I would get a new spark plug and install if it has not been changed in the last year. While you have the plug out you may want to check for spark to make sure it is firing.
If the plug does not fix the problem it may not be getting fuel through the carb and will need torn down and cleaned. The carb can get dirt or get gummed up and will not let fuel flow through like it should.
Plug is new and I just cleaned out the carb with Gum Cutter, and blew out all the passages. ... I'm a mechanic by trade also, but on cars
Sometimes the 'little' engines have their own quricks.
Yep! .. to both questions.
and yes after I let it 'rest' a bit. a shot of Gum Cutter got it to run again.
I'm on line at XXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX
I think you still have a fuel problem. Did you get the main jet in the carb cleaned out good? Needle and seat good? Is the float sitting level with carb housing?
I think so, like I said ... i took it to work took it apart
Cleaned out all passages with cutter, let dry & blew out with air
float should be ok, did the drill trick for setting it.
I agree it still sounds like a fuel problem
Any better tips on cleaning out the main jet?
OK, I have seen enough of this.
Here is the detailed answer with video to help you on this carburetor.
Here is the parts list for your Engine. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-143044500/0247/1503500?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=143044500
Here is the parts list on your carburetor: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-143044500/0247/1503500/P0212253/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=143044500
Click on the parts list of the carburetor to see the bowl nut and other parts.
The problem is most likely in the carburetor. There are some small passages that are restricted or plugged.
Here might be what I call an emergency fix, but I want you to still read the rest of the answer as this may be just a temporary if it works.
The nut that holds on the carburetor bowl has several small holes in it. Some are on the sides and one may be in the end. In order to completely clean the carburetor correctly, you MUST clean these holes with a tag wire or a jet drill. (If a jet drill is used, DO NOT use a drill that is bigger than the hole or the engine will run too rich.) If the Picture does not show up, click on the Blue Text and you will see the picture. There is ONLY 1 picture. The picture may not look exactly like yours but it should be very similar....even if you have an adjustable jet screw...but the tiny holes may be on the sides of the jet instead of the middle.
Here is a video that shows you how to do it.
Here is my comprehensive carburetor and fuel answer that may give you some ideas.
As engines sit or get older, fuel that is left in the carburetor can turn to gum and varnish and cause this and other problems. Also, any gasoline that was left in a gas can for a period of more than 30 days must be discarded because it also has begun to turn to varnish.
Today's gasoline's contain MTBE and alcohol. (Ethanol) They turn to "Junk and garbage" very quickly. Alcohol is partially water (H2O). And they call it "Oxygenated fuels! It is the oxygen that breaks down the organic compounds in the fuel and turns the gas to "Garbage" (Gum and varnish) The fuels we had just a few years ago had no alcohol in it and would store for longer periods of time before going stale... and fuel stabilizers do almost nothing to prevent the fuel from going bad with the changes in today's fuels.
Do not buy gas from the "Discount" Stations. The discount stations get a reduced price on gas because they may be buying fuel that is nearly 30 days old already. You may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump when buying from a discount station. Purchase your fuel from the well-known stations such as Shell, BP, Sonoco, Phillips 66 etc.
More than 70% of all of our repairs in our lawn mower business are due to this same issue. You most likely have dirt, gum, varnish...etc in your carburetor plugging up the small passageways and jets in the carburetor.
The carburetor must be removed from the engine. Clean all parts with carburetor cleaner and blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air. Remove all of the non-metallic parts since the carburetor cleaner will cause them to be disfigured decompose and plug the carburetor as time goes on.
Wash the carburetor cleaner off of the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water. Dry them by blowing it off with compressed air. Make sure that all the passageways are blown dry before reassembling.
Reassemble using a NEW carburetor rebuild kit.
DO NOT TRY TO REASSEMBLE WITHOUT USING A COMPLTE CARBURETOR KIT! You will just end up having to do the job again.
ALWAYS clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel line when doing this repair or you may have to do it all over again. The inside of the fuel line disintegrates over time and these small pieces of rubber will plug up the carburetor too. Dirt and water from a dirty fuel tank will also plug up the carburetor. Find the Model, type and serial or code numbers off of the engine and take them to your local dealer to get the carburetor repair kit.
If you do the work yourself, take pictures or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical.
If the carburetor still doesn't work correctly, you may have to take it to someone who has an "Ultra-sonic" cleaning machine. This machine uses carb cleaner and ultrasonic vibrations to get the very small passageways clean when traditional methods fail.
Here is where you can get an inexpensive "Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine"
If you don't feel comfortable with this kind of repair I would suggest sending it to a reputable shop.
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Yep, agree with jet drill
... I learn that back when was working on Quads & Holleys
But why did it run, stop & restart several times, then when I stopped it, to clean out the grass
would it not restart and after sitting/resting a bit, with a shot shot of gum cutter will it restart?
It ran and stopped and ran again as you said because some if the dirt kept moving around in the jets. You also may need to check the float level. Make sure that you use a COMPLETE carburetor repair kit.
Try the info that I sent....even the ultrasonic cleaning machine if you need to and see what happens.
in addition, there is a product called Mechanic in a Bottle that will help.
Here is some infromation in MIC.
Most likely the problem you have is that the carburetor is restricted or plugged because of fuel that was left in the the carburetor while it was stored. Fuel CANNOT be used if it is over 30 days old.
In many cases the carburetor should be removed and cleaned and rebuilt with anew carburetor repair kit.
Even if an engine is run dry, there will still be 10 to 12 drops of fuel left in the carburetor. This is what turns to gum and varnish and dirt and restricts the passages in the carburetor. Also keep in mind hat even if this is a BRAND NEW unit, you can still have this same carburetor problem. This is because of the fuel that the factory puts into it when thy are testing it. They then run it dry before shipping it. But there is still some fuel in the carburetor.
I do have a possible Quick fix for you, but you must use what I tell you.
DO NOT USE regular CARBURETOR CLEANER such as GUMOUT or something similar. These will ruin the rubber parts of the carburetor.
HEre is the possible Quick fix.:
There is one good thing you can try. It is called "Mechanic in a bottle". It is usually available at WALMART or many autoparts stores. Even some Mower repair shops. We carny it at my store.
It is designed to help clean the carburetor without damaging the diaphrams and rubber parts like regular carburetor cleaner. Click on this site and it will tell you all about it.
This helps sometimes, but other times it does not.and the only solution is to to clean and rebuild the carburetor.
It is available t Home Depot and good mower shops.
It is also available at Amazon.com
The mechanic in a bottle is NOT a conventional carburetor cleaner.
It actually breaks down the varnish into it molecular components and it completely dissolves. It DOE NOT clog up the jets as conventional carburetor cleaners do. Conventional carb cleaners just loosen the varnish and the varnish particles will go into the jets and filters and clog them up.... usually causing much more problems that was originally there. The conventional carb cleaners also will loosen the "GUMK" that has formed in the gas tanks and cause all of that gunk to go through the carburetor as well.
The Mechanic in a BOTTLE is a completely revolutionary product that will in many case alleviate the need to tear the carburetor down and rebuilt it..... unless there is mechanical wear and tear that would require that parts be replaced.
In addition, the special formula actually is designed to soften and restore the rubber parts in the carburetor such as the needle and seats and gaskets.
Mechanic in a bottle is NOT a cure-all but it can help customer get going in many cases without them having to tear the carburetor apart. If the customer is NOT mechanically inclined, it might save them a trip to the repair shop.
Yes I was very skeptical about this product when I first was introduced to it, but the Distributor demonstrated it and we have tried it on many occasions with terrific results.
Varnished carburetor? Fuel gone bad? Water in the tank & carburetor
causing corrosion from ethanol? "FIX THE UNFIXABLE" Mechanic In A
Bottle removes all varnish in the fuel system without having to remove
the carburetor from the machine. Add to your gasoline and you will be
able to clean varnish and carbon.
together since the fuel has deteriorated. An octane booster is added to
replace the lost octane in the decayed fuel. We do not use any metals in
our formula to increase the octane.
including the combustion chamber, piston(s), rings and valves.
rejuvenate and protect the rubber gaskets and seals that may have been
dried out from ethanol. After the fuel is burned in the combustion
chamber, a synthetic lubricant remains to lubricate the entire upper
combustion chamber, such as piston rings and valves.
Poor Running Engine:
No detrimental effects if overdosed.
Mix 2 ounces of Mechanic In A Bottle (MIB) to1 gallon of fresh gasoline.
Start engine and run for at least 10 minutes. Let engine stand for at least
8 hours before restarting. Continue use of mixed MIB fuel until gone. Use
Ethanol Shield all the time to prevent fuel related problems.
Non Running Engine:
Add 4 ounces of Mechanic In A Bottle (MIB) into an empty fuel tank and
prime the MIB through the fuel system into the carburetor. Wait at least 8
hours before draining contaminated MIB from the fuel system and
adding fresh fuel mixed 2 ounces MIB to 1 gallon of fresh gasoline.
Severely contaminated fuel systems let stand overnight or repeat if
Mix 1 ounce of MIB to 5 gallons of gasoline.
This is a fuel additive not a replacement for 2 cycle oil.
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