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Tim K
Tim K, Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 389
Experience:  Service Manager and technician for small engines and lawn equipment
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I have a riding mower Husqvarna YTH 2148 Its not charging it

Customer Question

I have a riding mower Husqvarna YTH 2148 Its not charging it shows a negative charge ( not going to the positive side ) This is what I have replaced so far all of bottom end blades belts, carb, plugs, ignition coils, battery fuel pump, and filter. Things I have tried already are the valves ( adjustments ) ( lack of power ), carb adjustments, cleaned the flywheel removed any rust. When using the PTO it just drains the battery even faster ( its electric ). Ive checked the 20 amp fuse its good. The only thing that bothers me about the replacement of the coils is I didn't put the ground wires back on I don't have any diodes. Thanks in advance
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Small Engine
Expert:  Tim K replied 4 years ago.

Tim K :

Hello, welcome to Just Answers. My name is Tim, and I would like to help you with your question

Tim K :

What engine do you have in this machine?

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

21 hp vanguard

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

385777 0349-e1

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

model and code

Tim K :

ok no problem.
a few other questions and then I should be able to help you diagnose your problem

Tim K :

do you have an electric meter or access to one, and know how to read one?

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

yes and yes

Tim K :

ok great

Tim K :

now on the coils, did you replace the ignition coils chasing the charging problem?

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

yes

Tim K :

alright. unfortunately on this engine the ignition coils do not have anything to do with the charging.

Tim K :

there should be a square box mounted on the side of the engine

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok no problem this thing will all brand new when I get done

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

yep there is

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

3 wires red and 2 yellow

Tim K :

there is usually two yellow wires going to the box, and a connector there.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

rectifier/regulator 797375 part number

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok

Tim K :

on the vanguard it is usually this part that goes bad on the charging.
you can do two checks to verify if it is this or the stator under the flywheel

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok which one first

Tim K :

first disconnect the red wire, you want to check the side going to the machine for voltage with the key turned on. you should get battery voltage at this wire

Tim K :

this will make sure the charging circuit is intact

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

it does

Tim K :

if that is ok, you next want to check the two

wires for the yellow connector. this one is sometimes tricky to get a good read on with the meter.

Tim K :

you want to check these two wires with a/c, not d/c, with the engine running

Tim K :

at full rpm you should see around 20 volts or more. more is ok, much less or zero is bad

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok but why would it show a negative on the amp meter

Tim K :

the negative from the meter is because it takes voltage to run the fuel shut off solenoid, and also even more voltage with the pto engaged. if the engine is producing no voltage, the meter will see it as a negative draw on the system

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

got it

Tim K :

if you have good voltage from the two yellow wires, (put one meter probe on one wire, and one on the other, not the engine ground), then your problem is the regulator

Tim K :

if you have low or no voltage from the two wires, then the stator is bad, and you could still have a bad regulator but not able to check it without a good source voltage from the stator.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

(if you have good voltage from the two yellow wires, (put one meter probe on one wire, and one on the other, not the engine ground), then your problem is the regulator) explain that one more time please

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

touch both sides of the of the plug ?

Tim K :

on the check for a/c voltage from the two yellow wires, you are checking the ones coming from the engine, and the way to check them is with the meter on both wires. so the red on one of the yellow wires, and the black on the other yellow.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

got it

Tim K :

yes. you are checking for voltage using only those two wires and not the engine ground

just want to make sure i explain it correctly

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

yes me too lol

Tim K :

It is almost always the regulator, but if you dont check you can wind up with a new regulator and still not have the problem fixed

Tim K :

on the coils again, you mentioned a concern about the diodes, are the still there just not plugged in?

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

what about the alternator ?

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

yep they are cut not attached

Tim K :

sorry, the stator i mentioned earlier is another term for the alternator. same thing

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

so there is one then

Tim K :

yes. that is what the two yellow wires are from

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok got it

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

what about the 2 wires off the coils for the shut off

Tim K :

and the black wires from the ignition coils should be the kill wires. most models do have diodes in there, and if it is supposed to have diodes and they are not there, most of the time it will only run on one side.

Tim K :

with the wires hooked up direct i mean

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

it wont even start with them hooked like that to the connector

Tim K :

ok, you can check with your meter and make sure those wires are not grounded with the key on. if that is the case, then a new wiring harness piece with diodes should take care of it.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

the new coils didnt have diodes installed on them so it goes from the coils to a little tab at the side of the engine and with them hooked up it wont start at all

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

I tried that and it back fires at me

Tim K :

the diodes should be in the wiring

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

not on mine

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

not on the coils its just 2 straight pieces of wire

Tim K :

usually looks

something like this here..

Tim K :

link

Tim K :

keeps the coils from cross talking

Tim K :

if that looks like what you tried, then i would check the wires for ground when off of the coils, and the key turned on, and then off

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok that came off the old ones but not on the new ones

Tim K :

most of the engines i see from briggs have something like that on them.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

yes there was one of those but am I suppose to use the old one ?

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

I figured it was more like a fuse and needed to be replaced

Tim K :

ah, yes you re-use that. it is considered a part of the wiring harness.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok then

Tim K :

the coils try and ground each other out if the diodes are not in place. that explains the problem there.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok but not the charging part ?

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

that doesnt have anything to do with that right ?

Tim K :

correct. the ignition coils and the charging are two seperate systems

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

can you just come here and fix it

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ROTFL

Tim K :

lol..

Tim K :

if it ends up being the regulator as i suspect, then its a pretty easy fix :)

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

I hope so Im tired of spending money on this thing

I guess I will have to figure this out tomorrow and let you know where

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

I end up

Tim K :

ok sounds fine. I will check back in tomorrow afternoon.

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok cool thanks for your help with this

Tim K :

you are welcome. let me know what you find, and I will help you as best I can

JACUSTOMER-coedtklm- :

ok