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James W
James W, Small Engine Troubleshooting Expert
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 3708
Experience:  7 years as Mechanic & Parts Manager for Brother who has Owned Lawn & Garden Repair shop for 35 years
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my leaf blower starts but will not stay cranked. On for only

Customer Question

my leaf blower starts but will not stay cranked. On for only a few seconds.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Small Engine
Expert:  James W replied 5 years ago.

James W :

Greetings, My name isXXXXX and I am here to help the best I can. My goal is 100% satisfaction. Let's get started.

James W :

You are describing classic carburetor problems


ok. wats next

James W :

I expect you have either a fuel Quality or fuel delivery problem.


But first, we need to know it has spark.


After trying to start the unit one more time,

Take the spark plug out, reattach the plug to wire to it and ground it to a head bolt. (When you had it out, was it wet or dry)?

If it is dry, we are 99% sure we are on the right track, but we still need to know if you have spark.


Turn unit on and either pull rope or engage electric starter. Look for a bright blue spark and see if you hear it. If it has spark, put a teaspoon of gasoline in the plug hole and reinstall the spark plug.

If the unit tries to start, but only runs until the gas you put in is gone then we need to look at cleaning the carburetor (especially if the plug was dry when you took it out).


You may get lucky and it may start and run. If so, let it. It may "clear its throat" or you may get some work done right now.


Most likely you have a fuel delivery or fuel quality problem.


As engines sit or get older, fuel that is left in the carburetor can turn to gum and varnish and cause this and other problems.

Also, any gasoline that was left in a gas can for a period of more than 30 days must be discarded because it also has begun to turn to varnish.


Today's gasolines contain MTBE and alcohol. (Ethanol) They turn to "Junk and garbage" very quickly. Alcohol absorbs water. And they call it "Oxygenated fuels! It is the oxygen (and the water) that breaks down the organic compounds in the fuel and turns the gas to "Garbage" (Gum and varnish) The fuels we had just a few years ago had no alcohol in it and would store for longer periods of time before going stale.

Fuel stabilizers do almost nothing to prevent the fuel from going bad with the changes in today's fuels. The whole point of a fuel stabilizer is to form an oily film on the surface of stored gasoline whether in the tank or in a gas can. The idea was to keep oxygen away from the gasoline to prevent breakdown. Since the fuel is already oxygenated, the fuel stabilizer concept is null and void. These fuels start to degrade immediately upon the addition of the ethanol.


Do not buy gas from the "Discount" Stations. The discount stations get a reduced price on gas because they may be buying fuel that is nearly 30 days old already. You may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump when buying from a discount station. Purchase your fuel from the well-known stations such as Shell, BP, Sonoco, Phillips 66 etc.

More than 70% of all of our repairs in our small engine repair business are due to these same issues. You most likely have dirt, gum, varnish...etc in your carburetor plugging up the small passageways and jets in the carburetor.


The carburetor will need to be cleaned and overhauled as well as the rest of the fuel system.


  • If you plan to do the work yourself, take pictures with your digital camera or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical.

  • Remove the carburetor from the engine.

  • Remove all of the non-metallic parts since the carburetor cleaner will cause them to be disfigured decompose and plug the carburetor as time goes on.

  • Clean all parts with carburetor cleaner.

  • Blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air.

  • Use a tiny stiff piece of fishing line to open all tiny passageways found in the carburetor.

  • Wash the carburetor cleaner off of the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water.

  • Dry all carburetor parts by blowing it off with compressed air.

  • Make sure that all the passageways are blown dry before reassembling (you do not want water back in the carburetor).

  • Reassemble the carburetor using a NEW carburetor rebuild kit.

  • NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO REASSEMBLE WITHOUT USING A COMPLETE CARBURETOR KIT! You will just end up having to do the job again.

  • Find the Model, type and serial or code numbers off of the engine and take them to your local dealer to get the carburetor repair kit.

  • ALWAYS clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel line when doing this repair or you may have to do it all over again. The inside of the fuel line disintegrates over time and these small pieces of rubber will plug up the carburetor too. Dirt and water from a dirty fuel tank will also plug up the carburetor. If this happens, you will be starting over again from the top.

In an Emergency such as a blizzard where you cannot get out to buy a carburetor kit until the plows come through, or during an emergency power outage and you need a generator running even if it runs poorly, you might try the following if your carburetor is the type that has a bowl. Sometimes this procedure works:

While the carburetor is still mounted to the engine:

  • Pinch the fuel line with a pair of vice grips to stop the fuel from going to the carburetor.

  • Remove the bowl nut (or nozzle from the bottom of the carburetor and let the fuel drain from the bowl.

  • Carefully remove the bowl from the carburetor without letting the needle and seat and float fall out of position (if it does, no big deal, but you will have to reassemble it, which is harder with the carburetor on the unit).

  • Dump all of the Gunk out of the bowl and put the bowl back into position.

  • Use a tiny stiff wire such as is found on the twist tie on a loaf of bread or on a garbage bag to open all tiny holes in the screw, bowl nut, or nozzle that was holding the bowl of the carburetor on (if it has a bowl). Make sure to look for tiny holes in the bottom and side threads of the bowl nut or nozzle a make sure they are clear with the wire.

  • Reassemble and see if you got lucky.

You may be able to finish the job at hand then clean and overhaul the carburetor correctly when you have more time and a new carburetor overhaul kit.


If you don't feel comfortable with these kinds of repairs, or if the carburetor still doesn't work correctly after your attempt, I would suggest sending it to a profession repair shop with a reputation for having friendly, knowledgeable, experienced service technicians. It would be best to take it to someone who has an "Ultra-sonic" cleaning machine. This machine uses a very mild carburetor cleaner in concert with ultrasonic vibrations to get the very small passageways clean. This method is very effective even when traditional methods fail.

Please feel free to ask follow-up questions so that we can always arrive at the correct solution. We want you to be 100% satisfied.


Please click "ACCEPT" or I won't get paid.
You may also consider sending a bonus if I have been particularly helpful.

Please leave positive feedback, because this is how I'm rated. Thanks

James W :

There is a new product that MAY help called mechanic in a bottle

James W :

It si designed to help clean the carburetor without damaging the diaphrams and rubber parts like regular carburetor cleaner. Click on this site and it will tell you all about it.

Otherwise you will have to clean and rebuild the carburetor.

James W :

The mechanic in a bottle is NOT a conventional carburetor cleaner.

It actually breaks down the varnish into it molecular components and it completely dissolves. It DOE NOT clog up the jets as conventional carburetor cleaners do. Conventional carb cleaners just loosen the varnish and the varnish particles will go into the jets and filters and clog them up.... usually causing much more problems that was originally there. The conventional carb cleaners also will loosen the "GUMK" that has formed in the gas tanks and cause all of that gunk to go through the carburetor as well.


The Mechanic in a BOTTLE is a completely revolutionary product that will in many case alleviate the need to tear the carburetor down and rebuilt it..... unless there is mechanical wear and tear that would require that parts be replaced.


In addition, the special formula actually is designed to soften and restor the rubber parts in the carburetor such as the needle and seats and gaskets.


Mechanic in a bottle is NOT a cure-all but it can help customer get going in many cases without them having to tear the carburetor apart. If the customer is NOT mechanically inclined, it might save them a trip to the repair shop.


Yes I was very skeptical about this product when I first was introduced to it, but the Distributor demonstrated it and we have tried it on many occasions with terrific results.


it now will only run on 1/2 choke. When I turn it to run it cuts off.

James W :

I am sorry was multi tasking

James W :

an giving you time to read

James W :

I 100% expected that it would run only on 1/2 choke

James W :

it is not getting enough gas


where do I get the mechanic in a bottle at? I'm in North Carolina

James W :

check also to make sure the fuel filter in the tank is new and not clogged

James W :

it is so new, it may not be everywhere yet

James W :

mail order yes

James W :

also check to make sure primer bulb is not cracked

James W :

and fuel lines do not have tiny cracks or slits


i just changed the primer button with a new one. It was cracked.

James W :

better to clean arb and use carb kit, but if you can find it I would try it

James W :

if the primer bulb was cracked it was probably because of old gas and the carb is varnished up

James W :

I know you can get mechanic in a bottle from


so I really need to clean the carb

James W :

Really yes.


I haven't done it before but I nwill try to take it apart

James W :

if you screw it up the carb can be repalced for about $50 or so

James W :

what brand is the leaf blower

and how old is it


James W :

also, please do not forget to hit ACCEPT before you leave or I do not get paid


its about i year old and says bweedeater b25cc gas no other name on it. I got it from lowesa or home depot


i will hit accept

James W :

I will still be available

James W :

for followups via email as well


how do I get back to you?

James W :

You need to decide if this is worth fixing for you


ok its just a year old

James W :

just come back to this same location


ok thanks

James W and 5 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
Expert:  James W replied 5 years ago.


Mechanic in a bottle just signed nationwide contracts with Walmart and Home Depot.. You should be able to buy it there.


I am changing my answer to say..


Try this first, make sure to let it sit for at least 8 to 24 hours


Empty the tank 100% first

then put the whole tiny bottle in

then pretend to try to start it and run it for about 30 pulls on full choke

if it starts and runs (it should not) keep it running for 60 seconds

then turn it off and let it SOAK


then come back to it and put a cup of gas in the tank


This time start it and keep it running as long as you can


it will either start running smoother or not.


If after 2 minutes of keeping it running, if there is not improvement, stop it and let it sit for another 8 to 12 hours.. If there is improvement Keep it running and do work with it. It should get better.


If it did not improve after 2 mins, stop it and let it sit for 8 to 12 hours like I said above.


then try again


This time keep it running as long as you can..


Even using it to blow with..


Lastly, if this did not fix it, then fill the tank with gas, and try again.


See if you can gt it to run a full tank through..


If not, then you must clean the carb