Most likely the problem is that the carburetor is restricted due to fuel being left in if for too long. If this is not the problem, I will be glad to discuss it with you futher.
Here is my carburetor answer.
As engines sit or get older, fuel that is left in the carburetor can turn to gum and varnish and cause this and other problems. Also, any gasoline that was left in a gas can for a period of more than 30 days must be discarded because it also has begun to turn to varnish.
Today's gasolines contain MTBE and alcohol. (Ethanol) They turn to "Junk and garbage" very quickly. Alcohol is partially water (H2O). And they call it "Oxygenated fuels! It is the oxygen that breaks down the organic compounds in the fuel and turns the gas to "Garbage" (Gum and varnish) The fuels we had just a few years ago had no alcohol in it and would store for longer periods of time before going stale... and fuel stabilizers do almost nothing to prevent the fuel from going bad with the changes in today's fuels
Do not buy gas from the "Discount" Stations. The discount stations get a reduced price on gas because they may be buying fuel that is nearly 30 days old already. You may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump when buying from a discount station. Purchase your fuel from the well-known stations such as Shell, BP, Sonoco, Phillips 66 etc.
More than 70% of all of our repairs in our lawn mower business are due to this same issue. You most likely have dirt, gum, varnish...etc in your carburetor plugging up the small passageways and jets in the carburetor.
The carburetor must be removed from the engine. Clean all parts with carburetor cleaner and blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air. Remove all of the non-metallic parts since the carburetor cleaner will cause them to be disfigured decompose and plug the carburetor as time goes on.
Wash the carburetor cleaner off of the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water. Dry them by blowing it off with compressed air. Make sure that all the passageways are blown dry before reassembling.
Reassemble using a NEW carburetor rebuild kit.
DO NOT TRY TO REASSEMBLE WITHOUT USING A COMPLTE CARBURETOR KIT! You will just end up having to do the job again.
ALWAYS clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel line when doing this repair or you may have to do it all over again. The inside of the fuel line disintegrates over time and these small pieces of rubber will plug up the carburetor too. Dirt and water from a dirty fuel tank will also plug up the carburetor. Find the Model, type and serial or code numbers off of the engine and take them to your local dealer to get the carburetor repair kit.
If you do the work yourself, take pictures or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical.
If the carburetor still doesn't work correctly, you may have to take it to someone who has an "Ultra-sonic" cleaning machine. This machine uses carb cleaner and ultrasonic vibrations to get the very small passageways clean when traditional methods fail.
If you don't feel comfortable with this kind of repair I would suggest sending it to a reputable shop.
You really only have three cncepts here.
1.Spark, You said it had spark.
2. Fuel, You said there was fuel in the carb, but that doesn't mean that the fuel is getting THROUGH the carb into the engine.
3. Compression. You will have to do a compression test to amke sure it has enough compression.
Of all the items, listed above, I still think more highly of the carburetor issue.
See if it will fire if you squirt some gas in the carburetor and/or the spark plug hole. IF it fires doing either , then the carburetor is really the problem.
You don't want the compression to be the problem because that would mean a major repair and is uaually not the problem
Let me know what you find. Especially with the compression reading. You must use a compression tester.
Then you pretty much have to start over.
First of all I hate those Chineese engines, they never seem to work right.
Ok, Lets start over.
1. Remove the sires that go to the ignition module. This allows you to find out if the ignition module is working or if the saftey switches could be causing a problem.
IF you are not getting a VERY BRIGHT spark, then it is possible that the ignition is the problem. IF your ignition tester is the kind that make a light show up inside the glass bulb,...those do not tell you how strong of spark you have and it will light up with even the slightest amount of spark...even a spark that cannot fire a spark plug. You might want to take it to a good shop and ask them to use one of their testers to check the spark. It should only tak a minute or two and they may do it for free or at least for a very small charge. Then you might know for sure if the ignition is working correctly.
2.Make sure that you get a good compression guage and test the compression. Low compression will cause this problem.
3. Check the flywheel key and see if it might be sheared. This will through the ignition timing off.
4. valve adjustments could be part of the problem..Set the valves at .004" between the rocker arms and the valve stem when the valves are completely closed.
It is the ignition coil It has the spark plug wire comming out of it.
if i pull the wire how will i test i just wont get spark if i pull the wires
DO not pull the spark plug wire, just the shut-off wire.
That is unless this is a BATTERY ignition instead of a magnetto ignition.
BAttery ignitions are not common on these, BAttery ignition does not mean "Electric start" it means using the battery to create the spark.
Magnetto ignition means it has a flywheel with magnets on it that turn past the ignition coil to produce the spark.
I forgot to tell you that in order to do this you will have to take the engine cover off to get to the ignition coil.