Welcome to JUST ANSWER small engines, let me try to help you !!
Pull spark plug and wiyh plug grounded see if you have spark.
If no spark ,locate the single kill wire that goes to the twin coils and unplug it, then check for spark again.
If you now have spark, check the kill wire and the ignition switch, one could be grounding the coils.
I pulled the new spark plugs out and left the magneto/coil wires attached to the plugs and cranked the engine over several times. I didn't get a spark out of either plug. I could not locate the single kill wire you described between the magneto/coils. I disconnected the two twin magneto/coils, I took them to a local lawn mower repair shop to have them checked. Both of the magneto/coils checked out BAD. I ordered 2 new replacement magneto/coils. It will take several days before the parts come in and I am able to install them. We will then see if the engine starts.
I have another tractor problem that may or may not be related to the magneto/coil problem. The battery keeps running down after a couple of uses and I then have to recharge the battery to start the tractor. This tractor has an electric PTO (power take off) unit that engages the cutting blades and draws heavily upon the battery when activated. Is there an alternator on this engine and could it also be going bad? If there is, where is it located and how do I have it checked ?The battery is relatively new and holds a good charge when It is recharged. Is there anything else that would keep the battery from recharging?
I forgot to give you detail info about this engine. it is a 24 hp Intek V Twin engine
by Briggs and Stratton.
Model : 445677
Code: 050523 YG
I purchased it in 2006.
I am still waiting on the 2 magneto coils to install on my Briggs and Stratton 24 hp twin cylinder engine for the lawn tractor. What is the gap that is needed when reinstalling the magneto coils?
I installed the 2 new magneto coils, but the engine still will not start. I put a small amount of gasoline into the carburator, cranked the engine over, but it does not ignite the gas and ocassionally a load "pop" will occur. Any suggestions?
I pulled the valve covers from each cylinder and found a bent and disconnected push rod in each. Good call. Can I straighten and reuse the push bars or must I purchase new ones?
I have already staightened the one slightly bent aluminium push rod and the one slightly bent steel push rod (one from each cylinder). Since it is a weekend and I might not get the new replacement parts until Monday, is it possible to use the straightened push rods temporailly until then? Also, there is a star adjustment screw at the base of each push rod seat, does this need to be readjusted? If so,, how do I make this adjustment?
Why would the upper and lower push rods be bent to each of the rocker arms ? What does this indicate about the valves themselves? Is there a
potential problem here I should be looking for?
You suggested changing all the aluminium pushrods to steel ones. Is there any reason that Briggs does not use all steel ones to start off with in the first place? The aluminium rod besides having a greater diameter also has a somewhat flatened circled ball at the end. The steel rod does not have this flatened section and is perfectly round at the end. Why the difference?
I have installed new steel pushrods into each valve lifter, the lower valve lifter on the left hand side keeps bending the pushrod. What is the problem?
Success!!! I followed your instructions on how to unstick the non moving valve that was bending all the pushrods. I placed a block of wood against the stuck valve lifter and gave it a swift hit with a hammer. The valve came unstuck. I straightened out the new bent steel pushrod and reused it. I made the adjustments to the valve lifter
clearances and put all the pieces back together. It started right up and smoked for awhile because of the oil I squirted into the cylinder to free up the stuck valve. All seems to be working well at this time. Thank you for your help.