Small Engine Troubleshooting Problems? Ask a Mechanic Now.
Hello,. my name is ***** ***** I am going to assist you with this.
What is the full model number of the genset?
Does it run on gasoline or LP?
That is not the whole model number. There is a letter after the "26101", and I need that letter.
The 26101A is an old points driven unit. There is not much to the ignition system - points, coil, plug wires, plugs, and capacitor.
First start with the points. Make sure the contacts are not pitted and/or burnt. If they are. clean them up or replace them. If replacing the points, also replace the capacitor. Make sure the points are properly gapped to 0.016".
Next test the coil. Remove all wires from the coil. Set your meter to ohms, and place one lead to each of the small terminals. You should get a reading of 3.8 - 4.7 ohms. Now place one meter lead in each of the high tension terminals (where the plug wires plug into). You should get a reading of 12,600 - 15,400 ohms. If either of these readings are out, the coil is bad.
If both the points and coil are good, the capacitor may be bad.
Dang it - I've got too many questions going on. I could have sworn yours was the one with no spark - disregard the above.
ON y9ours, you need to check the choke. Make sure it is closing when cold, and opening fully when hot - about 2 - 3 minutes running time.
And really, if it is only running rough for about 30 seconds, that is not bad - especially if it is cold out.
You might try and adjust the choke a little bit to see if it helps.
At the very bottom of the list, you might be dealing with a regulator that is going bad, especially if the temps are below about 35 or 40 degrees where you are at, but testing the fuel system requires special tools and training.
as long as you have them gapped to .025", they should be good. But sometimes when it is cold out, you can close them up to about .020" to get a little hotter spark.
But definitely check the choke.
Yes, the choke needs to be set with the engine off - at first. Adjusting the choke is a touchy thing. It needs to be set, then the unit run to check the operation. If not correct, the unit must be cooled completely down before adjusting again.
To check a regulator, you need a CALIBRATED air supply and a manometer. The manometer is a highly sensitive device, as operating pressure on the regulator is typically less than 1/2 psi. The gas system is nothing to be messing with if you have not had the proper training.
It is after 10PM here on the East Coast, and I have to get u at 5AM to go to work. I have a 13 hour shift tomorrow, so I have to get to bed.
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Yes, no load frequency should be about 61.5 - 62 Hz.
Voltage can vary anywhere from about 118 - 124.