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James W
James W, Small Engine Troubleshooting Expert
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 3700
Experience:  7 years as Mechanic & Parts Manager for Brother who has Owned Lawn & Garden Repair shop for 35 years
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23 horse kohler in a cub cadet LT1050 mower dies after about

Customer Question

23 horse kohler in a cub cadet LT1050 mower dies after about 30 min of operation. blows black smoke and dies. Then won't start unless you let sit for 3-4 hours
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Small Engine
Expert:  Walt-mod replied 2 years ago.

Hi,

 

I'm a moderator for this topic and I wonder whether you're still waiting for an answer. If you are, please let me know and I will do my best to find an Professional to assist you right away. If not, feel free to let me know and I will cancel this question for you. Thank you!

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
still waiting
Expert:  Walt-mod replied 2 years ago.
Sometimes, finding the right Professional can take a little longer than expected and we thank you greatly for your understanding. We'll be in touch again shortly.
Expert:  James W replied 2 years ago.

Greetings,

My name isXXXXX and I am here to help the best I can. My goal is 100% satisfaction. Let's get started.

 

Sorry for the delay..

 

I am popping in quick so you will not give up on us

 

I have a test that I would like you to try Cold, then again when it is HOT.

 

There are others, but, lets try this now to start.

 

It sounds to me like a twin cylinder engine that is only running on once cylinder.

 

Start the engine and then, with a good set of insulated piers, pull one of the spark plug wires off and note how the engine runs.

 

If the engine dies, then you know that the other cylinder is not working.

 

If the engine runs the same, then the cylinder that you removed the plug wire from is not working.

 

If the engine stays running, but runs much worse than it did, then both cylinders are working.

 

 

What could cause one cylinder not to work?

 

1. Bad ignition coil

 

2. Valve rocker arm came loose. or bad valve.

 

3. Broken connecting rod on that side,.

 

4. BAd spark plug on that side.

 

5 Blown head gasket on that side.

 

Good luck.

 

If this is not the problem, contact me and we will look at this again.

 

 

If you don't feel comfortable with this kind of repair I would suggest sending it to a reputable shop.

 

Feel free to contact me here at this question anytime ...even after you hit the "ACCEPT" button ...and I will try to help further.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
both cylinders working, have noticed now I have gas in the crankcase.
Expert:  James W replied 2 years ago.
The gas in the crankcase is a result of the fact that the needle and the seat in the carburetor are / were not mating correctly and the flow of gas is not being shut off.

This allows the gas to drain into the cylinder and then into the crank case.

The oil / Gas mix is thinner and it then blows past the rings and the valves and into the cylinder where it burns and smokes a weird color.

White normally is oil smoke.
Black is normally incomplete combustion of gas.

You will get a sort of mix of the two colors.

The darker the smoke, the worse the leak of gas into the cylinder you have. It is likely a dark gray at times.

You need to clean and overhaul the carburetor using a complete carb kit.

Expert:  James W replied 2 years ago.

Most likely you have a fuel delivery or fuel quality problem.

As engines sit or get older, fuel that is left in the carburetor can turn to gum and varnish and cause this and other problems.

Also, any gasoline that was left in a gas can for a period of more than 30 days must be discarded because it also has begun to turn to varnish.

Today's gasolines contain MTBE and alcohol. (Ethanol) They turn to "Junk and garbage" very quickly. Alcohol absorbs water. And they call it "Oxygenated fuels! It is the oxygen (and the water) that breaks down the organic compounds in the fuel and turns the gas to "Garbage" (Gum and varnish) The fuels we had just a few years ago had no alcohol in it and would store for longer periods of time before going stale.

Fuel stabilizers do almost nothing to prevent the fuel from going bad with the changes in today's fuels. The whole point of a fuel stabilizer is to form an oily film on the surface of stored gasoline whether in the tank or in a gas can. The idea was to keep oxygen away from the gasoline to prevent breakdown. Since the fuel is already oxygenated, the fuel stabilizer concept is null and void. These fuels start to degrade immediately upon the addition of the ethanol.

Do not buy gas from the "Discount" Stations. The discount stations get a reduced price on gas because they may be buying fuel that is nearly 30 days old already. You may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump when buying from a discount station. Purchase your fuel from the well-known stations such as Shell, BP, Sonoco, Phillips 66 etc.

More than 70% of all of our repairs in our small engine repair business are due to these same issues. You most likely have dirt, gum, varnish...etc in your carburetor plugging up the small passageways and jets in the carburetor.

The carburetor will need to be cleaned and overhauled as well as the rest of the fuel system.

 

  • If you plan to do the work yourself, take pictures with your digital camera or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical.
  • Remove the carburetor from the engine.
  • Remove all of the non-metallic parts since the carburetor cleaner will cause them to be disfigured decompose and plug the carburetor as time goes on.
  • Clean all parts with carburetor cleaner. You will want to SOAK the non metallic parts in a cleaner bath.
  • Blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air.
  • Use a tiny stiff wire such as is found on the twist tie on a loaf of bread or on a garbage bag to open all tiny passageways found in the carburetor such as in the screw, nut, or jet holding the bowl of the carburetor on (if it has a bowl). Make sure to look for tiny holes in the bottom and side threads of the bowl nut or nozzle a make sure they are clear with the wire.
  • Wash the carburetor cleaner off of the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water.
  • Dry all carburetor parts by blowing it off with compressed air.
  • Make sure that all the passageways are blown dry before reassembling (you do not want water back in the carburetor).
  • Reassemble the carburetor using a NEW carburetor rebuild kit.
  • NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO REASSEMBLE WITHOUT USING A COMPLETE CARBURETOR KIT! You will just end up having to do the job again.
  • Find the Model, type and serial or code numbers off of the engine and take them to your local dealer to get the carburetor repair kit.
  • ALWAYS clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel line when doing this repair or you may have to do it all over again. The inside of the fuel line disintegrates over time and these small pieces of rubber will plug up the carburetor too. Dirt and water from a dirty fuel tank will also plug up the carburetor. If this happens, you will be starting over again from the top.

In an Emergency such as a blizzard where you cannot get out to buy a carburetor kit until the plows come through, or during an emergency power outage and you need a generator running even if it runs poorly, you might try the following if your carburetor is the type that has a bowl. Sometimes this procedure works:

While the carburetor is still mounted to the engine:

  • Pinch the fuel line with a pair of vice grips to stop the fuel from going to the carburetor.
  • Remove the bowl nut (or nozzle from the bottom of the carburetor and let the fuel drain from the bowl.
  • Carefully remove the bowl from the carburetor without letting the needle and seat and float fall out of position (if it does, no big deal, but you will have to reassemble it, which is harder with the carburetor on the unit).
  • Dump all of the Gunk out of the bowl and put the bowl back into position.
  • Use a tiny stiff wire such as is found on the twist tie on a loaf of bread or on a garbage bag to open all tiny holes in the screw, bowl nut, or nozzle that was holding the bowl of the carburetor on (if it has a bowl). Make sure to look for tiny holes in the bottom and side threads of the bowl nut or nozzle a make sure they are clear with the wire.
  • Reassemble and see if you got lucky.

You may be able to finish the job at hand then clean and overhaul the carburetor correctly when you have more time and a new carburetor overhaul kit.

The nut that holds on the carburetor bowl has several small holes in it. Some are on the sides and one may be in the end. In order to completely clean the carburetor correctly, you Must clean these holes with a tag wire or a jet drill. (If a jet drill is used, DO NOT use a drill that is bigger than the hole or the engine will run too rich.)

 

 

 

View Full Image

 

If you don't feel comfortable with these kinds of repairs, or if the carburetor still doesn't work correctly after your attempt, I would suggest sending it to a profession repair shop with a reputation for having friendly, knowledgeable, experienced service technicians. It would be best to take it to someone who has an "Ultra-sonic" cleaning machine. This machine uses a very mild carburetor cleaner in concert with ultrasonic vibrations to get the very small passageways clean. This method is very effective even when traditional methods fail.

Here is where you can get an inexpensive "Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine"

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=ultrasonic+cleaner

There is a New Product that you can try which is guaranteed to work or your money back (per the manufacturer).

http://www.b3cfuelsolutions.com/html/mib.html

It is designed to help clean the carburetor without damaging the diaphragms and rubber parts like regular carburetor cleaner. Click on this site and it will tell you all about it. http://www.b3cfuelsolutions.com/html/mib.html

The mechanic in a bottle is NOT a conventional carburetor cleaner.

It actually breaks down the varnish into it molecular components and it completely dissolves. It DOE NOT clog up the jets as conventional carburetor cleaners do. Conventional carb cleaners just loosen the varnish and the varnish particles will go into the jets and filters and clog them up.... usually causing much more problems that was originally there. The conventional carb cleaners also will loosen the "GUMK" that has formed in the gas tanks and cause all of that gunk to go through the carburetor as well.

 

The Mechanic in a BOTTLE is a completely revolutionary product that will in many cases alleviate the need to tear the carburetor down and rebuilt it..... unless there is mechanical wear and tear that would require that parts be replaced.

 

In addition, the special formula actually is designed to soften and restore the rubber parts in the carburetor such as the needle and seats and gaskets.

 

Mechanic in a bottle is NOT a cure-all but it can help customer get going in many cases without them having to tear the carburetor apart. If the customer is NOT mechanically inclined, it might save them a trip to the repair shop.

 

Yes I was very skeptical about this product when I first was introduced to it, but the Distributor demonstrated it and we have tried it on many occasions with terrific results.

Otherwise you will have to clean and rebuild the carburetor.

Please feel free to ask follow-up questions so that we can always arrive at the correct solution. We want you to be 100% satisfied.

 

. The mechanic in a bottle will help clean a carburetor. But it will not help with a stick open float.

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