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What are the model and serial numbers of the genset itself?
What do you mean by 'how much wire comes out of the stator' - are you wanting to know how many feet of wire are in the windings?
The leads are usually only about a foot long. They are only long enough to attach to their connection points.
With the model and serial number, I can get you a schematic if you want it.
There are 5 different model numbers that carry the L4002 label - and 4 different schematics.
No problem at all, my friend.
That will take me a long time to do, but if we have to, I can.
See if you can get the numbers, though.
It will take me a bit.
This isn't the best copy in the world, but it's the best I could do.
Click here to download it.
OK, talk to you then......
What a coincidence - the schematic I sent you was for the 8915-3 and 8915-4.
I am not sure what you mean - could you please explain that a little better?
There is no voltage that comes out of the rotor (armature), the voltage comes out of the stator. You should get 120 volts from each leg.
I did manage to get a little better copy of the schematic - not a whole let better, but some.
Click here to download.
I am having trouble understanding exactly what you are wanting.
Perhaps if you tell me exactly what is going on with your genset, I may be able to help you better.
And please use some punctuation and sentence breaks - the run on sentences are nearly impossible to decipher.
I see now.
There are only 3 windings in the stator - 2 power windings, and one exciter winding.
The exciter winding will be the small red and blue wire - both go to the bridge rectifier.
The 2 power windings are actually connected internally, so there are only 3 power leads coming out of the stator - gray, and the larger red and blue.
The red is the neutral, and it will go to the neutral side of the receptacles. The wiring diagram shows it going to the 120V/30A receptacle, but the wiring schematic shows it going to the 120/240 volt receptacle. I believe it should go to the 120V/30A first - but as long as the neutral sides of all receptacles are tied together, it will work.
The gray wire is the 30A side of the stator, and it will go to the 30A circuit breaker.
The blue wire is the 20A side of the stator, and it will go to the 20A circuit breaker.
I have not idea how Briggs connected them - they may be copperwelded, or they may be mechanically spliced.
But it is not anything you would be able to get to.
Sorry - I got an emergency call from work and had to go in.
The center tap is the red - it is always a neutral.
I have just gone over everything you have posted, and I am getting the idea that you are trying to rewind the stator.
If this is so, I highly recommend that you not try it - that is something that is best left to the professionals.
There is much more to winding a stator than simply wrapping some wire on it.
The correct size, type and amount of wire, each winding must be wrapped in the proper direction around each laminate, each winding must be wound in proper direction around the stator - and much more.
To not get it perfectly correct could easily lead to severe injury, or worse.
If you rewind motors for a living, it should be no problem for you.
I have no schematic for the rectifier - it is a sealed unit.
Not a substitute, but there is an aftermarket board available.
Here is the link to it:
Disregard that last post - I accidentally copied the wrong link.
Here is the correct link:
No, but I posted the link to where you can order one online.
I find it hard to believe that you can not get one locally - any electronic shop will carry them.
If you rebuild motors, you should have a couple dozen laying around.
Is it installed?
2 of the terminals on the rectifier are marked "AC". The red and blue stator wires will go here. It does not matter which one goes where.
The "+" terminal will go to the positive brush, which is the outer brush, and should be marked wire #4.
The other terminal will go to the negative brush.
Flash the field.
I thought you said you rewind electric motors?
1. Remove the spark plug wire - you do not want the engine to start while doing this.
2. Obtain an old extension cord that you can cut one end off, or an old power cord from an appliance (you will need the male end left on the cord).
3. Install a 5A fuse into both wires.
4. Note how on the receptacle, one slot is longer than the other. This longer slot is the negative slot. It is critical that you get it hooked up correctly.
5. Determine which wire of the cord will go to the negative slot.
6. Connect the negative wire to the negative terminal of a 12V battery.
7. Connect the positive wire to the positive terminal of the battery.
8. Plug the cord into the receptacle and pull the starter cord 6-8 times.
9. Immediately unplug the cord. DO NOT LEAVE THE CORD PLUGGED IN FOR MORE THAN 6 OR 8 SECONDS.
10. Disconnect the wires from the battery.
11. Reconnect the spark plug wire and see if the set is now producing electricity.