I'm installing a sliding door with 9'10" R.O. on an exterior load bearing wall in a Cape Cod style home. The floor and ceiling joists run parallel to the exterior wall in question. What type of temporary support is necessary when removing the existing wall studs to carry the load from above down to the floor so I can then remove the studs and install the header? Is it sufficient to nail or maybe lag screw a 2x12 into top plate across the existing opening and then remove the studs thereby allowing the header to be slipped behind it?Also, similar situation on adjacent exterior wall where a french door will be installed but in this case the ceiling joists run perpendicular to the exterior wall. I was thinking a temporary wall 2' or so parallel to exterior wall opening to pick up floor load from above to floor joists below and then a 2x12 lagged across opening to carry the exterior wall load? Does this sound sufficient?
Not proceeding until options safely considered and evaluated.
Hi, I can help.
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If the framing is parallel then it's not a load bearing wall.
What is the facade? brick? siding? stucco? other?
Exterior siding is cedar shingles on plywood sheathing. Cape Cod style home with dormer to rear running length of house. As I wrote, ceiling joists in first case are parallel to this exterior wall but the existing studs occupying the intended 9'10" opening certainly serve a purpose to carry the exterior load of shingles, sheathing and a portion of the floor load not carried by the nearest adjacent parallel ceiling joist. Removing these studs without transferring the load beforehand from siding above would cause a sufficient deflection of the two top plates, or so I think, to require an adequate temporary structure (the 2x12 I thought lag screwed across the R.O. into the top plate and at location of eventual king stud, no?
Yes, you do, but it's a lot more substantial if it's a true load bearing wall.
Can you tell me if the rafters are parallel or perpendicular?
I don't follow. How could it not be a true load bearing wall as it is the exterior wall of the home? If it weren't a load bearing wall then I wouldn't need two 2x10 headers to traverse the space for the sliding doors.
If the framing is parallel, then it's not supporting anything substantial.
Rafters are parallel to this wall. I understand that it is minimal load since the rafters are parallel but, again, two 2x10 headers wouldn't have been spec'd if it weren't a concern. Are you saying that I don't need any temporary bracing before removing studs representing the rough opening? I wouldn't necessarily be concerned it would otherwise collapse without temporary support but I don't want any deflections across the top plate that might interfere with proper installation of the header which was spec'd to abut to top plate across its width.
That's typical for any exterior wall, load bearing or not. I'm not disagreeing with you that you need a header, I'm just pointing out that it's not load bearing.
Your approach of lagging in a 2x12 on each side is a good one. Lag into the studs to be cut so they're supported, but supportthe ends differently.
Well I don't want to lag into studs to be cut since that would interfere with their removal. I wanted to locate the 2x12 to overlap at least one of the two top plate 2x4's, lag the 2x12 in at king studs on each side and then maybe lag into the top plate at 1/3 of span and 2/3 of span, so 4 lag screws in all. I'm thinking a 1/2" lag screw would be sufficient. I could then cut the existing studs out and slide the final header into position on top of a single jack stud already in place and then put final jack in place to support opposite end (couldn't otherwise get the header to slide into place with both jacks pre-installed). How's that sound?
I re-read your response and maybe there is a misunderstanding. My 2x12 would lap over the R.O. horizontally at roughly same position of final header but, of course, since it is lapped onto framing would allow me to slide the final header behind it into the space vacated by the studs that were removed.
PS I was a structural engineer in my earlier career in the nuclear industry and as such did not have much practical application to residential construction. Graduated from UCONN in 1981. I switched to s/w engineering maybe around 1989-90. Never got my P.E. since it didn't really make much sense.
Then how do yo plan to support them?
Them meaning the 2x12? It is lag screwed into the king stud at either end temporarily while the new header is slid into position. The king studs should be sufficient, no? If you mean the final header, then it rests on the jack stud on each side or maybe two jack studs on each side if necessary.
And how are you supporting the studs while you cut them out?
You lost me. That's what the lapped 2x12 is for. Am I missing something? Once the 2x12 is lapped into position that is the support, transferring the load from the top plate to the 2x12 with the lag screws and across to the king studs at either end in the same way that the header would.
As I wrote, onto the existing king stud at either end, you know the way drywall would be lapped onto studs but in this case a 2x12 instead. 2x12 spans the R.O. at top, screwed into top plate and king studs.
Ok. I didn't see the screwing into the top plate
That should work fine. with a 2x12 on each side. I would make sure teh king sutd is at least a double (preferably a tripe). If it isn't, make it that way.
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Oops! I had hit Accept and then re-read your response. What, do you mean 2x12 on each side? 2x12 on inside and on exterior? We started with it isn't really necessary to support at all since it is a 'non load bearing wall' and now I need 2 2x12s lapped?
Right, but you want to keep it symmetric