how do i remove rear bumper fascia of 2002 legacy outback? The sides and bottom are loose but the top is giving some challenge.
Model: Legacy outback
Welcome to Just Answer1. Know your product. The bumper is a plastic outer fastened to a pressed metal frame. The plastic is held to the frame with several re-usable press fasteners. You do not remove the bumper from the frame. The press fasteners that matter are the central three underneath the centre of the bumper, and one each side just behind the wheel arch. All those fasteners along the top under the tailgate rubber? You leave them in place. The outer two fasteners underneath stay in place as they attach to a drop-hanger on the frame. Same with the one each side, midway between the wheel arch and the rear corner. To remove the fasteners you need a flat blade screwdriver and some good fingernails. Pull up the central button, it will stop at about a half inch. Hold that up and pry up the fastener. Some will have dirt in behind and need a bit of wriggling. Some will be brittle and might snap. Inside are four legs that spread outwards when the central button is pressed home. You need to allow those four legs to bend inwards, take it easy. They are re-usable if removed carefully. 2. Remove the fasteners. Remove the mud flaps. There are three bolts, two into the bumper plastic, one tucked inside in the top corner (the wheel is a bit in the way for the spanner). Remove the bolt from the front top edge of the bumper just behind the wheel. Remove the front press fastener from underneath, just behind the wheel. This one goes into a squarish plastic fitting (leave the fitting in place). The fastener half way back attaches to a metal piece that is part of the bumper and frame. Leave it there. Remove the three central fasteners from underneath the bumper. Leave the outer two. 3. Unbolt the frame. Open the tailgate and remove the floor pieces. This means, the wheel cover, the outer carpeted peices, and the foam pieces underneath. Remove the plastic trim piece that runs along the rear edge. It is held on with four snap fittings. Remove it with a flat blade under the front edge. It levers up easily, but take it carefully. You will see the metal frame running along each side. There are three plastic grommets each side, one grommet is just underneath the trim behind the tail light. Remove the round grommet you can see, and the round grommet under that trim. You can leave the oval grommet. The bolts for the pressed metal frame are under those round grommets. You need a 17mm socket and the rearmost bolt needs an extension to reach it. Unscrew and remove two bolts each side. You are now ready to remove the bar and frame assembly. 4. Pulling out the bumper. There are two clips you have to release on each side. One is at the very front point. It needs to be pulled slightly outwards and will clip off the car body. The second clip is at the top edge of the bumper plastic, about halfway between the wheel and rear corner. It's directly above the fastener you have left in the bottom. This clip is like a little mushroom attached to the body with a 'two prong' mating part inside the bumper. It needs to be pulled directly rearwards. When you have released the front clip, give a solid palm-punch to the bumper edge where the mudflap lives. This will push the bumper back an inch or so and release the mushroom clip. The whole bumper and frame will now slide easily away from the car. Suddenly you can see how they fit all those fasteners in place under the tailgate rubber. !! 5. Putting it all back. Line up the two frame legs to slide back into the bolt passages. Line up the top edges of the bumper so those side clips are in position. The mushroom clip can be lined up proud of the clip, then a sharp inward hit on the plastic will lock it into place. The mushroom is tapered so it works from this position. The front clip locks in place, but it will need some help to position it. You will see how that's done when you have it out. 6. Something to be wary of. When you have the bumper and frame off the car you need to put it somewhere. It does not sit easily on the ground right way up. Do not turn it upside down and put it on a concrete driveway. This will scratch the paint off the top edge and those scratches will be visible when you have it all back together, especially down each side. When you are setting it up for removal, check that I've described all the fasteners properly. If it's unwilling to move, check that I haven't forgotten one in these instructions. If you are fitting a towbar you are likely to have trouble with the bolts as they are not long enough. The original bolts have a fitted flat washer and spring washer. And the thread does not go all the way to the end of the bolt, there is a positioning area with no thread. A towbar needs longer bolts. Or you need to remove both washers. Do not try to push the washers along the thread, you will damage the thread. You need to cut them with a hacksaw. It's easier to use new bolts. They are 12mm with 1.25 thread. 7. That's it. The first time you do this is the hardest. Allow a half hour the first time.
Many years the hood
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