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Doug E.
Doug E. , Kawasaki Master Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 2886
Experience:  Professional mechanic since the late 70's on Kawasaki, Arctic Cat, Jonsered, John Deere and others.
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I can not find a belt diagram for my John Deere 112. I can

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I can not find a belt diagram for my John Deere 112. I can not figure out how to route the belt from engine to rear end.
Deck or motion belt?
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

I would guess drive belt or Motion. I don't have a deck for it yet. Thanks.

I'm afraid I don't have the motion belt diagram. So I'll open it up to the other experts. Hopefully, one of them will have it. Best of luck...
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
ok thanks
Your very welcome. If JR comes online he should be able to assist. He's a really good Deere guy.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Ok Sounds good.

Could you tell me the approximate year of your machine? John Deere started repeating the model numbers, so 112 has been used in three totally different machines. Thanks.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Hey sorry about that. I should have posted that. The sn is 309756. So, I believe that would make it a 74.





That's the same one I have at home! You should have a Kohler motor with a variator drive belt system then.

Are you replacing both belts?


P.S. I can shoot some photos of the routing if you need it, but I wouldn't be able to do that until I get home later. I can describe how to change one or both belts.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Doug, That is fantastic. This tractor was in very bad shape when I got it. It was going to be thrown out! I put new coil, points, plug, wires, and it fired right up. Pics would be great. I am a very "visual" person. It is starting to make sense now. Two belts required! I have a manual arriving today from deerelydeparted. I will also pick up the correct belts from the local JD store for I have been hearing that 3rd party belts are not the best fit.


Thanks allot!



The stock belts last many many years. I have also made some "mods" to the machine that I will photograph. I cut the turning radius by extending the steering arm and I increased the mower deck speed by changing the top pulley size. It cut down my mowing time by a great deal being able to cut tighter corners and having a higher blade speed.

I will post photos when I get home tonight for you on all of this.

To change the belts you will need the mower deck off and mower drive belt off. Remove the front arm for the PTO so the belt will slide over the pulley and off. Push in the clutch and use a rope or tie down strap to hold the pedal down. Don't skimp here because that bugger has enough force to crush your hand if it lets go and you are in the way.

On the rear pulley you have to unbolt the three bolts that hold the pulley to the flange on the rear end. It looks like the belt will go, but it will not. Loosen these bolts before you push in the clutch so there is some drag on the pulley.

You push in the clutch to replace the one belt and let it out to replace the other. The variator sheave in the middle should slide side to side to assist you getting enough slack. If it doesn't spin and slide smoothly, hit the center with some silicone spray to lubricate the bushing. I end up doing this a couple of times a year because I mow in very sandy conditions and it tends to stick now and then. It won't shift speeds if it doesn't move.

I'll post some photos later to go with that description.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.



Thanks Allot,



OK, here are some photos. I don't wash my mower often, so forgive the condition. I rebuilt it from the ground up about 20 years ago and haven't done anything to it since except change oil.


This is the steering mod. Add 1" to the steering box arm where it attaches to the arm going to the axle spindle. This cuts your turning radius by at least a foot! Any longer and the deck will hit it.


This shows the deck mod and rear belt routing. To mod the deck, grind the rivets out of the top pulley and weld a smaller pulley on top. This will increase the blade RPM to that close to what a new model turns at. It makes a huge difference in cutting quality and speed. I did this about 20 years ago, so no worries about it wearing out other parts.

The rear pulley on the axle housing is what you need to unbolt so the belt fits over it. The pulley just in front of that is your idler pulley that moves when you push in the clutch pedal. The belt goes around the rear and under the idler. Route both upper and lower sections of the belt above the belt guide and around the variator pulley.

I'll be right back with more photos.

Doug E., Kawasaki Master Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 2886
Experience: Professional mechanic since the late 70's on Kawasaki, Arctic Cat, Jonsered, John Deere and others.
Doug E. and other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
This photo shows the variator when looking from the front of the machine. My front pulley photo was fuzzy, but I think that's pretty cut and dry. There is a peg that is used as a belt guide. Be sure the belt is inside of this and you are good to go.

The trick to the belts is to use the clutch pedal and variator level to move the pulley forward and rearward so you can just slip the belts on. If the center sheave on the variator slides too far over, you will have trouble putting the belt on so try and keep it in the center. It helps to have someone on the machine to move the levers while you put the belts on.

I hope that is enough information. If not, let me know and I'll shoot some more photos in the morning. Just tell me what you need to see more of.



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