Welcome to JUST ANSWER small engines, let me try to help you !!
See picture # XXXXX , showing the fuel shutoff solenoid. It has to stay open for engine to run. If it shuts off, no fuel to the main jet in the carburetor. It requires 12 volts to operate.
It should click open as soon as key is turned on., Listen for the click. Then when unit quits, listen for the click. No click, no fuel.
You can remove it and plug the hole and run test without it in the carb.
Common problem on Briggs engines.
Let me know. Thank you.
ok i can clearly hear the click when i turn ignition key on, then when i turn it back off i can hear the click again. does this tell me the solenoid is good? you can't buy just the solenoid, you have to buy the float bowl which has the solenoid attached to it. it's about $ 50.00 . also the tractor does start and run for approx. an hour, so it's shuttin off after the coils heat up. keep in mind i only put one new coil on, because i was getting a good reading from the other one.. should i check and see if i'm getting 12v at the plug to solenoid? also it's kind of hard to tell, does the solenoid screw onto the float bowl?
The solenoid screws into the float bowl. If one coil was going bad, it would still run on one cylinder. For both coils to quit, there would have to be something grounding the spark.
ok, so your saying it's probably not the other coil yes or no ? i checked and i'm getting 12v at the solenoid plug. i want to be sure about the solenoid. you want me to listen for the click when i turn the key on, then after the tractor is running again and it stops again , listen again for the click. no click after it stops on me= a bad solenoid.
Correct on the solenoid test. And yes, I don't think you have a bad coil. This engine has the two, and it will run on one cylinder.
ok thanks curtis
hi Curtis, i need to revisit this small engine question. i got around to replacing the fuel shutoff solenoid you advised me on, back in July. but now the engine is racing. i had to remove the bracket that holds the choke cable etc for easier access to screws i float bowl, in order to replace solenoid. possibly i moved a spring or somehing. can you point me in the right direction here. i have not adjusted any screws or anythinglike that. when i move the choke control lever it seems to moving the full distance, from choke postion to low engine speed, but it is racing big time.. prior to replacing solenoid i had replaced fuel filter and fuel pump and fuel hoses, gas is moving freely up to the carb. thanks Garrey
back again, ok curtis i think we're on the same page. i want to make sure i'm looking at the same detail you're talking about. coming out of the engine there is sqare headed bolt that runs through the the end of the lever arm you're talking about, it has a bolt running through it and is secured with a nut. now, when i move that lever back and forth the engine responds by running slower and faster. the problem is i can't see a way to adjust the travel for that lever. on the other end of that lever is a stop that hits an adjusting screw, but that screw adjusts for the down travel of that lever, i need it to stay in place when i push it up, because when i hold that lever up the engine slows down to normal speed. where do i find this outdoor power link, so i can look at some pictures?
The lever , do you get any kickback from it when you rev the engine? The adjustment is made by loosing the lever bolt and turning the shaft in the lever, then securing it with the bolt and nut. http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_v-twin_carb.asp
ok so does turning the shaft "in" lower rpms, i'll go try it
how do you adjust throttle cable? what do you do after loosing screw that holds cable? where should lever be? in choke position or fast? low? in between?
i've been trying to adjust the shaft coming out of governor but it's rusted in place. i sprayed it down and will try again tomorrow.
Hello Curtis, lets go back to step one here. this was a follow up question to one that i submitted back in July, the end result of that question was you told me to replace the fuel shutoff solenoid. ( this was a yth 2348 husqvarna riding mower, engine model 445577 1187B1) so lets start there. before i replaced solenoid the tractor started and ran fine, you had me replace solenoid, because it was stopping on me. ok my current problem stemed from my changing the solenoid, it was after that the the engine starting racing. so far you have told me to adjust throttle cable, which i'm not sure if i did it right, when you say "housing" do you mean the material covering the inner length of steel running through cable? and you just loosen clamp and pull slightly towards engine to adjust? if so i did that and no change, engine still racing. the governor bolt i still can;t get it to rotate. what about the springs that attach to the bracket and the throttle levers? when you move the lever to the choke postion the cable moves the linkage, but when you pull the lever back down to the fast position the rear lever, which has the springs attached to it, does not move the linkage, but if i take my hand and push the linkage up, then the engine runs at normal speed. so what do you think? may be the cable needs to be replaced, or those springs. like i said i can get the engine to run at normal speed, if i manually move the linkage. thanks Garrey
Hi Curtis, yes it seems like there is resistance there when i push up on the linkage manually. i'm going on a trip tomorrow, be gone about ten days. we'll take this back up when i get back. or do you want me to close this out and start again when i return? if this turns out to be a broken governor, i'm guessing having to go inside engine etc, which, if i have it done, will be really expensive for a guy on a pension, but i'm not sure i can do it myself.do you get into something like changing a governor?
Hi Curtis, we're back from going down south. i've ordered a new governor spring and linkage, won't be in for a week. i'll get back to this mower when the parts come in. thanks Garrey
ok i have another question about a different mower, should i ask it here or start over with small engine questions?
ok due to the other mower being down, i decided to change the belts on my wife's little mower. it is a craftsman lawn utility vehicle model 247.270.250. canging the belts went ok but there is a spring that i can't see where it goes.idownloaded the manual and on page 21 it shows the belts and springs etc. fiqure 25. the spring i'm referring to is the one they show coming from what they're calling the deck belt tension pulley arm.it shows it going behind the jack pulley, but judging by it's length i can't determine where it connects. this sprng is different in that it is actually 2 springs connected to one another ( i don't know if someone connected them or if they're made like that. ) so i know one end goes to the tensioner arm, but can't tell where the other end goes.
if your looking at the same manual i'm looking at its page 21 fiqure 25 the # 33 spring isn't the spring in queston here. i know what you mean, getting the belts on this thing was a bear. look at page #21
if you go to page 27 there is another view and then on page 28 is another parts list.it shows 3 springs they are numbered 21,22 and 23 not sure ' but i think it's # 23. # 21 is shown going to a bracket and # 22 is off to the right side of page going to the brake lock bracket.
i think i found it. look at # 45 on page #27 they're calling this idler bracket- variable speed. you can see spring # 23 is attached to that bracket. i put one end of the spring in that spring hole and routed the spring back to what they're calling the " deck belt tension pulley arm " it fit perfect. that arm is also what adjusts the tension on the deck belt. that arm is never called out in the parts list etc. , but it is referred to # 4 under upper deck drive belt, instructions on page # 21. what a pain. if they just called it out, as that "arm" i would have been done hours ago. thanks anyway curtis. i'll be getting back to you on the other mower in about a week.
thanks. get back to you in about a week