Just let me know when you can and we'll continue.
If you are getting gas in the sump, the usual cause is a bad needle and seat in the carburetor. Replace those items and check the float as well. If you shake the float and hear liquid inside, the float is bad and will need to be changed. Otherwise, just the needle and seat.
Check the air filter. If there's oil contamination, change the air filter and clean the air filter box and breather as well as you can. Change the oil and oil filter is equipped and you should be back in good shape. This type of problem rarely causes any engine damage.
Hope this helps! Keep me posted. Let me know if the starter dragging doesn't go away. I suspect it's because the sump is overfilled.
Here's the parts you will need on your engine.
Without inspecting the carburetor I cannot tell you for sure, but I will say that with today's gas carburetor repairs are the number one thing we see by far, so based on the odds rather than specifics I would clean and rebuild while I was there as a good insurance policy. I'd also recommend a can of Sea Foam (available at Walmart) mixed with the gas according to label directions. It will help stabilize the fuel and clean the fuel system. It's a great product, and no my brother-in-law doesn't work for them.
As for the starter dragging, try it with the spark plug removed. It it spins over properly then compression is the culprit. (Otherwise a starter problem - battery, cables, starter, etc.) While it may be a faulty compression release, most often a valve adjustment does the trick. That's where my money is based on the odds, so let's try a valve adjustment first.Intake - .003"/.005"Exhaust - .005"/.007"The setting should be done on a cold engine with the piston 1/4" past top dead center on the compression stroke.Here's some additional information that shows the process in detail. Scroll down to the bottom of the page to where it talks about adjustments. It will link to some helpful pictures as well. If there's anything you're not clear on, please let me know.Valve InfoHope this is helpful! Let me know...
Betcha thought I forgot, huh? Here's the procedure and the part numbers for the tools on the seat. A smart fellow like you can probably improvise the removal now that you see how its done. We've always use a self-tapping 1/4-20 hex-head screw. The installation tool is listed below as well. If you have a friendly local shop they might even be willing to loan you one.