jump the contacts and it engages-for sure the cutout swicth must be engaged or i would have had a higher reading on the low side when i overfilled it. Brakes for tonight and back to the rest tomorrow
Ok, let me know what you see and how I can help