I have snapper rear engine rider M250819BE I just got without an engine I took a briggs and stratton 12 hp engine that was fully operational off of an older RER, and have put on the M250819BE. I am not able to get this engine to start, I believe I have hooked all wires up correctly. I have checked wiring schematics for the newer model and connected to the solenoid, magento shorting block, and ground. Any tips??
hi let me see if i can help,is the engine turning over just want start are is it doing nothing at all
sorry i didnt asked is the electric start are recoil?
It is electric start, and it does nothing at all.
ok have you check the fuse, it should be around were your solenoid is, also compare the two starter switches and make sure they are the same if not then this will cause this problem,even though they look the same and have the same number of connection some are different, if you turn the switch around where the plug connects you will see letters like (s- starter) ( b-battery) ect.
also with the switch on you can try crossing a screwdriver a cross the solenoids main terminals and see if the engine will turn over, let me know and we can go from there
Fuse is good, the solenoids are same, and yes it turns over when crossed with screwdriver.
ok i was talking about your starter switch being the same, do you happen to have a volt meter
Yes I do have a volt meter.
ok you may need help to do this maybe not, turn your key to start and check to see if you have 12 volts going to the solenoid and check the other side to see if you have 12 volts coming out
also if your starter switches are the same and you know that one of them for sure is good use that way ti eliminate the switch being the problem
What do you mean both sides of the solenoid, I check the posts in starting postion and have 12.5 volts. Is the starter switch in the column under the key, sorry for my ignorance.
My original RER has the starter key in a housing i will need to remove to check.
your starter switch is what the key goes into.(ignition switch) sorry some call it one are the other,ok yes what i meant on the solenoid is the two post that the wire from the battery hooks to and the one that the wire going to the starter, with the switch turned to start you should have 12 volts on each post,
the reason i asked these questions, is if you can cross the solenoid and engine turns over, the the cause would be 1. bad are wrong ignition switch 2. bad safety switch 3. bad solenoid. sorry to go through all of this but electrical problems sometimes take time to narrow down
I removed both starters to exam, how do i tell if different
new switch has letters of S & B, old B & M
after further dirt removal they appear to have the same markings
ok when looking at the switches they will all have the same markings, but are they in the same place on the switches, hold the switches were they look the same now make sure were the s-is that they are in the same place on both switches, for exsample if the top connector has a s on one switch does the top connector on the other switch have an s also, if the are in different places on the switches then the switches are different and want work.the markings on both switches have to be just alike,
they are identical
ok good,install the one that you know was working, on the mower you removed the engine from and try if still no go we will know that the switch is good then this will narrow it down to safety switch are a solenoid
ok have done this, how do we check safety switch, i already changed to solednoid from old tractor.
ok you will have to look on your wiring schematics to find all of the safety switches, some have one ,some have two and some have three, checkthe seat there may be one there, there may be one on the clutch/brake and one were you engage the blades, most of these are button type were when the button is in then it lets current go through the switch, to check with a volt meter you will need to pull the plug that connects to the switch off a little but not all the way,it still has to make connection, like if you are checking the one were you engage the blades,with the blades disengaged you should only have 12v on one side of the plug when you engage the blades you should have 12v on both the wires that plug into the switch showing that the current is going through the switch if not switch is bad you will need the ignition key on to do this
I have worked on small engines for over 30 years,and i have had my on shop for the last 10 years.