This is a very common problem with these engine when gas has been left in them.
It is designed to help clean the carburetor without damaging the diaphrams and rubber parts like regular carburetor cleaner. Click on this site and it will tell you all about it.
This helps sometimes, but other times it does not.and the only solution is to to clean and rebuild the carburetor.
Here is my comprehensive carburetor and fuel answer that may give you some ideas.
As engines sit or get older, fuel that is left in the carburetor can turn to gum and varnish and cause this and other problems. Also, any gasoline that was left in a gas can for a period of more than 30 days must be discarded because it also has begun to turn to varnish.
Today's gasoline's contain MTBE and alcohol. (Ethanol) They turn to "Junk and garbage" very quickly. Alcohol is partially water (H2O). And they call it "Oxygenated fuels! It is the oxygen that breaks down the organic compounds in the fuel and turns the gas to "Garbage" (Gum and varnish) The fuels we had just a few years ago had no alcohol in it and would store for longer periods of time before going stale... and fuel stabilizers do almost nothing to prevent the fuel from going bad with the changes in today's fuels.
Do not buy gas from the "Discount" Stations. The discount stations get a reduced price on gas because they may be buying fuel that is nearly 30 days old already. You may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump when buying from a discount station. Purchase your fuel from the well-known stations such as Shell, BP, Sonoco, Phillips 66 etc.
More than 70% of all of our repairs in our lawn mower business are due to this same issue. You most likely have dirt, gum, varnish...etc in your carburetor plugging up the small passageways and jets in the carburetor.
The carburetor must be removed from the engine. Clean all parts with carburetor cleaner and blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air. Remove all of the non-metallic parts since the carburetor cleaner will cause them to be disfigured decompose and plug the carburetor as time goes on.
Wash the carburetor cleaner off of the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water. Dry them by blowing it off with compressed air. Make sure that all the passageways are blown dry before reassembling.
Reassemble using a NEW carburetor rebuild kit.
DO NOT TRY TO REASSEMBLE WITHOUT USING A COMPLTE CARBURETOR KIT! You will just end up having to do the job again.
ALWAYS clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel line when doing this repair or you may have to do it all over again. The inside of the fuel line disintegrates over time and these small pieces of rubber will plug up the carburetor too. Dirt and water from a dirty fuel tank will also plug up the carburetor. Find the Model, type and serial or code numbers off of the engine and take them to your local dealer to get the carburetor repair kit.
If you do the work yourself, take pictures or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical.
If the carburetor still doesn't work correctly, you may have to take it to someone who has an "Ultra-sonic" cleaning machine. This machine uses carb cleaner and ultrasonic vibrations to get the very small passageways clean when traditional methods fail.
Here is where you can get an inexpensive "Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine"
If you don't feel comfortable with this kind of repair I would suggest sending it to a reputable shop.
Here is a Carburetor rebuild process.
First make sure that you have the correct complete carburetor repair kit.
Now take special care when you take the carburetor apart..to make sure that you watch and remember exactly how the gaskets come off.
Remove the float pin ...it just pushes out...and remove the float..carefully.. so you can see how the float needle is attached...(Some of them have a small wire spring holding it to the float....you will have to reinstall this spring when you reassemble the carburetor.
Remove the float needle
Next...remove the float valve seat. . Look around the carburetor and see if it has a small idle adjustment needle...remove this needle if it has one. You are now done disassembling the carb. DO not take anything else out of the carb.
Get a good carburetor cleaner....preferably with a small hose you can attach to the nozzle of the can. Spray the carb cleaner all over the outside of the carburetor. this will loosen the dirt on the outside while you clean the inside. Now spray the cleaner through every hole, and nook and cranny you can fine on the inside of the carb.
When you are finished with the spray,blow all of the passageway clean with compressed air from an air compressor. Also blow all of the dirt from the outside of the carburetor.
Next. Take the entire carburetor to the kitchen sink......Ok maybe it would be better to get a big bowl...so you don't make your wife mad....and wash the entire carburetor with HOT SOAPY dishwater. This is to make sure that all of the carburetor cleaner is completely washed from the carb...(If it is not, you will deform the new gaskets and such that you install...even if it is dry.) Now rinse in clear watter and then blow the carb dry with the compressed air again.
Reassemble the carb using the identical parts out of the carb kit as you took out. install the float seat, then install the float needle and the float in the same position that you took them out. Check the float level after it is installed. Making sure that when the carb is upside down with the float in the up position, the float should be nearly level with the body of the carburetor. Now reinstall the bowl gaskets the same as you took them off. Then install the bowl nut with the small gasket under it. Reinstall the small idle needle if it had one.
There you are done.
Install the carburetor on the engine and you should be ready to go.
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Here is some information on Mechanic in a Bottle>
Varnished carburetor? Fuel gone bad? Water in the tank & carburetor
causing corrosion from ethanol? “FIX THE UNFIXABLE” Mechanic In A
Bottle removes all varnish in the fuel system without having to remove
the carburetor from the machine. Add to your gasoline and you will be
able to clean varnish and carbon.
• Restore old fuel by separating the hydrocarbon chains that have bonded
together since the fuel has deteriorated. An octane booster is added to
replace the lost octane in the decayed fuel. We do not use any metals in
our formula to increase the octane.
• Remove carbon deposits from combustion chamber components
including the combustion chamber, piston(s), rings and valves.
• Dual lubricants condition the rubber and plastic components. They also
rejuvenate and protect the rubber gaskets and seals that may have been
dried out from ethanol. After the fuel is burned in the combustion
chamber, a synthetic lubricant remains to lubricate the entire upper
combustion chamber, such as piston rings and valves.
No detrimental effects if overdosed.
Poor Running Engine:
Mix 2 ounces of Mechanic In A Bottle (MIB) to1 gallon of fresh gasoline.
Start engine and run for at least 10 minutes. Let engine stand for at least
8 hours before restarting. Continue use of mixed MIB fuel until gone. Use
Ethanol Shield all the time to prevent fuel related problems.
Non Running Engine:
Add 4 ounces of Mechanic In A Bottle (MIB) into an empty fuel tank and
prime the MIB through the fuel system into the carburetor. Wait at least 8
hours before draining contaminated MIB from the fuel system and
adding fresh fuel mixed 2 ounces MIB to 1 gallon of fresh gasoline.
Severely contaminated fuel systems let stand overnight or repeat if
Mix 1 ounce of MIB to 5 gallons of gasoline.
This is a fuel additive not a replacement for 2 cycle oil.
The “Fix” for Poor / Non-Running Engines
I thought the detail in my question made this clear. I know the carburetor needs to be rebuilt and I need to get the parts to do it. My problem is that I cannot identify the parts I need to do it. My question is how to identify the source for a kit, or in the alternative, for the complete carburetor.
I was not understanding that
I might be able to look at some Pictures of your engine and then also of the carburetor and tell you what you need to know
If you can send thise pictures to me I will try.
the numbers that you sned do NOT tell me which engine this is.
Can't you determine that from the numbers on the Coleman and Briggs numbers I sent?
Ok, sorry, didn't see the last line.
Colman does not publish which engien they use n the generator.
The Briggs numbers do not tell me anything.
I was afraid of that.
The numbers that I would need would be listed Like this.
190902 0015-01 (NNN) NNN-NNNN/p>
Obviously these are NOT the correct numbers, but they would show you what they should look like.
Model Type Code
Is thei a L-head engine or an Overhead valve engine.
Yeesh, There isn't anything like that anywhere on it. There is a number on the carburetor 215389 but I wouldn't expect that to help.
no it doesn't
I suspect a casting ID number.
is this an overhead valve engine"
or an L-head engine
Valves in the head with rocker arms on top. or valves in the cylinder block
I can't take any pictures right now, problem is that I was trying to get this thing going soon. OHV.
Definitely OHV, has a cover over the rockers with OHV in it.
If it is an overhead valve engine.... the numbers will be engraved into the overhead valve cover on the side
I took the cover off, definitely OHV.
I can go look again.
Once you get these numbers we can find the correct carb parts
or even the new carb.
120412 0137 E2
I am not sure what the first set of number are, but the 120412 is the mnodel number and the 0137-E2 is the type number.
Give me a minute and I wll get you a parts list and an repair manual.
Here is the parts list. http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=Briggs+and+Stratton&mn=120412-0137-E2
Here is the service manual
Briggs & stratton Single cylinder OHV service manual
That should help you.
Here is the breakdown of the carburetor and the carb kits that are availalble.http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=120412-0137-E2&dn=62170005B
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