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James W
James W, Small Engine Troubleshooting Expert
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 3700
Experience:  7 years as Mechanic & Parts Manager for Brother who has Owned Lawn & Garden Repair shop for 35 years
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Ultra by Murray mini-tiller with Tecumseh TCII / TC200

Resolved Question:

I have a Ultra by Murray mini-tiller with Tecumseh TCII / TC200 engine. The plastic throttle/choke lever (used to control choke and speed) broke off. It is a Walbro carb.  Where can I get a replacement? Also, it's several years old, what should I think about when cleaning/de-sticking the carb etc to get it running well again?
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Small Engine
Expert:  James W replied 3 years ago.

The closest I can come to your model number is XXXXX

11052x6C

 

Let me know if this is your unit

 

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/murray-11052x6c-2001-cultivator-parts-c-17887_17985_21005.html?osCsid=43v3pq0nb3dr4qlfecgvbp4rm0

 

Or correct me with the model number without missing digits.

 

In order to help, I will need the model number, type number, and spec number off the engine itself.

As you can see, the model number of the tiller does not help to identify engine or carburetor parts.

 

As soon as we get these numbers, we can proceed.

 

I am looking for One of these numbers

 

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mh=19,25

 

Or, you can find the number yourself and click on it.

 

When you get to the engine next screen, do not click on the engine parts list, but rather click on the CA-6XXXXX Number.

 

This will give you a breakdown of the carburetor.

 

You can get the part numbers there.



Edited by James W on 2/8/2011 at 8:30 AM EST
Expert:  James W replied 3 years ago.

As far as getting the ting running, if your believe that you have a dirty carburetor, here is some general advice.

 

Most likely you have a fuel delivery or fuel quality problem.

 

As engines sit or get older, fuel that is left in the carburetor can turn to gum and varnish and cause this and other problems.

Also, any gasoline that was left in a gas can for a period of more than 30 days must be discarded because it also has begun to turn to varnish.

 

Today's gasolines contain MTBE and alcohol. (Ethanol) They turn to "Junk and garbage" very quickly. Alcohol absorbs water. And they call it "Oxygenated fuels! It is the oxygen (and the water) that breaks down the organic compounds in the fuel and turns the gas to "Garbage" (Gum and varnish) The fuels we had just a few years ago had no alcohol in it and would store for longer periods of time before going stale.

Fuel stabilizers do almost nothing to prevent the fuel from going bad with the changes in today's fuels. The whole point of a fuel stabilizer is to form an oily film on the surface of stored gasoline whether in the tank or in a gas can. The idea was to keep oxygen away from the gasoline to prevent breakdown. Since the fuel is already oxygenated, the fuel stabilizer concept is null and void. These fuels start to degrade immediately upon the addition of the ethanol.

.

Do not buy gas from the "Discount" Stations. The discount stations get a reduced price on gas because they may be buying fuel that is nearly 30 days old already. You may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump when buying from a discount station. Purchase your fuel from the well-known stations such as Shell, BP, Sonoco, Phillips 66 etc.

More than 70% of all of our repairs in our small engine repair business are due to these same issues. You most likely have dirt, gum, varnish...etc in your carburetor plugging up the small passageways and jets in the carburetor.

 

The carburetor will need to be cleaned and overhauled as well as the rest of the fuel system.

 

  • If you plan to do the work yourself, take pictures with your digital camera or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical.
  • Remove the carburetor from the engine.
  • Remove all of the non-metallic parts since the carburetor cleaner will cause them to be disfigured decompose and plug the carburetor as time goes on.
  • Clean all parts with carburetor cleaner.
  • Blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air.
  • Use a tiny stiff wire such as is found on the twist tie on a loaf of bread or on a garbage bag to open all tiny passageways found in the carburetor such as in the screw, nut, or jet holding the bowl of the carburetor on (if it has a bowl). Make sure to look for tiny holes in the bottom and side threads of the bowl nut or nozzle a make sure they are clear with the wire.
  • Wash the carburetor cleaner off of the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water.
  • Dry all carburetor parts by blowing it off with compressed air.
  • Make sure that all the passageways are blown dry before reassembling (you do not want water back in the carburetor).
  • Reassemble the carburetor using a NEW carburetor rebuild kit.
  • NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO REASSEMBLE WITHOUT USING A COMPLETE CARBURETOR KIT! You will just end up having to do the job again.
  • Find the Model, type and serial or code numbers off of the engine and take them to your local dealer to get the carburetor repair kit.
  • ALWAYS clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel line when doing this repair or you may have to do it all over again. The inside of the fuel line disintegrates over time and these small pieces of rubber will plug up the carburetor too. Dirt and water from a dirty fuel tank will also plug up the carburetor. If this happens, you will be starting over again from the top.

In an Emergency such as a blizzard where you cannot get out to buy a carburetor kit until the plows come through, or during an emergency power outage and you need a generator running even if it runs poorly, you might try the following if your carburetor is the type that has a bowl. Sometimes this procedure works:

While the carburetor is still mounted to the engine:

  • Pinch the fuel line with a pair of vice grips to stop the fuel from going to the carburetor.
  • Remove the bowl nut (or nozzle from the bottom of the carburetor and let the fuel drain from the bowl.
  • Carefully remove the bowl from the carburetor without letting the needle and seat and float fall out of position (if it does, no big deal, but you will have to reassemble it, which is harder with the carburetor on the unit).
  • Dump all of the Gunk out of the bowl and put the bowl back into position.
  • Use a tiny stiff wire such as is found on the twist tie on a loaf of bread or on a garbage bag to open all tiny holes in the screw, bowl nut, or nozzle that was holding the bowl of the carburetor on (if it has a bowl). Make sure to look for tiny holes in the bottom and side threads of the bowl nut or nozzle a make sure they are clear with the wire.
  • Reassemble and see if you got lucky.

You may be able to finish the job at hand then clean and overhaul the carburetor correctly when you have more time and a new carburetor overhaul kit.

 

If you don't feel comfortable with these kinds of repairs, or if the carburetor still doesn't work correctly after your attempt, I would suggest sending it to a profession repair shop with a reputation for having friendly, knowledgeable, experienced service technicians. It would be best to take it to someone who has an "Ultra-sonic" cleaning machine. This machine uses a very mild carburetor cleaner in concert with ultrasonic vibrations to get the very small passageways clean. This method is very effective even when traditional methods fail.

Please feel free to ask follow-up questions so that we can always arrive at the correct solution. We want you to be 100% satisfied.

 

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Expert:  James W replied 3 years ago.

note: in the first post, I said click on the CA-6XXXXX number, but it might also say TEC-6XXXXX instead. Then you click on the word Carburetor to see the breakdown.

 



Edited by James W on 2/8/2011 at 8:35 AM EST
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Hey - thanks for the lead - it's a Tecumseh TC200 2102C. See http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=TC200-2102C&dn=ETC2100112102C-EN . The part I'm after is the little lever that you can see protruding from the left side of the fuel tank (which is part number 300). It's the choke lever (at least I assume that's what it's called) - depending on its position it covers/uncovers the air intake between the air filter and the carb. Where do I get just that part?
Expert:  James W replied 3 years ago.

I am checking with a company named www.oldmowerparts.com

They specialize in getting parts that are hard to get.

 

Tecumseh went out of business regarding engine and parts production in the US.

 

There now is a company putting their name on a few model engines made in china, but that does not help existing owners get parts.

 

My first recollection is that the part you are requesting may not be available any more except for buying a whole carburetor assembly.

 

I am checking two things. Does my memory serve me correctly, and does www.oldmowerparts.com have what you need.

 

You may even contact them directly giving them all the same information that we have been sharing including the link to our QA session on just answers.

 

We may be able to reel this in, but understand, even though this seems to be a straightforward request, it is not.

 

In fact, you did not see the part on any of the diagrams, did you (other than hiding behind the gas tank).

 

I also want to check to see if MAYBE, the part is Part of the gas tank.

 

Do you think that is possible? Is it fastened to the tank, or does it float with the carb?

 

BTW, you can contact them at info@oldmowerparts.com

James W, Small Engine Troubleshooting Expert
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 3700
Experience: 7 years as Mechanic & Parts Manager for Brother who has Owned Lawn & Garden Repair shop for 35 years
James W and 4 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I believe it may be part of the tank - the lever snaps into the plastic housing/structural members of the tank. The carb fits to the engine, and the tank bolts on over the carb, with the choke lever controlling airflow. If it's part of the tank assembly, which looks like $40, that's more than I'm willing to spend on this old thing. I'll probably just see if I can rig up something to move the choke lever without removing the air cleaner.

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