How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Rick Your Own Question
Rick, Factory Authorized Trainer
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 8057
Experience:  Outdoor Power Equipment technical trainer since 1990, covering eight states.
Type Your Small Engine Question Here...
Rick is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

my 2 stroke blower only runs on idle or full choke. On full

Resolved Question:

my 2 stroke blower only runs on idle or full choke. On full choke it runs about 75% of full throttle. As soon as I full the trigger, it cuts off. Already replaced gas/oil with new mixture containing stabil and cleaned the carberater. Didnt help
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Small Engine
Expert:  Rick replied 4 years ago.
Hello, and thank you for choosing JustAnswer. I'll be helping you today and am committed to providing clear and concise answers to your question.

Ho old is your blower?

Was it left with fuel in it by any chance?

Are the muffler and exhuast port clean of carbon build-up?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Approx 4 years old.


Was not left with fuel for any extended period of time without being run. Used about once a week. Ran SeaFoam in mixture as well about 10 times and saw no real difference.


Muffler and Exhaust Port appear to be completely clean.


Fooled around little with the screw that adjusts the idle. No change.

Expert:  Rick replied 4 years ago.
Most likely a plugged carburetor or weakened diaphragms on the pump and metering side. That's the usually culprit for the symptom you describe, and after 4 years, it due for a carb re-build or replacement. But do you have a compression gauge to take a cylinder reading to be sure? You should have at least 100 psi.

As far as the carb goes, I like to start by mentioning fuel. I recommend using fuel no older than three weeks unless you are mixing in a good quality fuel stabilizer. Likely 70% of the problems like this we see are fuel or carburetor related. Today's fuels with ethanol are nowhere as stable as the fuels we had a few years ago. I recommend against purchasing fuel from some of the smaller stores that sell fuel for less than the well-known stations such as Chevron, Shell, etc. These smaller companies get a price break on fuel from the distributors because they are buying fuel that is near the 30-day mark. Distributors cannot sell the fuel past that age so they offer a discount to these buyers. Result is that you may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump.

Because of the fuel situation we see a lot of carburetor problems. If you don't feel comfortable with this kind of repair I would suggest sending it to a reputable shop. If you do the work yourself, take pictures or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical. Disassemble and clean every part with carburetor cleaner and blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air or use soft tag wire to make sure they're not blocked, them blow through them. Do not get carburetor cleaner on the non-metallic parts since it will cause them to decompose and further plug the carburetor. Remove the carb cleaner from the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water. Dry them thoroughly before reassembling using your pictures or drawings as a guide.

Before you put the carburetor back on, flush the fuel tank and replace the fuel lines and filter so you aren't plugging up your clean carburetor with residue from old fuel.

Hope this info helps!

Rick and 2 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you